Paint job, with bed liner. - Page 3 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


New Ideas Have a new idea for your Ford Ranger? General discussion of new ideas for the Ford Ranger.

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  #51  
Old 01-14-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazymikey View Post
That was more a guideline for painting in general.

I think he is bette roff just spraying the truck flat black. If he doesnt plan for the bedliner to be permanent, that is going to be one hell of a job to rip if all off when he does want to paint it.
I didn't know he didn't want it to be permanent. But yeah. If you don't plan on keeping it forever then just do the whole truck flat black.
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  #52  
Old 01-14-2009
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Raptor liner is good for the body line down but fades like the other DIY liners. I'm gonna ge the Line-x from teh body line down all around the truck and thats $600
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  #53  
Old 01-14-2009
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Originally Posted by 98liftedranger View Post
I didn't know he didn't want it to be permanent. But yeah. If you don't plan on keeping it forever then just do the whole truck flat black.
no, i was planning on keeping it till the truck dies.

i have to wet sand it? i thought wet sanding was only for finishing?
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  #54  
Old 01-14-2009
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If you are going to use the bedliner on your truck, just sand the area you want to spray with 120 grit (fairly rough) sandpaper. You do not need to get to bare metal. Just sand until it looks like you are beginning to ruin your paint. Wipe off all the sanding dust, and then mask off the areas you do not want sprayed with newspaper or plastic sheets or carboard. Spray on the liner evenly and let it dry.

Give yourself a full day or a weekend to do it. No wetsanding required.
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  #55  
Old 01-15-2009
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use 80 grite to start, then go too 220 then clean and paint its primier that you are useing so the finish is going to have a pourise finish or however you spell it... but its not goignt to look like stock do a few coats then use some 1600 with a sray bottle lighty sand it and your done... and for hurc sand the **** out of it clean it and apply... show us pics...
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  #56  
Old 01-15-2009
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Originally Posted by 00stepside View Post
use 80 grite to start, then go too 220 then clean and paint its primier that you are useing so the finish is going to have a pourise finish or however you spell it... but its not goignt to look like stock do a few coats then use some 1600 with a sray bottle lighty sand it and your done... and for hurc sand the **** out of it clean it and apply... show us pics...
Wow! LOL Capital letters and periods make sentences. That was hard to read.
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  #57  
Old 01-15-2009
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Originally Posted by 00stepside View Post
use 80 grite to start, then go too 220 then clean and paint its primier that you are useing so the finish is going to have a pourise finish or however you spell it... but its not goignt to look like stock do a few coats then use some 1600 with a sray bottle lighty sand it and your done... and for hurc sand the **** out of it clean it and apply... show us pics...
why sand it after i apply it? its bedliner.


ill do this whole project when it gets warmer out. its too damn cold to do it now. should be a month or so. ill post the pictures then.
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  #58  
Old 01-15-2009
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ill help with a write up on how to do it when i get out of work. Its not hard to do but try NOT to sand all the clear off if you dont have to! no to going to the metal as well.

ill write up why when i get home.
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  #59  
Old 01-15-2009
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yup,listen to Steve. He's a painter and knows his stuff.
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  #60  
Old 01-15-2009
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Originally Posted by jrpro130 View Post
I would do a roll on liner, like hurculiner.
X2. The liner that comes in aerosol cans is worthless. It looks bad and comes off easy.
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  #61  
Old 01-15-2009
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allrighty. ill wait for your write up.
please keep in mind im a slow 16 year old, ( if thats not evident)
so details, the more the better! :)

what does everyone think? spray can, or roll on? i dont think i need much, just less than the bottom half of the truck.
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  #62  
Old 01-15-2009
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Definitely not the spray can unless you want black dust on your hands every time you touch the truck. Use a quality liner like Herculiner if you want it to last and look good.
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  #63  
Old 01-15-2009
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any idea on how much it would cost for a gallon or so? just a ball park figure?
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  #64  
Old 01-15-2009
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It's $80 or so for a kit with 1 gallon of liner and supplies. I don't know how much a gallon is by itself.
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  #65  
Old 01-15-2009
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I remember seeing this thing a while back. He did his entire Chevy with a truck bedliner. He used the Dupli-color brand. I always use that brand of spray paint and never had any problems. Never tried their bedliner though
Anyways Here is the link http://duplicolor.anthonythomas.com/...ory.php?id=189
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  #66  
Old 01-15-2009
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
allrighty. ill wait for your write up.
please keep in mind im a slow 16 year old, ( if thats not evident)
so details, the more the better! :)

what does everyone think? spray can, or roll on? i dont think i need much, just less than the bottom half of the truck.


