OK, this is my first post here, and wanted to share my experience with my 2003 Ford Ranger 2.3l 2 wheel drive short bed with 200,000 miles on it. I developed a bad shake at highway speeds, between 58 to 68 mph. I had planned on doing a bunch of work to the old Ranger this summer. I knew I had a bad lower ball joint on the front passenger side. I replaced both sides upper and lower. I also replaced both the inner and outer tied rod ends both sides. All four shocks were replaced and brakes front and rear with new rotors, wheel bearing, and new drums. I had the driveshaft balanced at a local specialty shop and they replaced the u-joints. I repaired one of the rear crossmembers and fabbed a new bed floor for it. I had new tires and rims installed on it too, and the tires were road force balanced. I still had a vibration at highway speeds, but noticed it at lower speeds once I did all the work. Yeah, its been a busy summer on this truck. I started trying different things to isolate the issue. I found that if I pushed in the clutch, it is a 5 speed, the vibration went away. However, as soon as I let the clutch out the vibration came back. I checked both motor mounts and the transmission mount at the output shaft housing, all good.

Ok, here is what I found to be the problem. I had noticed when I had the bed off the truck working on the crossmember that the upper hanger on the inlet side of the muffler had rusted through. It was still there, it was not suspending the muffler any longer. I took the original off and put an aftermarket one that attached to the pipe at the bottom of the muffler and bolted it to the crossmember after fabbing a bracket to hang it on. This still left the top side of the muffler loose, but it felt tight so I didn’t think much of it. However, after trying to track this vibration down for several weeks I made some mods to the exhaust system. First, I installed a braided steel flex pipe at the junction where the spring and bolts used to be, I had bolted it solid a while ago when those pieces had rusted out. Second, I wrapped some metal strapping around the muffler and hung it from the top side of the muffler. This is only a temporary thing until I get the muffler replaced all together eliminating the problem. Anyway, my vibration is almost gone. This muffler is extremely top-heavy and vibrated side to side when it is not secure. The original hanger had a piece welded to it so it would be supported by two rubber hangers on each side of the muffler, thus preventing the side to side vibration. I will let you guys know how it turns out when I get the new muffler installed. 90% of the parts I replaced were original equipment. The exhaust system is original also.



Sorry about the long post, but, if you are getting a bad vibration at highway speeds that goes away when you put the truck into neutral or push in the clutch, and you have eliminated all the other possibilities, check that hanger on the muffler and see if it is loose or rusted out. I have heard about exhaust systems creating a bad vibration on vehicles but have never experienced one before. The vibration could be felt in the seat and floorboard mainly, but once it got going it could be felt in the steering wheel also. Ask away or give suggestions if you are so inclined. Thanks for letting me share this with everyone.

 

Was the exhaust issue the problem ?
Im going through the same thing 😪

 

The exhaust was part of the problem. I found also that the front wheel bearings were not right. I had put new rotors on, which come with new races, so I left them in and used the Moog wheel bearings only when I did the front brakes. They eventually got to a point where the front wheels had a little too much play. I didn't figure out what happened until I had the old "new" races and bearings out. The Moog bearing was not seating down into the race as it should. Once I put the new bearings in using the races that came with them the vibration was finally gone. Now, I have been a mechanic for 35 years and have never had this issue before, using the existing race with a new bearing as long as the rotor was brand new. I guess there was enough of a difference in the manufacturing of the parts from different companies that it made a difference. Once I did the bearings the vibration was totally gone. Given the truck had 220,000 miles on it, it was just working through all the possibilities, but I never suspected an issue with new bearings.

 

Thanks man ill try some new bearings and knock the old races out if the hub.

I did the same thing, new hubs/rotors but left the races in that came with the rotors.

 

What all have you done so far?

 

shocks
Tires
Alignment
Wheelbearings
All the brakes
Tie rod ends
lower ball joints

If you check my posts I just made a big post 2 days ago. But thats the basics.

 

I also have a vibration problem that has showed up in the last couple of thousand miles. (total mileage 154,000) This is a 2007 FX4 Level 2 vehicle, automatic.

First of all there is a weird rhythmic sound near the back that sounds like a rock rattling in a can when you start out for a bit. Sort of a tick, tick, tick, tick that increases with acceleration. It goes away after a few seconds.

Then, at say 50-70mph there is pretty bad vibration that is worse when I take my foot off the accelerator until it slows down enough. The vibration is still there even if I put it in neutral when doing those speeds so it seems different than what the OP had.

Perhaps it is the exhaust system but if it is, I'm surprised that it is that powerful.

I have had the wheels road force balanced and that did nothing.

Any ideas?

 

[QUOTE=Nucks;2201608]I also have a vibration problem that has showed up in the last couple of thousand miles. (total mileage 154,000) This is a 2007 FX4 Level 2 vehicle, automatic.

First of all there is a weird rhythmic sound near the back that sounds like a rock rattling in a can when you start out for a bit. Sort of a tick, tick, tick, tick that increases with acceleration. It goes away after a few seconds.

Then, at say 50-70mph there is pretty bad vibration that is worse when I take my foot off the accelerator until it slows down enough. The vibration is still there even if I put it in neutral when doing those speeds so it seems different than what the OP had.

Perhaps it is the exhaust system but if it is, I'm surprised that it is that powerful.

I have had the wheels road force balanced and that did nothing.

I just got my bearings done my new rotors and got new front shocks bc I’m pretty sure ones I had are blown shot useless and I have severe vibration only once I get over 60 mph up until around 70 problem is I can’t get it over 65 because I lose control of the vehicle between the bad vibration like whole front end feels like it’s gonna go and also I can’t control the vehicle if 18 wheeler drives past me I lose it for second and rear end wiggles and takes more turning on steering wheel to turn and has more body roll feels very loose in steering and in general always feels like I’m about to roll the truck or lose control and wipe out hopeing shocks fix it but if not only thing I know is to change rear wheel bearings and replace u joints and ball joints lower ones seem questionable tie rods seem good though. Oh forgot to mention my cat has gone bad and muffler has rusted a couple holes in it which actually made truck sound amazingly good but it’s also blowing hot fumes onto the rear shock and axle area causing underside of truck to almost look burnt. I’m about to get rid of this truck I’ve had it three years never issue now check engine light won’t stay off and something always going bad and there’s no room for anyone or anything and not comfortable at all but can’t afford another car or even to have this one fixed so any tricks to fix stuff cheap be amazing and to make it highway safe again. Oh also I plan on getting wheels road force balanced and alignment this week