Wait... another SniperX103 project?
Thanks for the kind words, jerk!
I welded them up. It took some playing with it to get it to weld right. First hole I did I had to about a size of a quarter before I figure out how to close it up. Basically, I ended up having the gun pointed almost directly into the sheet metal, and built up a little wall on one side. Then just spot weld it until it's closed up, then grind it down again. I may remove the last two badges before I paint it up, so if I do, I'll take some photos.
EDIT:
Another quick update. Just ordered up a rollpan since I'm going to be painting anyway.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-09...Q5fAccessories
We'll see how this turns out.
EDIT:
Another quick update. Just ordered up a rollpan since I'm going to be painting anyway.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-09...Q5fAccessories
We'll see how this turns out.
Last edited by Rooks; Nov 8, 2010 at 02:21 PM.
Another quick update.
I have placed an order for Discs from a Mustang GT as well as pads so I should be able to complete the rear disc conversion soon from the local Advanced Auto (sweet deal with Promo Code LC123).
Also, put in the order for a DDM HID Conversion Kit (9007 Hi/Low Bulb, 5000K color).
Going to be a fun couple days when all this arrives.
I have placed an order for Discs from a Mustang GT as well as pads so I should be able to complete the rear disc conversion soon from the local Advanced Auto (sweet deal with Promo Code LC123).
Also, put in the order for a DDM HID Conversion Kit (9007 Hi/Low Bulb, 5000K color).
Going to be a fun couple days when all this arrives.
It's getting fixed!
Well I swung by the local Auto Body Supplies Store last night (Welle Auto Supply) and talked this paint job over with the guy there since I've got little to know experience with this. Anyway, here's what he was recommending.
Gallon of Evercoat Light Weight Short Strand Bondo - $50
- Not sure if I need a Gallon of it so I may go with a smaller can.
Gallon of Generic Epoxy Primer - $100
Can of Generic Primer Catalyst - $30
Gallon of PPG Primer - $175
Can of PPG Catalyst - $55
- He was trying to tell me that I should primer the entire truck and I don't need any primer sealer. From my understanding, I could get away with just doing primer around the fenders, then doing a primer sealer on the entire truck, but I need to do some research on this. He also gave me an expensive option for primer (the PPG brand stuff instead of Generic) that he said would shoot better (but again he was assuming I'd primer the whole truck).
Gallon of 6226 "Screaming Yellow" Ford PPG Yellow Paint - $200
Can of Reducer - $30
- This seemed pretty straight forward since I knew the color.
Gallon of Generic High Solids Urethane Clear Coat - $75
Can of Generic Clear Coat Hardener - $55
Gallon of Low VOC Clear Coat - $270
Can of Hardener - $110
- Again, he gave me a generic brand option and an expensive option, swearing by the expensive option again.
Like I said, I think I my biggest question was on the primer. He told me that I wouldn't even need a Primer Sealer, but at the same token, if it's cheaper to just use primer on the fenders then do a Primer Sealer, that's the route I'm going to go.
All said and done, the guy was saying a full paint job on the cheap side would be $600, and for a nice one we'd be looking at $1100-$1200. I'm going to swing around to a couple other stores and see what they recommend and see how their pricing is as that's a little more then I was hoping to spend. We'll see how this works. I may just have to suck it up and pony up the dough.
Gallon of Evercoat Light Weight Short Strand Bondo - $50
- Not sure if I need a Gallon of it so I may go with a smaller can.
Gallon of Generic Epoxy Primer - $100
Can of Generic Primer Catalyst - $30
Gallon of PPG Primer - $175
Can of PPG Catalyst - $55
- He was trying to tell me that I should primer the entire truck and I don't need any primer sealer. From my understanding, I could get away with just doing primer around the fenders, then doing a primer sealer on the entire truck, but I need to do some research on this. He also gave me an expensive option for primer (the PPG brand stuff instead of Generic) that he said would shoot better (but again he was assuming I'd primer the whole truck).
