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  #1  
Old 02-26-2009
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Boat & Trailer

hmmm...not sure if this is the best place for it, but I am looking to get a smaller boat (like a rowboat) and trailer for fishing trips (im looking to spend no more than $300 total). Is anybody on here selling one (or know of anybody)?

Also, when it comes to towing, I shouldn't have a problem with my 2WD right? Also any suggestions on towing long distances?
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  #2  
Old 02-26-2009
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I'd like to get a small boat too. No problem at all pulling a small boat with your truck.
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  #3  
Old 02-26-2009
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Originally Posted by NATEFX407 View Post
I'd like to get a small boat too. No problem at all pulling a small boat with your truck.
Didn't think so, but wasn't sure, thanks for clarifying.
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  #4  
Old 02-26-2009
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ANY ranger will tow a small dinghy.

My recommendation would be like a 10-12' pop riveted aluminum flat boat with some oar locks. Once you save up enough money, get a used 5-8 horse outboard. For fishing on small ponds and rivers a boat like that is perfect.

You can get an old canoe trailer and turn it into a flatboat trailer. Make sure to always strap a boat that light down and either take the motor off of the transom or brace it.

Make sure you have good bearings and there is no water in your dust cap or else you are in a world of hurt. I was stranded on the side of I-75 for 5hrs one time because the bearing on my hobie-cat trailer blew.

A spare tire or two is always a good idea, also. Bigger tires allow you to tow faster, so if you plan to tow for long distances, look into a trailer with some tires that have at least 80mph speed ratings. If you throw a little extra weight in the boat and balance it well, you can tow a small trailer like that at 70mph like it isnt even back there. But if the road gets too rough and/or the boat isn't heavy enough it will start bouncing around and could potentially become a danger. It probably wont make you lose control of the truck but other bad things can happen.
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  #5  
Old 02-26-2009
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Also, if the trailer ever starts to fishtail ACCELERATE. NEVER BRAKE.
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  #6  
Old 02-26-2009
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wow...nice, thanks for help, greatly appreciate it.
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  #7  
Old 02-26-2009
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i have a 14 ft boot with a 15h on the back and my truck only has the 2.5 and 2xd, it tows like nothings back there
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  #8  
Old 02-26-2009
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awesome...glad my truck will be able to handle it =D
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  #9  
Old 02-26-2009
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I have a 14' with an 8 Hp Johnson on a trailer and the truck tows it like theres nothing there.(I have a 4.0L 4x4 but reguardless) All in all small aluminum boats are fairly light.
$300 seems to be kind of a low budget for a boat and trailer, but good luck finding one!
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  #10  
Old 02-26-2009
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  #11  
Old 02-26-2009
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Originally Posted by Ngabr1 View Post
$300 seems to be kind of a low budget for a boat and trailer, but good luck finding one!
This is why I recommend you go with a riveted boat. Fiberglass boats can be had for cheap once they're water logged, but then they are heavy and slower.

Plastic dinghies are sort of cheap. Short and fat so they're stable, too. However sun damage over time yields these boats unusable.

For $200 plus $100 or so for the trailer you're looking at a pop riveted boat at best.

For instance, around here
http://tampa.craigslist.org/hdo/boa/1034605790.html
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  #12  
Old 02-26-2009
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i pull my 18ft boat with no prob. it weighs a little over a ton i believe
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  #13  
Old 02-26-2009
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Oh one more thing i meant to add...i plan on using the boat in the bay/inlet, maybe even the ocean. I'm actually going to MD this May (Pointlookout State park) and do some camping fishing/crabbing...as CBFranger said, I think an aluminum boat would be best for that kind of waterway, right?

and as far as the $300 max goes, i'm pretty much looking for something small to work on, hopefully fix up to be used in those waters (as well as the trailer--but not so much lol).
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  #14  
Old 02-26-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBFranger View Post
This is why I recommend you go with a riveted boat. Fiberglass boats can be had for cheap once they're water logged, but then they are heavy and slower.

Plastic dinghies are sort of cheap. Short and fat so they're stable, too. However sun damage over time yields these boats unusable.

For $200 plus $100 or so for the trailer you're looking at a pop riveted boat at best.