Id try to go the roll on route. It will build thicker and probably take a little longer to dry. that might not sound like a plus, but in this case it will help to avoid any weird spray can stripes. If you havent seen them, they are like streaks that you can see from the spray pattern in the end finish.


Ok heres a rough cut on a prep job. This is going to apply to the inside of a bed. Similar rules will apply to the ourside of a vehicle, if you need any specific questions answered, just ask.

Step 1 - WASH THE LIVING HELL OUT OF WHAT YOU ARE GONNA PREP!

Step 2 -
You need
- 80 or 120 grit Wet or dry sandpaper
- a sanding bloc. a soft block for wet sanding by hand. I reccomend MotorGaurds SB1. Grey one one side and black on the other
-Bucket with soap and water
- A willingness to get soaked
- Buy some latex gloves for when you are sanding.

You are gonna wet sand the inside of the bed. That means you are gonna use what is known as 'Wet or Dry" sandpaper. For this type of job they usually reccomend 80 -120 grit sandpaper*. You will be best served to use a bucket with water in it and some soap.Throw some sandpaper in the bucket with the sanding block. (SAVE 1 sheet! keet it dry!) )Hop in the bed and bring the bucket with you. Start at the front of the bed and wrap the sandpaper around the block and start sanding. You will only need light to moderate pressure when sanding. Take longer strokes where possible and try to sand it evenly. Dont just stick in one spot and grind on the paint.

The questions was raised about how much sanding is enough? Well the best way to see if youve done enough is when the paint is no longer shiny. at all. You want to bascially just knock off the shinyness of the paint. That means you have sucessfully hit all of it and it now has 'tooth' to provide the paint (or bedliner in this case) to stick to it.

You will need to get in ALL the little curves, dips, corners and other areas that you will apply the bedliner too. If you dont scuff it, it WILL peel there. Once it starts to peel, it doesnt get better either. so take your time here.

Because the paper is very coars, you will most likely break through the paint in some spots. Its understanable, it will happen but try not to do it on purpose. If you do break through the metal, just wait. Ill explain what to do in the next few steps.

Get the water hose and rinse out the whole inside of the bed. Make sure all the soap is gone.

Step 3
You will need
- Towels.

Dry the bed. Enjoy the semi raw feeling that your hands now have because of sanding without the gloves i told you to buy. Next time dont be so cheap :D

Step 4
You will need
- Spray can primer.

You arent a pro most likely. I dont expect you to buy etch primer, then hit it with some 2K urethane. Spray can primer will be fine for what you are doing here. Get the spray can out and hit all the little bare metal areas that you got when sanding. Hit it with one light coat first, then after it flashes off (the point where its no longer wet looking) then give it a medium coat. After that one flashes, give it one more medium coat of primer. Dont just hammer it on! you dont need alot, just enough to get something over the metal.

Step 5
You will need
- about $10

Go get something to eat. dont take the Ranger. walk down the street and do something for about an hour.

Step 6

Get your sandpaper again. Hopefully you bought enough that you still have some that you didnt soak in the bucket. Sand the primed spots a bit. This time do it lightly enough that you dont break through the primer. Hopefully you developed a little bit of a feel for how the paper handles now.

Step 7
You will need
- Bedliner material
- Masking tape
- masking paper
- Paper towels
- Wax and Grease remover (not laquer thinner!) get this at an auto paint store. it comes in spray cans. 1 is enough.

First of all, mask off the parts you dont want to get hit with the bedliner. This might include if you are gonna do the tops of the bed rails or whatever. mask of basically anything you dont want black!

Get some paper towels and the wax and grease remover. spray it on the bed surface and wipe it around with one rag. Get ANOTHER rag and WHILE ITS STILL WET, dry it off. move on to the next part hit the whole bed and hop out.

