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  #26  
Old 02-01-2005
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very cool!

but wouldnt it be easier to just get a explorer bezel and replace the rear defrost iwth a foglight switch, and call it a day?

also, how would u hook up an aftermarket fog light setup to the second foglight switch?
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  #27  
Old 02-01-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TippnOver
very cool!

but wouldnt it be easier to just get a explorer bezel and replace the rear defrost iwth a foglight switch, and call it a day?

also, how would u hook up an aftermarket fog light setup to the second foglight switch?
The Explorer bezel comes in many styles and has a rear wiper/washer switch where our power point is. It can be converted with some modification. Why would I buy a bezel that needs to be modified when I can modify the one I already own?

The factory foglamp switch can be used to control aux lights or fog lamps. The wire marked "KCs" could be any aux lighting or fog lamps. The wire marked "keyed 12v" could come from different triggers like the low-beam circuit, high beam circuit or exterior lights circuit. For fogs, the low beam only would follow factory practice but the exterior light trigger (brown wire) would allow fog lamp operation with low or high beams or parking lights.

The relay and wires would need to be sized for the current carried. The fuses would be sized to protect the wires and relay.


Last edited by V8 Level II; 02-01-2005 at 11:49 AM.
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  #28  
Old 02-21-2005
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I did this :


Just ran the wires under the carpet to the pack of the armrest. I left room on the plate to add extra switches if I wanted to, but I'm really liking this idea.
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  #29  
Old 02-21-2005
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Here's what I'm working on today. I'm hacking on my bezel to add two more switches.

The upper switch is an Explorer rear window defrost switch that has been turned upside down to match the contour of the left side of the bezel. This switch will eventually be used for heated mirrors.

The switch in the middle, above the lighter, is a Traction Control Disable part from an 05 Explorer/Expedition. It will become an ABS-disable switch on my truck - I think the icon is close enough.

Since it was designed for a flat surface, I had to alter the contour of the bezel where it mounts, using a plastic wedge and Bondo. The switch sits a little below the surface to help prevent accidental use.

The switch has a dash illumination LED and an "OFF" LED as well as a momentary on switch. I need to make up or buy a flip-flop device to cycle the ABS on and off.



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  #30  
Old 02-21-2005
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Too cool!
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  #31  
Old 02-22-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NHBubba
Too cool!
Thanks, Colin. A little more sanding and some paint and I'm there. I found a schematic for a relay array that can convert momentary on to sequential on-off-on but I was thinking that I might be able to use solid state instead. Does anyone know of a standalone flip-flop device that can be used to switch a 12v-10A circuit?
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  #32  
Old 02-22-2005
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Geez...you smart people seriously make me feel stupid...these are incredible mods!
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  #33  
Old 02-22-2005
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Not that I'm immediately familiar w/. You could use something like a 7474 flip-flop or even a latch. But most IC's work w/ +5VDC levels and won't handle near that amount of power. You'd have to build in additional electonics for controlling the higher power circuit. Of course you probably shouldn't put that amount of power through a switch anyway. You'll want a relay in there anyhow.
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  #34  
Old 02-22-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NHBubba
Not that I'm immediately familiar w/. You could use something like a 7474 flip-flop or even a latch. But most IC's work w/ +5VDC levels and won't handle near that amount of power. You'd have to build in additional electonics for controlling the higher power circuit. Of course you probably shouldn't put that amount of power through a switch anyway. You'll want a relay in there anyhow.
I was afraid that might be the case. I guess I will just use the relays instead. Thanks, Colin.
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  #35  
Old 02-22-2005
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That being said, something may exist. I'm not an automotive guy, I work w/ embedded sutff, and even mostly software stuff these days at that. .. Although hang on, lemme go check our product docs..
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  #36  
Old 02-22-2005
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..Nope, even we use relays in the end. We have an open collector card, that ironically often powers our relay circuits, but it will only sink like 100mA anyhow.. Looked up the 74AC374 octal D flip-flop, which we use in a number of circuits around here. It's spec'ed to run off a VCC of -0.5 to 7.0 VDC..
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  #37  
Old 02-22-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NHBubba
..Nope, even we use relays in the end. We have an open collector card, that ironically often powers our relay circuits, but it will only sink like 100mA anyhow.. Looked up the 74AC374 octal D flip-flop, which we use in a number of circuits around here. It's spec'ed to run off a VCC of -0.5 to 7.0 VDC..
Thanks for looking into it, Colin. I have nothing against using relays, just thought it might be fun to try something different. Thanks again.
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  #38  
Old 02-22-2005
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yo bob why would you be disabling abs?
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  #39  
Old 02-22-2005
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Originally Posted by SUPERGILDO
yo bob why would you be disabling abs?
To prevent reduction of braking in loose stuff, especially downhill. In some conditions, locked brakes stop much better than ABS will allow.
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  #40  
Old 02-22-2005
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Looks good bob. thanks for doin al this stuff before i get the truck it saves me time hhahaha
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  #41  
Old 02-22-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redneckstone
Looks good bob. thanks for doin al this stuff before i get the truck it saves me time hhahaha
No problem, Zach. Glad to help.
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  #42  
Old 02-22-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwenzing
No problem, Zach. Glad to help.
thanks buddy!
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  #43  
Old 02-22-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwenzing
Thanks for looking into it, Colin. I have nothing against using relays, just thought it might be fun to try something different. Thanks again.
I understand. But I think unless you are going to be switching several circuits, then solid state is probably more work than it's worth. The application I mentioned before, w/ the open collector outputs is an expansion card that switches up to 24 invdividual circuits. The card also probably lists for a couple hundred bucks by itself, then there's the relay board that attaches to it and the automation system behind it, of course you'd replace all that w/ a switch. Like I said, overkill.

