how to demagnatize the roof
Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,601
Likes: 2
From: Orange City, FL
LMFAO it's not magentized man, if it were you'd be attracting other cars to the roof, what u needa to is callobrate the OHC. I know Griggs has it on his site, but you have to hold in the middle button I tihnk til it starts blinking then drive around in a circle VERY slowly to let it callobarte where it's going.
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 434
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From: Shelby Twp, MI
you also have to pick which zone you are in also, theres a number that shows up, and you have to keep click in the middle button until you get it right, if I remember correctly, I dont' think griggs don't have all the zone number/areas on there..
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From: Romeoville, IL
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From: Delaware
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Orange City, FL
Originally Posted by gatorblue92
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From: Exit 105 New Jersey
Originally Posted by gatorblue92
You funny man Bill.
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,123
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From: McKinney, TX
for the IP Challenged.
By: Jared Chase (aka Jrod, Member of Generation-Edge.com)
Introduction:
The installation of an overhead console is a very popular modification that many people choose to do on their Rangers. Probably the hardest part of the whole installation is being able to find one. The best places to check are junkyards, E-Bay, and forums. Make sure to get all the necessary hardware; this will include wiring harness (a must), mounting bracket, temp sensor, and of course the overhead console. This is not really all that difficult but I can't stress enough the importance of taking your time. Many people say it took them 2 or so hours but it took me more around 10 hours.
Supplies:
3-way tap connectors
Butt splice connectors
Primary wire (I used 18 gauge for all wires except the power wire, I used 12 gauge for the power wire) I also recommend getting many different colors, it will help you keep organized
Razor Blade
Chalk
12 V Light tester
Preparation, Removal of interior trim & headliner:
Hold the overhead console up to the headliner where you wish to cut the headliner at and where to mount your OHC. I also got the piece of the headliner out of the Explorer around the OHC so I would have a template, if you have the chance try and get this. If you don't you can also cut a piece of cardboard out and use it as a template. I marked the area with chalk of where I was going to cut. Photo 2
Remove A-Pillar molding Photo 3
Remove Sun Visors
Remove Oh $#@! Handles on passenger side
Remove dome light case
Remove clothes hanger holder
Remove the rear top interior panel retainers Photo 4
Remove seat belt (Optional)
The headliner should be able to come out now. Don't force anything; it should come out pretty easy.
Wiring:
Quick Wiring Tip For Starters
I accessed the firewall by using an unfolded hanger as a fish tape. Located the grommet nearest the emergency brake (which is where I describe 2 lines (bullets) down). Placed the unfolded hanger up against the cable that runs through the grommet and pushed the hanger through. It will come out into the engine compartment under the brake master cylinder. Attach your power wire to the unfolded hanger with some tape and pull it into the cab.
Red/Blue - Dimmer Switch
This wire was tapped into the wire that controls the brightness of your radio, gauges, etc. This wire is located behind your dimmer switch.
Blue/Yellow: Blue/White - Temp Sensor
This wire was ran through the rubber grommet near the brake and ran to the front bumper where I mounted the Temp Sensor.
Black - Ground
Choose pretty much anywhere you prefer, I put it on the roof where the hole was drilled to secure the bracket.
Gray/Black - Vehicle Speed Sensor
I capped this wire off, It's supposed to compensate for wind chill but I don't have mine hooked up and it does just fine.
Black/Blue: Green/Orange - Dome Lights
These wires can go straight back to your dome lamps, The wires will match up. Just tap into those wires.
Yellow/Gray - Fuse & Power
I tapped into fuse #12 - It's a Light Green with Purple Stripe wire. I then ran the wire into my kick panel, connected a 30-amp in-line fuse, and ran the other end of the wire to the console.
Another Wiring Tip
See this Wiring Topic in the General Electrical Forum on help for the (Dimmer Switch Wire) & (Fuse & Power Wire). Also has some helpful dash removal steps to get to these wires.
Instructions:
1. Now that you have the headliner out, make sure you have got everything lined up and marked the way you want to cut it. Start to cut the headliner in the area where you marked it with the chalk. Make small cuts, put the bracket & OHC up to the cut until you got it to the size you want. Make sure not to make the hole too big, you can always take some out but you cant put it back in.
2. Before putting the headliner back in, you are going to need to put the bracket up to the roof where you are going to mount it. You are going to have to drill 2 holes into the roof. Put a board behind where you are going to drill so you don't drill through both ends. Secure the bracket with 2 bolts.
3. You are going to need to make 2 slits in the roof where the tabs of the OHC are located, so they will be able to be pushed up into the roof and secured. Mark the slits and use a Dremel tool to cut the slots.
4. You can now test the unit to make sure everything runs correctly, Make sure the OHC fits, the display turn on. Don't worry if the compass or temp are incorrect right now, you can most likely fix the wiring on that later.
5. Double check all your wiring, it's much easier to change something up now than to do it later when the headliner is on.
6. Put headliner back in place, secure the OHC into the brackets by screwing it in, Replace all the interior trim you took off. You should be finished.
By: Jared Chase (aka Jrod, Member of Generation-Edge.com)
Introduction:
The installation of an overhead console is a very popular modification that many people choose to do on their Rangers. Probably the hardest part of the whole installation is being able to find one. The best places to check are junkyards, E-Bay, and forums. Make sure to get all the necessary hardware; this will include wiring harness (a must), mounting bracket, temp sensor, and of course the overhead console. This is not really all that difficult but I can't stress enough the importance of taking your time. Many people say it took them 2 or so hours but it took me more around 10 hours.
