1" & 3" Body Lifts General discussion of body lifts for the Ford Ranger.

2 Inch Body Lift Project

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Old Sep 12, 2012
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2 Inch Body Lift Project

Hi guys! I will be moving forward with a 2inch BL! I found 2x3 pucks and that bascially was the sign for me to go for it! I have not ordered them yet because I wanted to know specifically what else I would need... I have read the other 2" BL thread right below this one but it doesnt really answer my questions.
First, After recieving the pucks in the mail, can I unbolt the cab and bed and all and take the stock bolts out then measure them and add 2" then head over to Home Depot or do i need some different measurement/length and does HD sell the right grade of bolts?
Second, I heard that the front bumper can be lifted buy using the stock bracket but that was read in a 1" BL thread, will it be sufficent enough for 2"?
Third, The rear bumper, does anyone know where i can pick up JUST a lift bracket for a rear bumper? I unfortunatley do not have any metal working tools to fabricate one.
Lastly, nothing else needs to be modified correct? No filler hose for gas line or brake lines? Im an automatic so i should be fine with shift extension but would i need a steering extension or could i do without it?
Thanks guys for everything!

Spence

2" Lift Pucks:
Zone Offroad Bulk 2" Tall x 3" Wide Body Lift Block : Amazon.com : Automotive Zone Offroad Bulk 2" Tall x 3" Wide Body Lift Block : Amazon.com : Automotive
 
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Old Sep 12, 2012
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tractor supply sells garde 8 bolts of all length
 
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Old Sep 12, 2012
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Thanks for the reply! I was avoiding buying the bolts online, just because i would have to take apart the truck to measure them all then order the bolts and wait a few days because there are no tractor supplies in the area, i was hoping i could make it a saturday project... Do they have to be Grade 8?
 
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Old Sep 12, 2012
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lowes, home depot, and your auto store should all have grade 8 bolts
 
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Old Sep 12, 2012
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it will probably take you longer to do than a 3" lift because you're not buying a full kit. I'd definitely get at least grade 8 bolts
 
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Old Sep 12, 2012
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Okay grade 8, check. Can anyone else shed any light on my other questions. Im not quite concerned on time, i just didnt want to have my truck dismantled waiting for parts to come in the mail.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2012
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Originally Posted by Romaswake
Hi guys! I will be moving forward with a 2inch BL! I found 2x3 pucks and that bascially was the sign for me to go for it! I have not ordered them yet because I wanted to know specifically what else I would need... I have read the other 2" BL thread right below this one but it doesnt really answer my questions.
First, After recieving the pucks in the mail, can I unbolt the cab and bed and all and take the stock bolts out then measure them and add 2" then head over to Home Depot or do i need some different measurement/length and does HD sell the right grade of bolts?
Second, I heard that the front bumper can be lifted buy using the stock bracket but that was read in a 1" BL thread, will it be sufficent enough for 2"?
Third, The rear bumper, does anyone know where i can pick up JUST a lift bracket for a rear bumper? I unfortunatley do not have any metal working tools to fabricate one.
Lastly, nothing else needs to be modified correct? No filler hose for gas line or brake lines? Im an automatic so i should be fine with shift extension but would i need a steering extension or could i do without it?
Thanks guys for everything!

Spence

2" Lift Pucks:
Zone Offroad Bulk 2" Tall x 3" Wide Body Lift Block : Amazon.com : Automotive
1.) You could, or since I have the 3" BL kit waiting to be installed I will measure them for you here in the next couple days and tell you my measurements, and you can just remove 1" from them..

2.) I doubt it(I have a 98, didnt see what year your's is) but my bumper is not adjustable up/down..

3.) I would personally make up a schematic for it(just use card board) and then take it to a metal/welding shop and have them make you one out of 1/4" or 3/8" steel.. Should be quite easy actually..

4.) From what I've read the steering extension is not needed even for a 3" since it is telescopic and it should reach fine. I dont know of any other extenders, maybe the filler neck, brake lines will be fine, they don't even need extened with the 3" JUST BE CAREFUL WITH THEM!!
 
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Old Sep 13, 2012
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https://www.ranger-forums.com/suspen...ngs-mo-135596/

This guy is selling rear bumper bracket for a 3" bl, you could probably make it work for your 2", or figure some ideas out..
 
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Old Sep 13, 2012
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Originally Posted by ob269
https://www.ranger-forums.com/suspen...ngs-mo-135596/

This guy is selling rear bumper bracket for a 3" bl, you could probably make it work for your 2", or figure some ideas out..
Perfect!!! I PM'd him so well see what happens! I'll hopefully be ordering the lift blocks tonight and installing next weekend! I'll give home depot and lowes a call tonight and see if they sell grade 8, there has to be somewhere in Washington,DC that does sell them so im not to worreid about that anymore.
Last thing! Do the break lines stretch when flexed??? I do plan to off road a good bit once i get my 33's mounted but have never heard anything about brake lines being an issue when flexing, but its always been in the back of my head! Thanks guys!
 
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Old Sep 13, 2012
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Brake lines will be fine.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2012
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your brake lines are ran in such a way right now that you have almost an extra foot and a half of line that is able to compensate for lift. So as the truck goes up GENTLY unbend the lines a little. They are fragile. but yes they will reach
 
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Old Sep 13, 2012
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Alrighty, is there any specific way to unbend them? Like DONT use needlenose pliers or something like that?
 
