5speedin2.3's SAS Thread
#201
04-11-2008
i dought it will bend in the middle. its not the main link from knuckle to knuckle.
if i drill a hole and use a bolt(s) i will do this at each end where the TREs enter the tube and drill through the tube and the tie rod end. if the welds fail then i have a back up.
i seriously don't think this will be a problem seeing as the jeep drag link adjuster sleeve is smaller and thinner.
if i drill a hole and use a bolt(s) i will do this at each end where the TREs enter the tube and drill through the tube and the tie rod end. if the welds fail then i have a back up.
i seriously don't think this will be a problem seeing as the jeep drag link adjuster sleeve is smaller and thinner.
#204
04-12-2008
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why are you workin so hard to try an convince them? did they ask to be educated in this thread? everyone builds stuff differently for different reasons. if this was all about a safety issue it would be different, but its not, its a build style thing.
you have stated your position, and they seem to have done their own research. let it go, its their build and its not like it can NEVER changed later.....most guys go thru 3 or 4 sets of axles when they do a SAS anyhow.....
you have stated your position, and they seem to have done their own research. let it go, its their build and its not like it can NEVER changed later.....most guys go thru 3 or 4 sets of axles when they do a SAS anyhow.....
Up 'til this point, Mark, Daniel, and I have been quite grown up and civil with our discussion on the given topic. I personally could give a **** what you think of my discussion with other members who are in the process of such a project. I held back from replying to your nonsense comment for awhile because it just pissed me off having a 3rd party tell me off. Of course this is the internet, so anyone can say anything. I did my project the way I did it, have been content and have had nothing but success with it. That is why I was pressing my point so much. If someone doesn't want to take any advise I give, I could care less, because it doesn't affect me. If my advise is taken and used, well then great, I'm glad to have helped.
#205
04-12-2008
I'm not gonna start an arguement on someone else's thread, so I'll just say this..
Up 'til this point, Mark, Daniel, and I have been quite grown up and civil with our discussion on the given topic. I personally could give a **** what you think of my discussion with other members who are in the process of such a project. I held back from replying to your nonsense comment for awhile because it just pissed me off having a 3rd party tell me off. Of course this is the internet, so anyone can say anything. I did my project the way I did it, have been content and have had nothing but success with it. That is why I was pressing my point so much. If someone doesn't want to take any advise I give, I could care less, because it doesn't affect me. If my advise is taken and used, well then great, I'm glad to have helped.
Up 'til this point, Mark, Daniel, and I have been quite grown up and civil with our discussion on the given topic. I personally could give a **** what you think of my discussion with other members who are in the process of such a project. I held back from replying to your nonsense comment for awhile because it just pissed me off having a 3rd party tell me off. Of course this is the internet, so anyone can say anything. I did my project the way I did it, have been content and have had nothing but success with it. That is why I was pressing my point so much. If someone doesn't want to take any advise I give, I could care less, because it doesn't affect me. If my advise is taken and used, well then great, I'm glad to have helped.
#206
04-12-2008
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#207
04-12-2008
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i spend almost a full hour today at work looking at the MOOG catalog.
they do not make a sleeve long enough to accept the ford thread, its 20mmx1.5
and there is also no tie rod combo that will give me the 32 inches i need.
so i am going to try the wrangler stuff, it is the perfect length i need, but the taper is a tad smaller then the ranger pitman arm. so i can do what zach said and put some welds in the hole then ream it out OR see if the jeep pitman arm will work on the ranger box.
no need to get your panties in a bunch Kevin. you did yours your way, i am doing this my way. again we are on a budget. you (or you rents) have deeper pockets then i do ok.
they do not make a sleeve long enough to accept the ford thread, its 20mmx1.5
and there is also no tie rod combo that will give me the 32 inches i need.
so i am going to try the wrangler stuff, it is the perfect length i need, but the taper is a tad smaller then the ranger pitman arm. so i can do what zach said and put some welds in the hole then ream it out OR see if the jeep pitman arm will work on the ranger box.
no need to get your panties in a bunch Kevin. you did yours your way, i am doing this my way. again we are on a budget. you (or you rents) have deeper pockets then i do ok.
#210
04-12-2008
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i spend almost a full hour today at work looking at the MOOG catalog.
they do not make a sleeve long enough to accept the ford thread, its 20mmx1.5
and there is also no tie rod combo that will give me the 32 inches i need.
so i am going to try the wrangler stuff, it is the perfect length i need, but the taper is a tad smaller then the ranger pitman arm. so i can do what zach said and put some welds in the hole then ream it out OR see if the jeep pitman arm will work on the ranger box.
no need to get your panties in a bunch Kevin. you did yours your way, i am doing this my way. again we are on a budget. you (or you rents) have deeper pockets then i do ok.
they do not make a sleeve long enough to accept the ford thread, its 20mmx1.5
and there is also no tie rod combo that will give me the 32 inches i need.
so i am going to try the wrangler stuff, it is the perfect length i need, but the taper is a tad smaller then the ranger pitman arm. so i can do what zach said and put some welds in the hole then ream it out OR see if the jeep pitman arm will work on the ranger box.
no need to get your panties in a bunch Kevin. you did yours your way, i am doing this my way. again we are on a budget. you (or you rents) have deeper pockets then i do ok.
That little rant was in no way directed toward you. I just had a piece on my mind and I had to get it out. It was a misunderstanding anyhow!I'm glad to see your project going as good as it is. Get 'er out and on the street already!
#211
04-13-2008
...so i am going to try the wrangler stuff, it is the perfect length i need, but the taper is a tad smaller then the ranger pitman arm. so i can do what zach said and put some welds in the hole then ream it out OR see if the jeep pitman arm will work on the ranger box...
#212
04-13-2008
#214
04-13-2008
AFCO's site: http://www.afabcorp.com/AFCO_Dynatec...T&Store_Code=A
this is the adapter bushing we used:
http://www.afabcorp.com/AFCO_Dynatec...rd-ball-joints
you may just wanna give them a call as thier website is not very easy to navigate. they may have sumthin that will work for the tapers you are workin with.
this is the adapter bushing we used:
http://www.afabcorp.com/AFCO_Dynatec...rd-ball-joints
you may just wanna give them a call as thier website is not very easy to navigate. they may have sumthin that will work for the tapers you are workin with.
#215
04-13-2008
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#217
04-13-2008
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its gonna stay the height it is for a long time.
tuesday i will try to get the rear level
spent most of the day getting the brakes working. had to make a few trips to get new brake hoses. the ones daniel got with the calipers were no good.
had to get a T fitting and run a few new hard lines, the jeep lines are different, the passenger side on the ranger is fed from a built in T on the drivers side brake hose.
tuesday i will try to get the rear level
spent most of the day getting the brakes working. had to make a few trips to get new brake hoses. the ones daniel got with the calipers were no good.
had to get a T fitting and run a few new hard lines, the jeep lines are different, the passenger side on the ranger is fed from a built in T on the drivers side brake hose.
#220
04-13-2008
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#224
04-13-2008
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