For instance, around here
http://tampa.craigslist.org/hdo/boa/1034605790.html
also, when you say fiberglass boats become slow and heavy you don't mean it'll sink do you? and is it really noticeable with an outboard motor?
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  #15  
Old 02-26-2009
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They just become heavy. If you have a powerful outboard there wont be much difference. With a small one you can tell. A waterlogged 12' flat boat wouldn't get on plane with one person in the boat and a 6hp motor.
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  #16  
Old 02-26-2009
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I have a 12 foot aluminum V bottom with a 18 horse evinrude. I pull it with my truck no problem.
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  #17  
Old 02-26-2009
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Originally Posted by CBFranger View Post
They just become heavy. If you have a powerful outboard there wont be much difference. With a small one you can tell. A waterlogged 12' flat boat wouldn't get on plane with one person in the boat and a 6hp motor.
Ok i see...is there anyway of seeing this when looking at a fiberglass boat?
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  #18  
Old 02-26-2009
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It is any fiberglass boat, it is just the nature of fiuberglass itself, it is a poruse (sp?) material, naturally it is going to suck up water.

Go aluminum, you wont have to worry as much in terms of matanence, and they are alot more durable.
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  #19  
Old 02-27-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chainfire View Post
It is any fiberglass boat, it is just the nature of fiuberglass itself, it is a poruse (sp?) material, naturally it is going to suck up water.

Go aluminum, you wont have to worry as much in terms of matanence, and they are alot more durable.
Pretty much. If they didnt keep it sealed and painted, or if it wasnt gel coated, it will gradually soak water. A newer boat, well out of your price range wouldn't be a problem. For the amount of money you are looking to spend stay away from fiberglass flat boats.

Now, that I read your post about wanting to take it into the bay/inlet. I highly recommend you save your pennies and get a boston whaler. Much safer, considering all things. I dont know how your bay is, but I dont like taking an aluminum V hull boat out on Florida's gulf flats with a 150hp honda motor. I would NOT do that on a flat boat with a little dinky motor, much less Tampa Bay. A small boston whaler with a 10+ hp motor will fit you best. Of course, in the end you will be spending 1k + after the motor. Boston whalers are unsinkable, though. Your truck will tow a boston whaler no problem.



They are a solid foam flatish/shallow V boat with fiberglass and gel coat to make them durable. If you swamp a boston, you bale it out. If you swamp an aluminum boat, you reach for the life vests.

Last edited by CBFranger; 02-27-2009 at 12:16 PM.
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  #20  
Old 02-27-2009
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I personally would rather own a Carolina Skiff then a Whaler, they are cheaper and easier to find too. Just have someone who knows boats look at it before you buy it to make sure the hull isn't rotted out or the transom isn't ripping off. A Skiff or Whaler is going to run you a lot more then $300 though lol.
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  #21  
Old 02-27-2009
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Originally Posted by korey89 View Post
I personally would rather own a Carolina Skiff then a Whaler, they are cheaper and easier to find too. Just have someone who knows boats look at it before you buy it to make sure the hull isn't rotted out or the transom isn't ripping off. A Skiff or Whaler is going to run you a lot more then $300 though lol.
Skiffs are great boats, too.

Really, any boat that is used as a tender for bigger boats will be OK. Whalers, Skiffs, Zodiacs, etc...

But I wouldn't go out on an aluminum flatboat with no flotation blocks (like they put in the front and back of canoes) in a bay/inlet. You're risking life and property.
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  #22  
Old 03-02-2009
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As previously stated If you plan on going in the bay or anything besides a lake I highly recomend a different boat than what your considering. If your going the aluminum route you want to look into at least a 14' Deep Vee or Semi-Vee aluminum boat. A flat bottom jon boat is not designed for breaking waves and current. Your other best bet would be a small skiff which are designed for bay fishing.
My recomendation to you is to save your money for a better safer boat to suit your needs, because none of the boats stated above are going to cost you $300 even if they need work.
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  #23  
Old 03-03-2009
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Boatin' aint cheap unless you join the redneck yacht club.

Last year we took 2 canoes, built a deck between them, added a 5hp 2 stroke outboard, and had a party barge for the river.

Best days of college thus far, hanging out with aligators and good friends while fishing and drinking on a warm spring day in Florida. FTMFW!
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  #24  
Old 03-03-2009
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i miss my 12 footer on trailer. Had to sell it when i moved away to go to college and didnt have anywhere to park it. Not sure what year it was cause the prev owner registered it as a "homemade" in 1982. I paid $400 in 2006 for just the boat and trailer. Luckily my dad had a 1960 something 5hp 2 stroke lying around.

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i now have a 1982 10' jon boat and i would never take it if the weather looked bad at all, and most certinley wouldnt take it out into a bay, ocean, or big river. I really miss the 12 footer i hope to one day replace my jon boat with another one, or maybe even a 14 next time. I paid $50 for this boat when i lived in wisconsin, and it had no tags cause it was used on a private lake. I then had to pay $62 to get a title, tags, and cf in the peoples republic of california

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  #25  
Old 03-03-2009
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A honda can pull it? lmao
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