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got down to the crank, camshaft, and timing chain. I promised a few i would keep em updated. heres a few pics
i'll finish the rest in the morning. probably took about an hour to get this far. it seemed too easy to do. I guess thats a good sign for a tough rebuild.
I pulled the battery, and put it on the charger, so I could start it (first time in 6 months)
My ranger is no longer road worthy, the bed completely rusted out, the rear brakes locked up, (while at home in my driveway) and then... I took it off the road (i had major medical problems at the time) that was 2/2018... hope to get it back on the road this spring
I can say however, it never left me stranded, and the brakes only failed after I got home for a 1 week stay at a hospital for sepsis. So I cant really complain
All ready to head to Belleville to pick up the new box this morning and the ol'girl started crying like a baby. Replaced the alternator and the bearing in the idler - got on the road 2 hours late. It was a good trip and the replacement box looks good. $1356 Canadian including tax.24.5MPG (canadian) on the way out - first time it's run without the cap and liner in 24 years --- and 19.3 on the way back with the new box hanging out in the wind - 120Kph + across the top of Hogtown except for a couple slowdowns of 4 or 5 miles each. About 6 small dents on the box and the box lip is a bit scabby from having crappy cap tape but it's off to the paint shop next week. Planning on some spray bed-liner on the inner surface of the "fenders" and wheel wells - not sure if I should do it over the foam bead in the wheel arches or not?? Want to get another 10 years or so out of it.
So far on my 00 3.0 I have replaced fuel pump, replaced burnt out bulbs on dash, replaced abs sensor over rear axle, repaired leaking windshield resevoir, replaced both upper control arms, used rust converter on outside of rear frame, replaced air bag bulb in center floor area, replaced a broken PRNDL cable, replaced cruise button on steering wheel, replaced coolant sensor, replaced both rear bottom door latches, flushed old brake fluid, and replace blower switch in engine compartment. For work I had done, I had new catalytic converter put on front and back.
Decided to take on the heat of the day and tackle some body work this afternoon. Behind the passenger door, where the side panel meets the roof, my 09 DD had a spot missed when it was rebuilt. So I got that taken care of today.
It had already started to create a streak down the back of the cab, so it was time to act. After just a couple minutes with a wire wheel in a dremel tool, the area was down to bare metal. Since the truck is basically rattle-can white, a $5 bill at the local hardware store is all I need to touch it up.
After 4 light coats, the masking comes off and I should be good to go for a few years.
The old girl was "playing Harley" and marking it's territory for the last year or so I finally decided to fix the oil leak.
The leak was from the "O":ring on the oil filter adapter (4.0 OHV) - which seemed like a pretty straight forward job. Got it up on the hoist and found he through bolt could not be removed with the exhaust "Y" pipe in place. With almost 26 years and 376000Km on the clock all 4 12mm exhaust bolts were down to about 6mm and of course they all broke off. NO WAY to get the broken studs out of the manifolds in the truck, so the engine had to come out. The top bell housing bolt would NOT come loose using the "L" joint socket on the breaker bar OR the impact - and no way to get the engine and tranny out together. With the assembly hanging on the lift I was able to get a straight shot at the bolt with the impact and after about 2 minutes of sweating it finally came loose - but the battle wasn't over yet. The dowel pins were seized tight - so we made a jack screw to fit between the block and bell housing to force it apart far enough to get a pry bar in. NINE and a half hours and
it was finally on the bench.
.
Clean as a whip at 376000Km and almost 26 years
Next day I attempted to drill out the studs - with a cobalt bit. Just as the tip started to break through it broke. Now I had a carbide bit stuck in the stud too!!!. I took the torch and VERY carefully blew all 4 studs out of the manifold, leaving all the threads intact in the manifold - a quick pass through with the 12mm tap and the manifolds were ready for the new studs. (I had considered replacing the manifolds - only about $90 - but the manifold bolts are $18 each and there are 12 of them - - - - and they are single use - and how many would I break off in the heads - - - - ?)
