Bed-liner type paint, for the do it yourself (rolling on application - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #1  
Old 02-26-2007
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Bed-liner type paint, for the do it yourself (rolling on application

I am about to start looking into a Bed-liner type paint, for the do it yourself (rolling on application). I wanna rip out the carpet inside my truck and put something i can sweep out a lil better, also have other spots i wanna put the paint at... anyone recomend a brand that works good and isnt going to cost me my left nut?
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Old 02-26-2007
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I used Herculiner Roll-On Bedliner. I bought a kit at an auto store for about $60 which came with a roller, a big can of liner, and scuff pad. It was enough to do 3 coats of liner on the interior floor of my Bronco - front and back. I still have enough left over to possibly even get in a fourth coat.

It is not the best at holding up in the bed if you are dragging sharp metal objects on it (as I found out) but it works great inside the cab. My experience has also been that it is definitely better than that cheap spray on crap made by duplicolor.
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Old 02-26-2007
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thanks for the info, ill check them out some!
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Old 02-26-2007
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we used herculiner on the interior of my buddy's S-10. turned out great.



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  #5  
Old 02-26-2007
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looks sharp, good work and thanks for the posts
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Old 02-26-2007
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about how much time did it take and about how much money?
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Old 02-26-2007
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the herculiner kit is $75 from walmart. there is still more than half of the gallon left, and that was doing the required 2 layers, and then doing a third layer on the floorboard where your feet rest.

prep takes the longest. you need to take your time and get it all done right though. i'm no stranger to tearing interiors down, and especially s-10 interiors (i had a blazer) so it took me about 45 minutes start to finish to get from this:

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i spent a few more minutes rewiring the stereo. then about an hour or more sanding the metal. then vacuumed, then wiped it down with the xylene. let it dry. applied first coat, let that dry, and applied second and finally third coats.

realistically, you're looking at a 2 day job. it won't take all of either day to complete, but unless you have sun up to sun down to devote to it, well....just take your time. in 70* weather, it will take a few hours to dry between coats.
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Old 02-26-2007
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here is a link to all the pics....

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v2...-10/?start=all
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  #9  
Old 02-26-2007
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how did u tuck away the wires? just put it under where the plasic paneling goes?
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Old 02-26-2007
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yeap. everything fits down the sides under the trim. that's how i generally wire mine from the get-go on simple systems, but whoever did his originally ran it under the carpet (and in no specific array either).
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Old 02-27-2007
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It took me about 2 days as well when I lined my truck with the Hurculiner. He is right that the biggest time consumer is the prep. I ended up buying a wire brush and going over the paint with that. It cut the time down quite a bit.
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Old 02-27-2007
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yeah, that wire wheel brush attached to a corded drill will make it super easy. it makes quick work of the paint and gunk, but it will also wear your hands down from the vibrations. small price to pay to get the job done right, but easier.
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Old 02-27-2007
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i got a nice small angle grinder and some wire wheels, thanks! i would have done it the hard way. lol
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Old 02-27-2007
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If you use vibarting tools a lot look into impact gloves. It's well worth the investment.
Didn't have them in my day. 20 years of running air drills everyday and I have severe Carpal Tunnel in both hands. Impact gloves are great for chainsaws and weedwackers too.
If you just use once in awhile take a clean rag and put inside the glove at the palm area. This cuts down the vibration a LOT. Wierd feeling at first put not too bad compared the other choice.
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  #15  
Old 02-27-2007
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i use these:




they help quite a bit with the vibes because of the padded palm, but my hands just cramp up after a while.
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Old 02-27-2007
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Do you need to put down a primer or anything for that stuff? Or do you need to scuff up the metal for it to adhere?
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Old 02-27-2007
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Gearhead61, I just read the post from start to finish because I have messed up carpet and needs some type of replacement, but anyway, they said they:
1) Sanded or used a wire wheel to rough up the metal and remove the paint.
2) Then cleaned with a xylene.
3) Then apply first coat of Hurculiner, let dry (couple hours aprox)
4) Then apply second coat and let dry.
5) Remove tape, replace/run wires, replace seats, console ect. Done.

NOTE: The instructions say 2 coats, but like they said above, 3 or even possibly 4 would be better, and why not you have enough and just costs a little more time.

Hope that answers your question Gearhead61, and if you think about it, I would think that it wouldn't stick well to a primer, probably would peal or bubble mabye.

Last edited by pushdeck; 02-27-2007 at 09:32 PM.
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  #18  
Old 02-27-2007
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the more coats you put on at once, the more heat the create between each other, and cure better.
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  #19  
Old 02-27-2007
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Cool thanks for the advice guys! Gonna be doing a good coat of this on my zuk, so I'll definitely have to go get myself a grinder and some wire brushes.

EDIT: Chris, what do you mean by more layers at once? Like putting it on thicker? Should I let it dry partially and then put more layers on?
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  #20  
Old 02-27-2007
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Good call got-dirty, that makes sense, a partial dry so they can bond better, gonna do that for sure.
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  #21  
Old 02-28-2007
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well first off.....no primer. you want as close to bare metal as possible. the more paint/primer/goop, etc. you get off, the better it will stick.

after applying the first coat, you're supposed to let it sit until almost dry. to where it's still a little tacky, but not runny or anything. the first layer need to make the initial bond to the metal. the good thing about herculiner is it bonds to itself. so you can add layers as needed.
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Old 04-06-2007
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Has anyone ever tried the Dupli Color, or Plasti-Kote brand roll on bed liner. There just like the herculiner just a different brand that comes in a gallon and can be sprayed or rolled on. Seems like its almost the same stuff?
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  #23  
Old 04-06-2007
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those work but rememeber your get what you pay for in most cases.. i work for a company using a product similar to Line-X... and ive dont everything from frames, bed, interiors and all sorts of things and many customs jobs for Disney, Universal Studios, Nasa and Sea World here in Orlando and it may cost more but its so much more durable to go to one of the spray on places to have it done in my opinion...

I see the stuff soo much that it will probably never touch anything but the frame of my Ranger lol and i have my bed sprayed n my F150.
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  #24  
Old 04-06-2007
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the duplicolor in a spray can has no texture to it. roll on is the only way to get it.
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Old 04-06-2007
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I know the professional sprays are typically more durable, but they cost ne where from 400 to 500 by me from what i've had quoted and I can get a gallon of the duplicolor with roller and scratch pads for 50. I only moderately use the bed of the truck and just need something a little more durable than paint that has some texture to it to help stuff stay put and clean up well. I have trouble justifying spending that much more money on a pro job, idk...
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