Hey all!
i was in the market for a small pickup truck, and came across this ranger, I dont mind the style of them, (I used to own a 1994 s10 5 speed and regret selling it years ago..)

Im super excited to modify and make the truck reliable for me and my spouse.

Ive got a 2004 Ranger, 4.0L Automatic,
the truck has 310,000KM on it, it looks pretty well taken care of for the KM and age. (Small weeping valve cover thats going to be fixed soon)

Ive planned to do a full service (antifreeze flush, sparkplugs, oil change, change brake fluid and power steering fluid)





I plan to find a new set of rims, buff up the headlights.
Ive got a new diff cover coming for the rear as it has a small weep and the cover was cheap.
Im looking at getting new shocks all the way around.
it does need some mudflaps on it too.

Is there anything I should focus on? I heard the 4.0 has a timing chain issue? I have no startup rattle and the truck sounds smooth.

 

If the rear axle has a weep, I would make sure you check the oil level in the differential before you drive the truck too far. The outer axle bearings require a small amount of gear oil for lubrication, but a small weep will lower the oil level enough to make it hard for gear oil to travel down the axle tubes and reach the bearings. Once those bearings go dry, they'll start to eat into the axle shafts. Not trying to scare you, just have a few friends who let little weeps go for long periods, and they all needed new axle shafts.

 

Hey thanks for the heads up! I do have a new cover/seal on order and already bought gear oil for it, I haven't checked the fluid yet, and im not driving it much as id like to get a couple other things done too.
it will definitely be an afternoon job this week to get it done!

 

As for your question regarding the 4.0, that issue mainly involved 2001-2005 4.0 SOHC. By 2005 or 2006, they had pretty much solved that issue. Since you have a 2004, you likely do have the older style that is prone to failure, but they may have already been replaced by now. Just monitor the engine and if you start hearing the rattle, you'll know what's coming.

 

@pupers
If history of the two OilPressurized TimingTensioners is unknown, best to change those every 75k~100kMiles.
Also consider swapping an Aluminum ThermoStat Housing for the factory junk Plastic ThermoStat Housing,
before it leaks, overheats engine &\or leaves you stranded.
Left Tensioner & ThermoStat Housing are next to each other; changing either is a good time to change the other.
Frequent 5kMile\6Mth Oil+Filter changes will extend life of the Timing components & engine generally.
Considering your mileage, new Fan+FanClutch+SerpBelt+Pump+Radiator+RadiatorCap+H oses is recommended.
Change 5r55eTranny fluid & filter; MerconV, not Mercon\MerconLV.
Assuming 4WD, change TransferCase fluid; MerconLV, not Mercon\MerconV.
TransferCase 4x4ShiftMotor & 4x4ControlModule are both known failure items, but relatively easy to replace.
Change both rear+front Diff GearOil.
Front BearingHubs are known failure items; can remove SpeedSensors & push some AxleGrease into these.

 

lots good info here thanks a lot.

had a question about the thermostat housing, there was a couple for sale on Rockauto but in the “economy” section, the rest where plastic.
I don't mind upgrading to that as long as it is more reliable.

A transmission fluid/filter change would be also next on my list.

Im curious as to why I would replace my clutch fan/hoses and radiator?
I also thought about going E-fan (I have fans already) I had them on my S10 but I felt like it took to much electrical power? Is there a certain way I should hook them up?

I’m not sure if its my front diff weeping or its just the old valve cover gasket, I will find out after the valve covers have been replaced, from what I read the front diff cover is annoying to change.

I dont plan to use the 4x4 on it, unless I REALLY have to. Truthfully I would have it removed just for the weight, but ill leave it as is just in case.

 

Again the plastic ThermoStat Housing (OEM\AfterMarket plastic) are all JUNK; all will split open at the HeatWelded body seam\flange.
There's basicly 2 choices for an Aluminum ThermoStat Housing; one by SimmonsAutoSportz\SAP, another by all other makers\vendors.
Either is more reliable & thus preferred over the plastic versions.
Click here for more info on Aluminum ThermoStat Housing for the V6~4.0L~SOHC Engine.

Inspect your Fan+FanClutch.
The plastic Fan tends to develop cracks in the blades & hub.
The FanClutch wears out & does not engage\disengage properly with air temperature changes.

If your Radiator is original, it likely has internal sediment\calcite clogging the lower rows, & external road kill clogging the air passages.
Also consider replacing the junk PlasticTanked original with an AllAluminum version; the plastic cracks & crimps loosen then leak.
Click here for more info on replacing the Radiator.

Original rubber hoses+belts on your 2004 vehicle are now 16years+ old;
they've done their tour of duty & need to be replaced.

Front Diff is a problem, as a crossmember prevents simply removing the cover.
Try retorqing the cover bolts & see if the weep\leak stops.
Definitely suction the old oil out & refill.
Front axle is "live" meaning no locking hubs & the front Differential is turning in both 2WD & 4WD.
Not ever using\servicing the 4x4 system is a recipe for failure;
recommend shifting into 4WHi & 4WLo at least once a month
to exercise the components & provide some assurance they work "just in case".

 

So I have gone ahead and changed the rear diff cover and gear oil, went very well and have no weeping from the cover anymore (looks a lot more sharp now too)
I'm going to throw another order in for those parts mentioned (thermo housing, tensioner, transmission fluid and filter)

There's a "metal" thermo housing on rock auto, would it justify the extra $50 over the aluminum?
More Information for DORMAN 9021998 (rockauto.com)

I am also looking at getting some new shocks all the way around, the truck being a flat deck I am considering raising the truck a couple inches also, nothing major though.
Any recommendations for a set of shocks? and a lift kit? I debated on a cheap one from Amazon.
I only need about an inch in the rear, I don't care so much about the front as long as its level/not rubbing my rear tires.

 

The belltech 6400 Chevy drop shackles or similar give you about an inch, maybe a bit more and would be a super easy option to grab an extra inch in the rear.

 

Awesome thatd be super easy to instal ill probably go that route then.
does it affect my shocks much? Will I have to have extended shocks or can I just buy oem grade shocks? I was leaning towards blistien or rancho shocks.

 

Doesn't effect anything much, shocks shouldn't notice it. You'd see the same lift from a set of new leaf springs I'd imagine, unless the current ones haven't sagged at all. I have tried a bunch of different shocks in the back and the ride always sucks with an empty bed so I stopped caring. If your flatbed is heavier than the stock bed I wouldn't be surprised if you had a smoother ride from it. Any decent shocks of the stock size should be just fine.

 

That Dorman#9021998 METAL ThermoStatHousing is ALUMINUM. Its LowerBody appears to be machined from a single block of aluminum, simular to the SimmonsAutoSportz design, thus the higher cost; there are advantages & disadvantages compared to the other alum design with a 2PieceLowerBody.
Also the Dorman#9021998 appears for a single ThreadMt TempSensor; is that what you have on a 2004 V6~4.0L~SOHC, do you have ClipMt TempSensor(s) 1 or 2?
I've got a 2PieceLowerBody Alum TStatHousing installed now 2yrs & doing fine; just takes a little more time to install proper
At that time it cost ~$75 as a full kit with all hardware (6Bolts + 2Gaskets) + Thermostat With ORing; prices have gotten lower since.
It also had new unbranded (Chinese?) temp sensors & new clips, which I did not use.
The Dorman appears well made, just make sure about the number & type of TempSensors that you need.