Gallon of 6226 "Screaming Yellow" Ford PPG Yellow Paint - $200
Can of Reducer - $30
- This seemed pretty straight forward since I knew the color.
Gallon of Generic High Solids Urethane Clear Coat - $75
Can of Generic Clear Coat Hardener - $55
Gallon of Low VOC Clear Coat - $270
Can of Hardener - $110
- Again, he gave me a generic brand option and an expensive option, swearing by the expensive option again.
Like I said, I think I my biggest question was on the primer. He told me that I wouldn't even need a Primer Sealer, but at the same token, if it's cheaper to just use primer on the fenders then do a Primer Sealer, that's the route I'm going to go.
All said and done, the guy was saying a full paint job on the cheap side would be $600, and for a nice one we'd be looking at $1100-$1200. I'm going to swing around to a couple other stores and see what they recommend and see how their pricing is as that's a little more then I was hoping to spend. We'll see how this works. I may just have to suck it up and pony up the dough.
Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Fort Collins, Co
Are you planning on repainting the whole truck given that you're only did body work to remove the fender flares and emblems on the tailgate. You planning on shaving door/tailgate handle as well? Overall the paint prices don't seem too far off for a full paint. I went with PPG on all my stuff though I only primed my truck in certain areas where I'd sanded down to metal to remove scratches and such which the hood was covered in 1/8" little tick scratches that had to be removed. Then I sealed the whole thing with a sealer primer before painting it. Pics of before, with primer sealer on, and after can be found on my profile if interested.
Ok I'm late to the thread too, but heres my 2 cents... (fyi, I work for a paint company. Not PPG, but a major one)
Well I swung by the local Auto Body Supplies Store last night (Welle Auto Supply) and talked this paint job over with the guy there since I've got little to know experience with this. Anyway, here's what he was recommending.
Gallon of Evercoat Light Weight Short Strand Bondo - $50
- Not sure if I need a Gallon of it so I may go with a smaller can.
Gallon would be cheaper in the long run. Otherwise it's sold by the quart and that won't go too far. I recommend Rage Gold from Evercoat if you can swing the cash
Gallon of Generic Epoxy Primer - $100
Can of Generic Primer Catalyst - $30
Gallon of PPG Primer - $175
Can of PPG Catalyst - $55
- He was trying to tell me that I should primer the entire truck and I don't need any primer sealer. From my understanding, I could get away with just doing primer around the fenders, then doing a primer sealer on the entire truck, but I need to do some research on this. He also gave me an expensive option for primer (the PPG brand stuff instead of Generic) that he said would shoot better (but again he was assuming I'd primer the whole truck).
Tell him to get his head out of his *** about primering the whole truck. If you are just gonna spot in some areas there is NO reason to primer the whole thing! Along with painting on top of a solid foundation (oem paint) you won't have to buy as much basecoat to cover the repairs. Instead of a gallon of basecoat, you might be able to get away with a quart or two. (not sure how much work you have going on over the whole truck) I would recommend a white primer. White will be easier to cover with the yellow base. Yellow doesn't cover for crap.
Gallon of 6226 "Screaming Yellow" Ford PPG Yellow Paint - $200
Can of Reducer - $30
- This seemed pretty straight forward since I knew the color.
Seems really cheap for a gallon of basecoat. Is it Omni brand basecoat? It's a PPG line, but it's their budget line. It won't cover for crap, but it's a solid color so as long as it matches it should be fine
Gallon of Generic High Solids Urethane Clear Coat - $75
Can of Generic Clear Coat Hardener - $55
Gallon of Low VOC Clear Coat - $270
Can of Hardener - $110
- Again, he gave me a generic brand option and an expensive option, swearing by the expensive option again.
Here is where I agree with him. Don't cheap out on the clear! The clear is the ONLY part of the paintjob that is exposed to the elements so why cheap out there? My general rule is to use a quality clearcoat and you can scrimp on the basecoat if it is a SOLID color. Metallics.... I would probably make sure to use good stuff all around
Like I said, I think I my biggest question was on the primer. He told me that I wouldn't even need a Primer Sealer, but at the same token, if it's cheaper to just use primer on the fenders then do a Primer Sealer, that's the route I'm going to go.
