Seat problem - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Interior Semi-Tech General discussion of interior for the Ford Ranger.

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Old 02-23-2007
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Seat problem

I've got a 2000 Supercab 4x4 with manual seats. The lever on the side of the seat (to recline or tilt the back) has broken off on the driver's side, thanks to my 4 year old using it as a step. I almost fainted when the dealer said I couldn't order that part and had to buy the whole damn mechanism, about $160. Given the passenger side is broke also, That's over $300 I'm not about to spend on this thing. I'd honestly rather buy a new truck, given some of the other problems I'm facing with it (poor gas mileage, running rough, front end screwed up). I'm at a point in general with the truck I'm ready to pour gas on the truck, grab a beer and have my own version of the Burning Man festival. The hendle itself is fine. Its the plastic part the handle snaps onto that broke. I've called the local junk yards and no luck finding some junk seats I can use for parts. Yeah, there's ebay but with shipping, I might as well fix one seat at a time and get raped at the Ford dealer. I can actually remember when Rangers weren't built so cheap and were a decent truck.

Yeah, that last comment may be viewed as heracy, but I've had mostly bad luck with this truck in the 6 months I've had it.
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Old 02-23-2007
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Damn dude...I just has a set of seats that I tossed in a dumpster. I got some new seats cuz mine were wore out. All the stuff on the underside was fine. Man if you were a week or so sooner!!!!
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Old 02-23-2007
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I noticed the broken handle yesterday afternoon. Its happened since Monday.
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Old 02-23-2007
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I've got a set in my attic, sitting in plastic zip-loc baggies along with all their respective parts and fasteners, labeled individually for both sides.

What's funny? The handle comes off the adjustment mechanism with one measly clip! Ford tried to sell you the whole mechanism!? What goofs!

Either head to a junk yard and find a set, or let me know and I'll send you mine. Either way you won't spend more than $20 getting this fixed!

What's wrong with the front end? What other symptoms go with the rough running? These problems that have gotten you so down about the truck can be easily fixed with a 6 pack of beer and a little time in the garage!
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Old 02-23-2007
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the handle is seperate, but still 44 apiece. could probably haggle to 35 though.
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Old 02-23-2007
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I don't need the handles. OK, I'm missing one on the passenger side but I can "borrow" that part from a friend's truck. THe piece that the handle clips onto is what is broke. It snapped off with the handle still attached. I'll post a pic tonight.
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Old 02-23-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Needforspeed3685
[B]What's wrong with the front end? What other symptoms go with the rough running? These problems that have gotten you so down about the truck can be easily fixed with a 6 pack of beer and a little time in the garage!
Last fall, we put new rotors & pads on it. (It was squeeling and grinding away as you'd stop, normal indicators your brakes are fubar'd and time for new ones.) A month later we put new tires on it. Not long after that, I started noticing, for lack of a better word, a roaring coming from the front end while stopping and a bit of a gyration as it comes to a stop, kinda like driving over a rumble strip. Part of it is probably tire noise, as it is an agressive tread pattern. The gyration is what concerns me. Plus the fact that the noises coming from the front end sound similar to when the brakes were shot, but no squeeling. It stops fine and doesn't pull. If the brakes are shot again, which they shouldn't be, what is making them do it? First step is to climb underneath and pull the wheels off, which will have to wait til a warm dry day.

As for the rest of the headaches, it idles rough & gets bad gas mileage, even for this time of the year (10-12 mpg in town, 14-16 highway.) It used to be around 15 in town and 20 highway. We put new plugs & wires in it last fall, but it didn'thelp the running. I've been advised in other threads some things to look at for that, but it will also have to wait til warmer weather. I'm just frustrated.
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Old 02-23-2007
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I know what you're talking about on the seats. I don't have a picture of it, though.

Ya know...the weather doesn't have to be warm to stick a socket wrench with a 10mm socket onto the TWO bolts that hold the Idle Air Control valve onto the throttle body and disconnect the wire connector. All of that takes less time than it does for your hands to get numb!

Also, have you checked or replaced your wheel bearings lately?
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Old 02-23-2007
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The wheel bearings haven't been replaced since I've had it. Don't know about its prior history, maintenance wise. I bought it last summer w/ 57k miles. It has 63k now.

What will unhooking the air idle control valve do? or should it just be removed? On an unrelated note, it does have a new air filter (last fall when we did the work to it) and probably could use a new fuel filter. I've had a few times where it won't stay running when you take your foot off the gas and is hard to start. Its only done that 2-3 times.

I figure one Saturday I can change the plugs (or at least check them), check the tires & brakes. if I don't find anything, I've got a decent warranty with fairly low deductible. Unfortunately, I'm not a mechanic beyond normal changing oil and really don't know what all to look for. As a test of road noise, I could always swap wheels with our Explorer and see what all that changes. They're the same tire & rim size.
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Old 02-23-2007
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The IAC valve controls the amount of air entering the engine at idle. If it's fouled or stuck it will cause a rough idle condition. Remove it and spray it out with carburetor cleaner and reinstall it, making sure to position the gasket properly.

If you recently changed your air filter, check the intake tube sensors, which includes the MAF and IAT. Ensure both of the electrical connectors are secure and not corroded.
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