Supplies:
3-way tap connectors
Butt splice connectors
Primary wire (I used 18 gauge for all wires except the power wire, I used 12 gauge for the power wire) I also recommend getting many different colors, it will help you keep organized
Razor Blade
Chalk
12 V Light tester
Preparation, Removal of interior trim & headliner:
Hold the overhead console up to the headliner where you wish to cut the headliner at and where to mount your OHC. I also got the piece of the headliner out of the Explorer around the OHC so I would have a template, if you have the chance try and get this. If you don't you can also cut a piece of cardboard out and use it as a template. I marked the area with chalk of where I was going to cut. Photo 2
Remove A-Pillar molding Photo 3
Remove Sun Visors
Remove Oh $#@! Handles on passenger side
Remove dome light case
Remove clothes hanger holder
Remove the rear top interior panel retainers Photo 4
Remove seat belt (Optional)
The headliner should be able to come out now. Don't force anything; it should come out pretty easy.
Wiring:
Quick Wiring Tip For Starters
I accessed the firewall by using an unfolded hanger as a fish tape. Located the grommet nearest the emergency brake (which is where I describe 2 lines (bullets) down). Placed the unfolded hanger up against the cable that runs through the grommet and pushed the hanger through. It will come out into the engine compartment under the brake master cylinder. Attach your power wire to the unfolded hanger with some tape and pull it into the cab.
Red/Blue - Dimmer Switch
This wire was tapped into the wire that controls the brightness of your radio, gauges, etc. This wire is located behind your dimmer switch.
Blue/Yellow: Blue/White - Temp Sensor
This wire was ran through the rubber grommet near the brake and ran to the front bumper where I mounted the Temp Sensor.
Black - Ground
Choose pretty much anywhere you prefer, I put it on the roof where the hole was drilled to secure the bracket.
Gray/Black - Vehicle Speed Sensor
I capped this wire off, It's supposed to compensate for wind chill but I don't have mine hooked up and it does just fine.
Black/Blue: Green/Orange - Dome Lights
These wires can go straight back to your dome lamps, The wires will match up. Just tap into those wires.
Yellow/Gray - Fuse & Power
I tapped into fuse #12 - It's a Light Green with Purple Stripe wire. I then ran the wire into my kick panel, connected a 30-amp in-line fuse, and ran the other end of the wire to the console.
Another Wiring Tip
See this Wiring Topic in the General Electrical Forum on help for the (Dimmer Switch Wire) & (Fuse & Power Wire). Also has some helpful dash removal steps to get to these wires.
Instructions:
1. Now that you have the headliner out, make sure you have got everything lined up and marked the way you want to cut it. Start to cut the headliner in the area where you marked it with the chalk. Make small cuts, put the bracket & OHC up to the cut until you got it to the size you want. Make sure not to make the hole too big, you can always take some out but you cant put it back in.
2. Before putting the headliner back in, you are going to need to put the bracket up to the roof where you are going to mount it. You are going to have to drill 2 holes into the roof. Put a board behind where you are going to drill so you don't drill through both ends. Secure the bracket with 2 bolts.
3. You are going to need to make 2 slits in the roof where the tabs of the OHC are located, so they will be able to be pushed up into the roof and secured. Mark the slits and use a Dremel tool to cut the slots.
4. You can now test the unit to make sure everything runs correctly, Make sure the OHC fits, the display turn on. Don't worry if the compass or temp are incorrect right now, you can most likely fix the wiring on that later.
5. Double check all your wiring, it's much easier to change something up now than to do it later when the headliner is on.
6. Put headliner back in place, secure the OHC into the brackets by screwing it in, Replace all the interior trim you took off. You should be finished.
Unregistered User
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I gotta admit, I love it when my ISP changes my IP address. Now I'm no longer banned. And I have enough BS email ID's out there that J Allen would never know if I signed back up or not. But, I have no desire to be a part of a site in which the owner refuses to admit when he's wrong, and apparently doesn't punish his roommate when he violates the rules, yet raises a stink when others do.
RF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 10,623
Likes: 6
From: Kennett Square, PA
DON'T follow those install instructions from the old Gen-Edge!!! There is no need to remove the headliner to do this.
Also note that you don't need a big fuse or wiring for power -- the OHC electronics only draw about 1/4 amp of power.
The zone setting and doing the calibrations is critical to it working correctly. In fact, the OHC can compensate for vehicle magnetization (which is generally mild unless you've been hanging around some very unusual places or been hit by lightning). It does this during the calibration process when you drive in a circle.
The instructions for zone setting and calibration are, of course, to be found in the Explorer owners manuals -- which can often be found online.
Also note that you don't need a big fuse or wiring for power -- the OHC electronics only draw about 1/4 amp of power.
The zone setting and doing the calibrations is critical to it working correctly. In fact, the OHC can compensate for vehicle magnetization (which is generally mild unless you've been hanging around some very unusual places or been hit by lightning). It does this during the calibration process when you drive in a circle.
The instructions for zone setting and calibration are, of course, to be found in the Explorer owners manuals -- which can often be found online.
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