FWIW, Primers and primer sealers aren't all that different in functionality. Main difference is that primers are higher build and are meant to be sanded prior to basecoat application. Sealers are typically meant to be a low build product that will NOT be sanded prior to applying color. Because it will not be sanded it will usually be done within a certain window of time before being painted (typically immediately before while in the spray booth.) PPG's DP series Epoxy primers are a quality product and are also considered a 'sealer'. Once again however, as long as the majority of your car is not going to have body work done on it, I see no reason to primer and paint the entire vehicle.
All said and done, the guy was saying a full paint job on the cheap side would be $600, and for a nice one we'd be looking at $1100-$1200. I'm going to swing around to a couple other stores and see what they recommend and see how their pricing is as that's a little more then I was hoping to spend. We'll see how this works. I may just have to suck it up and pony up the dough.
Just remember this.... good paint jobs aren't cheap, and cheap paint jobs aren't good.
Gallon of Evercoat Light Weight Short Strand Bondo - $50
- Not sure if I need a Gallon of it so I may go with a smaller can.
Gallon would be cheaper in the long run. Otherwise it's sold by the quart and that won't go too far. I recommend Rage Gold from Evercoat if you can swing the cash
Gallon of Generic Epoxy Primer - $100
Can of Generic Primer Catalyst - $30
Gallon of PPG Primer - $175
Can of PPG Catalyst - $55
- He was trying to tell me that I should primer the entire truck and I don't need any primer sealer. From my understanding, I could get away with just doing primer around the fenders, then doing a primer sealer on the entire truck, but I need to do some research on this. He also gave me an expensive option for primer (the PPG brand stuff instead of Generic) that he said would shoot better (but again he was assuming I'd primer the whole truck).
Tell him to get his head out of his *** about primering the whole truck. If you are just gonna spot in some areas there is NO reason to primer the whole thing! Along with painting on top of a solid foundation (oem paint) you won't have to buy as much basecoat to cover the repairs. Instead of a gallon of basecoat, you might be able to get away with a quart or two. (not sure how much work you have going on over the whole truck) I would recommend a white primer. White will be easier to cover with the yellow base. Yellow doesn't cover for crap.
Gallon of 6226 "Screaming Yellow" Ford PPG Yellow Paint - $200
Can of Reducer - $30
- This seemed pretty straight forward since I knew the color.
Seems really cheap for a gallon of basecoat. Is it Omni brand basecoat? It's a PPG line, but it's their budget line. It won't cover for crap, but it's a solid color so as long as it matches it should be fine
Gallon of Generic High Solids Urethane Clear Coat - $75
Can of Generic Clear Coat Hardener - $55
Gallon of Low VOC Clear Coat - $270
Can of Hardener - $110
- Again, he gave me a generic brand option and an expensive option, swearing by the expensive option again.
Here is where I agree with him. Don't cheap out on the clear! The clear is the ONLY part of the paintjob that is exposed to the elements so why cheap out there? My general rule is to use a quality clearcoat and you can scrimp on the basecoat if it is a SOLID color. Metallics.... I would probably make sure to use good stuff all around
Like I said, I think I my biggest question was on the primer. He told me that I wouldn't even need a Primer Sealer, but at the same token, if it's cheaper to just use primer on the fenders then do a Primer Sealer, that's the route I'm going to go.
FWIW, Primers and primer sealers aren't all that different in functionality. Main difference is that primers are higher build and are meant to be sanded prior to basecoat application. Sealers are typically meant to be a low build product that will NOT be sanded prior to applying color. Because it will not be sanded it will usually be done within a certain window of time before being painted (typically immediately before while in the spray booth.) PPG's DP series Epoxy primers are a quality product and are also considered a 'sealer'. Once again however, as long as the majority of your car is not going to have body work done on it, I see no reason to primer and paint the entire vehicle.