Very cool stuff though, keep it up.

So where do you get most of your parts from. Like the extra switches and stuff. Are these JY finds?
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  #44  
Old 02-22-2005
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[drool]

cool mods....
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  #45  
Old 02-22-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NHBubba
So where do you get most of your parts from. Like the extra switches and stuff. Are these JY finds?
The Explorer switch came with a bunch of other stuff from a JY. The traction control disable switch came from the dealer and was only $12 but get this: the pigtail for the switch retails for $35!! I'll have to find another way around that one!
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  #46  
Old 02-22-2005
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What, do you have a catalog or something? Are you just really good friends w/ the parts guy? Or did you see the switch somewhere and say "that's what I want!" .. Actually the last option is what my dad does/did. He was looking to relocate the controls on his '78 Honda. I had my '01 Suzuki parked in the driveway. He looks at the Suzi, looks at the Honda, back at the Suzi.. back to the Honda. About then I caught on and decided it was about time I stopped brining my bike by his place! .. My uncle is worse, he wants the whole engine and gearbox for his next SCCA chassis..
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  #47  
Old 02-22-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NHBubba
Or did you see the switch somewhere and say "that's what I want!"
That's exactly it. I saw the switch in an Explorer on the lot, bought it and figured out the pinout.
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  #48  
Old 04-28-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwenzing
The wire marked "keyed 12v" could come from different triggers like the low-beam circuit, high beam circuit or exterior lights circuit. For fogs, the low beam only would follow factory practice but the exterior light trigger (brown wire) would allow fog lamp operation with low or high beams or parking lights.
Speaking of 12VDC taps.. Any suggestions on which wire I can tap to get the KC's to be powered ONLY w/ the high beams? I need a line that is at 12VDC when the high beams are on and preferably at ground when not..
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  #49  
Old 04-28-2005
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Gray/orange from the multifunction switch to fuse 33 or light green/black from fuse 33 out into the engine bay. It is hot in high beam or flash to pass. Never grounded.

I assume that you will be using this as a relay trigger, correct?
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  #50  
Old 04-29-2005
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And it's in the cab too! Sweet. Thanks man..

Yup, looking for a (switched) trigger for a relay. This is the 'white wire' KC wiring harness kit. I've had it tied to unswitched ground for nearly a year now, and it's come in handy a few times. But now I'm thinking I'd like to have them tied to the high beams in case I forget to disable them when going on-road..
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