Hello everyone, Dave from Fl
I am replacing The cylinder heads on my 3.0L, 2000 Ranger XLT. It has 170,000 miles on it. The heads were warped so I’m just replacing both of them. The reason for the overheating was the water pump. It lost all of its fins and was no longer moving water. I purchased a new water pump, a new timing chain cover, (which had a hole in it from the w/p) new timing chain and sprocket, 2 new heads, head gasket set. How important would it be to replace the cam and lifters? There seems to be no end as to what you keep replacing.
Thanks Dave
Thanks Dave
Hello Dave.
Cam will/should be OK, bottom end is meant to last at least 300k.
If the lifters are not noisy and the oil has been changed at regular intervals, then leave the original ones.
You can carefully take the old ones apart and clean them, but if your time is worth anything to you, it would be easier to buy a new set.
They get varnished up and they have a tendency to stick, mine were so bad I couldn't even get them apart with out heating them up with an oxy/acetylene torch.
Just be sure and get the right head gasket set, there's a left and right/top up.
The two large water ports at the front of the block are blocked off when the head gaskets are installed correctly and the correct ones are used.
This forces the coolant to the back of the engine so it will circulate properly.
You will also need some new TTY bolts.
Yours is a 2000, so it will have the longer thinner bolts.
The threads in the block will be recessed.
When installing the heads, remember to lubricate the thread holes and bolts.
Leave the gaskets in the package until you're ready to install them.
Also replace the front oil seal as well.
If the shaft surface is badly grooved where the seal rides on it, then a sleeve is available.
Be carful when you remove the timing cover not to damage the oil pan gasket.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech..._0-build.shtml
Cam will/should be OK, bottom end is meant to last at least 300k.
If the lifters are not noisy and the oil has been changed at regular intervals, then leave the original ones.
You can carefully take the old ones apart and clean them, but if your time is worth anything to you, it would be easier to buy a new set.
They get varnished up and they have a tendency to stick, mine were so bad I couldn't even get them apart with out heating them up with an oxy/acetylene torch.
Just be sure and get the right head gasket set, there's a left and right/top up.
The two large water ports at the front of the block are blocked off when the head gaskets are installed correctly and the correct ones are used.
This forces the coolant to the back of the engine so it will circulate properly.
You will also need some new TTY bolts.
Yours is a 2000, so it will have the longer thinner bolts.
The threads in the block will be recessed.
When installing the heads, remember to lubricate the thread holes and bolts.
Leave the gaskets in the package until you're ready to install them.
Also replace the front oil seal as well.
If the shaft surface is badly grooved where the seal rides on it, then a sleeve is available.
Be carful when you remove the timing cover not to damage the oil pan gasket.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech..._0-build.shtml
Last edited by Jeff R 1; Nov 6, 2017 at 02:38 PM.
This little truck has resided next door to me at my neighbors house for years. I owned a 1984 Ranger and loved it until my 1987 thunderbird turbo coupe caught my eye. It was sitting there head blown and my neighbor had no idea what to do , he wanted to part it out and I decided to give it another chance at life. I needed a truck to pick things up soooo here we are. Looking to upgrade this truck , who knows. Will post progress.
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