All said and done, the guy was saying a full paint job on the cheap side would be $600, and for a nice one we'd be looking at $1100-$1200. I'm going to swing around to a couple other stores and see what they recommend and see how their pricing is as that's a little more then I was hoping to spend. We'll see how this works. I may just have to suck it up and pony up the dough.
Just remember this.... good paint jobs aren't cheap, and cheap paint jobs aren't good.
Are you planning on repainting the whole truck given that you're only did body work to remove the fender flares and emblems on the tailgate. You planning on shaving door/tailgate handle as well? Overall the paint prices don't seem too far off for a full paint. I went with PPG on all my stuff though I only primed my truck in certain areas where I'd sanded down to metal to remove scratches and such which the hood was covered in 1/8" little tick scratches that had to be removed. Then I sealed the whole thing with a sealer primer before painting it. Pics of before, with primer sealer on, and after can be found on my profile if interested.
Based on the comments you guys are making I think my approach is going to be as follows:
1) Areas where I had to go to bare metal, Bondo it smooth and prime it which some cheaper primer followed by some sanding to make sure it's smooth.
2) Use a Primer Sealer on the entire truck.
3) Spray on the Base Coat.
4) Spray on the higher quality Clear Coat.
So probably around $800 for the entire job.
Well, I ended up giving the truck over to professional for the painting. Just didn't want to chance it. We talked and he was giving me advice on doing it myself, but figured I just didn't have the time and wanted to get it done before the end of January so it's being painted on Friday. Cure over the weekend, and I should have photos by Tuesday or Wednesday next week of the truck back to normal.
So apparently even pros have problems meeting deadlines. The truck hasn't even hit the paint booth. He's still doing prep work. Not sure if that is because I screwed it up more, or what. Looking like I won't even get it back until Wednesday or Thursday of next week now. I'll keep you guys posted.
Truck has been re-acquired and it looks great. Found one little run at the very bottom of the front of the passenger side of the bed, but that's about it. I had to be on the floor to see it.
No pictures until tomorrow as the cable for the camera is in my work laptop bag at work. Still have some work to do. Before I put this project on hold and start tearing into Project Unknown. Final items that I have are (in no particular order):
Once I get those done, I'll clean out the garage, re-organize the tools, and start FINALLY assembling the axles for Project Unknown.
No pictures until tomorrow as the cable for the camera is in my work laptop bag at work. Still have some work to do. Before I put this project on hold and start tearing into Project Unknown. Final items that I have are (in no particular order):
- Need to acquire and install new Ranger emblems on the side (sticky crap stayed on the truck when removing them for painting)
- Need to paint the Front Grill black (figured I could handle that since it's plastic)
- Need to install the Rollpan (it was painted, just didn't have to time to grind out the spare tire holder tonight
- Need to install the rear disc brakes
- Need to acquire, paint, and install a new Ford Emblem up front
- Install the Tonneau Cover
- Driver Side Front tire has started rubbing, need to fix that
Once I get those done, I'll clean out the garage, re-organize the tools, and start FINALLY assembling the axles for Project Unknown.
They are. I welded them closed and it finally just got painted last week. Looks like a new truck!
Just read your whole thread. very nice. I can probably help you out with the emblems. (i work at a stealership) i've got a box of 'em just laying around and if i don't got the ones you want, i can probably order them. just send me a PM if your interested.
Here's the pictures for you guys. Had to attach them since I'm out work and they block all sorts of crap now. Luckily R-F hasn't been added to the list yet. Anyway, couple from me doing some prep back in the first week of Januray, followed by some shots from last night after she's all painted. Also, showed the 2 spots for emblems I need (the normal fake chrome Ranger one on the sides, and a big ol' Ford one up front).
Gotta love fat ol' me. Man I look either stoned or unhappy or something...
They are one piece headlights I got off ebay. Just where the "orange" is in that headlight.
PM sent.