While I had the engine out I pulled the intakes and replaced the leaky lower gaskets - and the water pump had the 376000km wobbles - no leaks - yet - but obvious play - and while it was out of the engine bay there was no better time to replace it. The engine was cleaner inside than many 5 year old engines I have had apart. Got it all back together and in, put it on the hoist to install the tranny and BOOOM!!!
Over 50 years of wrenching without a hoist mishap, and one of the hoist arms "kicked", dropping the truck onto the arms on one side (The arm lock plunger wasn't engaged - - - ). It racked the hoist enough we could not get the safety to release to get it down so had to lift it with the fork lift - - and then replace the concrete anchors holding the post to the floor . That slowed things down a bit. Thankfully the damage to the front of my new box could be pulled out by hand, with a little hammering on the front skirt of the box, and most of the curl in the rocker pulled out with a bit of persuasion. The yellow paint from the hoist arms is still there to remind me The heat shield on the "Y" pipe had been buzzing for a while - and when O checked to see if I could just use a clamp or had to weld it I found the heat shield had worn right through the pipe - - - Welded a patch on the pipe and clamped the shield on at both ends. I used brass nuts to install the pipe in case I'm the next poor sucker who has to take it off in another 10 years or so. Not sure if it was dropping the pipe when I took it off or a problem from Mig welding it, but a few days after getting it back together the CEL came on -indicating a dead O2 sensor. I replaced it and then got the dreaded P1443 code - traced to a hose connection that got "tweaked" when the engine came out and was solved with a couple small spring hose clamps..
It's been running great for the last month and I put the "winter boots" on, ready for whatever winter has in store.
Since I gave my DD a 'stache a couple weeks ago, I added a pair of eyebrows.
@Ranger480 Why do you and others keep posting stuff about your trucks in this thread ? This thread is about DimeWylde tearing down a 302 V-8 , and is over 10 years old.
@Ranger480 Why do you and others keep posting stuff about your trucks in this thread ? This thread is about DimeWylde tearing down a 302 V-8 , and is over 10 years old.
When none of you are working on a V-8
It appears the forum is messing up. I was on the "What did you do" thread and it brought me here.
Don't ask me to explain it. I'm not the owner or tech support for the site.
I replaced the front rotors, calipers, wheel bearings, brake pads, and flushed the brake system yesterday. Needless to say, I woke up today pretty sore lol. The job took a lot longer than I thought it would since I had to make several trips on foot to the auto parts store nearby.
(Before) Driver's side with the original hardware still in place. (After) Passenger's side with the new hardware installed.
2002 Ranger Edge 3.0-new plugs, wires, coil, IAC, MAF, air filter, radiator, water pump, thermostat, hoses and fuzzy dice on the rearview to impress the girls. Am I broke yet?
I used The app Forscan and a wired obdii connector on my 2008 to turn off the tpms system. I bought the truck with no sensors installed and the dash light was always annoying flashing at me. I was able to easily disable the tpms by changing one letter in the as built section of the gem module. Now Ive got no more tpms light. Yay. Also I did the same for my 2010 ford fusion as its got aftermarket wheels and tires with no sensors either. It was easier as I didnt have to mess with any special codes in the as built section. There was a section that just listed a bunch of options to turn on and off with a check box, tpms being one of them. Thanks to the guys at forscan. I always used the forscan lite on my phone for troubleshooting but this was the first time I used the windows version. It was quite the success. I think the F150 community is responsible for much of the translations of As built data into easily read check box style changing. So Thanks to them too.
I finally got my spare tire mounted. I bought this '88 XLT from my daughter who got it from her mom, my Ex, and neither of them ever had a spare. I even rigged up a locking system that works pretty well.
@Ranger480 Why do you and others keep posting stuff about your trucks in this thread ? This thread is about DimeWylde tearing down a 302 V-8 , and is over 10 years old.
When none of you are working on a V-8
I received an email form Ranger-Forums.com telling me a comment was added to the thread "What did you do to your Ranger today?" and when I clicked the link provided it took me here.