Open your can of bedliner material. stir the holy living hell out of it. Make sure to use the stir sticks you got with the kit ( or the paint store) and scrape the bottom of the can to pick up anything that settled there. Once its pretty uniform and consistant, pour it into the paint tray that they give you (they gave you one right?)

Get the rollers out. PLAN IT OUT!! you are gonna hop into the bed and start rolling. work at the front of the bed and work backwards. dont paint yourself into a corner!

load up a roller, hop your *** in the bed and get at it. usually they require one coat for coverage. If you ever painted a house, you should know how to use a roller with paint. Not too hard.

They also usually require a second coat. for texture. after you finish the first coat, give it a few minutes to flash. (theres that word again) usually this is about 30 minutes. After that, roll on your second coat. READ THE DIRECTIONS ON THE CAN THOUGH! they arent always the same so check the one you get first.


Let it dry in the shade and wait a week before you throw anything heavy in the bed. Enjoy it. Now the *****es will want you.




FOOTNOTES-



- Grit refers to the number of grains per square inch. the higher the number, the finer the paper. Use 36- 180 for body work Use 220 - 320 for primering use 400 - 1000 for paint work. use 1200 - 3000 grit for polishing finished paint.

- You dont want to break through the factory paint if you dont have to because its gonna stick to the metal the best. There are exceptions, but by far it has the best adherence to the body. You also dont want to break through the clear alot because when its time to apply something over the top of it, the edges of where you broke through the paint are very thin. This makes them very prone to reacting when you apply something directly over the top of them. The most common reaction is a big, fat wrinkly mess of paint. Thats not good and a ***** at times to fix.

- I dont think doing the whole truck is gonna look good, but its your truck so do whatever you wish. I do think doing just the lower part of the truck might look good.

- This is a writeup done for entertainment only. Neither I, nor my employer are responsible for your vehicle or yourself should you choose to perform the above action. any painting should be done by a professional, trained painter in a safe, legal environment. No gaurantees of anything are expressed or implied.

(yeah yeah yeah, i know. I might be overdoing it on the last part, but the internet is a small place ok? )

Last edited by Sixt9coug; 01-15-2009 at 10:52 PM.
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  #67  
Old 01-17-2009
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you. are. awesome. period.

wow. thank you kind sir.

wow.
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  #68  
Old 01-17-2009
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haha... my hands are nice and soft after sanding... it helps with the hardness, puts the lotion on the skin... haha

good write up though...

and good luck...
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  #69  
Old 01-17-2009
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  #70  
Old 01-17-2009
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what kind of liner did you use? did you do it yourself? or get the pros to do it?
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  #71  
Old 01-23-2009
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so i started the project today. did the cab and the bumper.

i will be doing the test of the bed tomorrow hopefully.

i love power sanders. we took pictures, btw. ill post em when i finish the project, or actually get the pictures from my friends.
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  #72  
Old 01-23-2009
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That thing Steve wrote was cool, but that is not how you are supposed to prep and do a roll on bedliner according to the manufacturer. I have spoke with the owner of the company that I used for my bedliner on my truck. The way in the tutorial is the exact process that is recommended by the company, the owner saw the tutorial and approved also.

Link,
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=74208
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  #73  
Old 01-23-2009
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Its basically the same method of prepping. The only difference really was they didnt have you wet sand, and they have you put the first coat on thin, then lay on the second.

Either one would work, different companies will have different reccomendations at times. It looks like it came out great though! I personally prefer the spray on bedliners, as they arent much more money, and i like a catalized product. Then again i know most people dont have access to spray booths and guns and whatnot.


To the OP - get some pics when you are done!
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  #74  
Old 01-25-2009
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ITS DONE!!!!!


i love it. worked on it all day today. couple of buddies helped, including one girl i made come with me( hahahah) she had fun though, let her sand for the most part.

ill post the pictures when i get them from my friend. shoud be tomorrow. sometime in the PM, cause we will be going to go to the junkyard to look for some stuff in the morning.
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  #75  
Old 01-26-2009
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since we're on the subject of bed liner paint jobs:



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