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Old Sep 13, 2012
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check out 'Body Lift extravaganza' on this site. should have info. if not pictures as well! but just use your hand and slightly "uncoil" them. once oyu see what youre working with its beyond easy
 
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Old Sep 14, 2012
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Alright guys! Thanks for everything! I just ordered the 2" lift so ill be updating you soon, or check out my build thread!

https://www.ranger-forums.com/projec...-build-135557/
 
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Old Sep 14, 2012
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just remember the bolts you need are metric.12mm x 1.75
 
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Old Sep 14, 2012
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From what I've read the steering extension is not needed even for a 3" since it is telescopic and it should reach fine.
On my 2003 truck, the unmodified telescoping steering shaft will not accommodate anything beyond a 1" body lift. Even that is pushing it because there is considerable movement between the cab and frame (rubber body mounts) and the telescoping shaft should have the ability to take up that movement without reaching the end of its travel. Of course, there will be some variation truck to truck due to tolerance stack-up but I doubt that any Ranger would allow a properly set up 2~3" body lift without a steering shaft extension.



Originally Posted by Romaswake
Do they have to be Grade 8?
You can't use Grade 8 for these because the OE threads are M12x1.75 metric and Grade 8 is not a metric classification.




APPROXIMATE strength equivalents between some common ISO metric and SAE fasteners:


Metric Class 4.6
SAE Grade 1

Metric Class 5.8
SAE Grade 2

Metric Class 8.8
SAE Grade 5

Metric Class 9.8
between Grade 5 and 8, no common SAE equivalent

Metric Class 10.9
SAE Grade 8


So, if a metric bolt is needed that has properties similar to an SAE Grade 8, choose a metric Class 10.9.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2012
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Originally Posted by rwenzing
On my 2003 truck, the unmodified telescoping steering shaft will not accommodate anything beyond a 1" body lift. Even that is pushing it because there is considerable movement between the cab and frame (rubber body mounts) and the telescoping shaft should have the ability to take up that movement without reaching the end of its travel. Of course, there will be some variation truck to truck due to tolerance stack-up but I doubt that any Ranger would allow a properly set up 2~3" body lift without a steering shaft extension.



You can't use Grade 8 for these because the OE threads are M12x1.75 metric and Grade 8 is not a metric classification.




APPROXIMATE strength equivalents between some common ISO metric and SAE fasteners:


Metric Class 4.6
SAE Grade 1

Metric Class 5.8
SAE Grade 2

Metric Class 8.8
SAE Grade 5

Metric Class 9.8
between Grade 5 and 8, no common SAE equivalent

Metric Class 10.9
SAE Grade 8


So, if a metric bolt is needed that has properties similar to an SAE Grade 8, choose a metric Class 10.9.
This is right on the money, couldnt have said it better myself.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2012
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Thanks for the conversion! I'll definatley take note of that! Where can i get a steering extension???? Or do i have to get one fabricated?
 
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Old Nov 9, 2012
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Got my lift blocks! Can anyone answer my question on where i can get a steering extension from? I'm trying to get the lift done in one weekend so i am trying to gather all my parts prior to taking the truck apart. Thanks guys!
 
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Old Nov 10, 2012
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Have you looked at summit for it yet?
 
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Old Nov 10, 2012
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they wont have it, only the shifter extension for manual trucks. Call them, maybe they'll send you one who knows.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2012
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Hey all,
This past weekend i was planning on doing the lift yet once again ran into speed bumps... i said screw it and just ordered some new bolts online and they should be here no later than monday... In the meantime ive dismantled the truck so shes all ready to go for the lift, but i have one last set of questions...

1. Radiator... I recall reading something about the radiator shroud hitting the fan with someones lift and i am kind of concerned because out of the 3 different directions ive printed out for a 3" lift as a basis, they all include radiator "brackets". Will i be okay?
 
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Old Nov 29, 2012
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Originally Posted by Romaswake
Radiator... I recall reading something about the radiator shroud hitting the fan with someones lift and i am kind of concerned because out of the 3 different directions ive printed out for a 3" lift as a basis, they all include radiator "brackets". Will i be okay?
No. In the original configuration, there is only about an inch or so of clearance between each fan blade and the shroud. Raise the body (and radiator) 2" relative to the engine/frame and it will definitely hit.

[Actually, since the engine and body move around on their rubber mounts and the frame flexes, even a 1" body lift would be asking for trouble without relocating the rad/shroud. Yes, I know people have done the 1" lift without a radiator adjustment but I doubt that the fan would NEVER hit, especially off road. The static fan-to-shroud clearance was put there by the designers to allow for the flex and the 1" lift reduces it to near zero on the bottom.]
 
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Old Nov 29, 2012
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darn... well I am going to need to find a solution for this problem, any input? do I need to get a bracket made or can I use the 2 extra BL spacers I have and stick them under it? Any type of input will be greatly appreciated!
 
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Old Nov 29, 2012
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Since the body is going up 2 inches, the fan shroud or shroud/radiator needs to drop 2 inches lower to align with the engine fan. You could probably make a set of brackets to do one or the other.

An alternative could be to convert to an electric fan but that is another can of worms.

Have you figured out a steering extension yet? You won't be able to do a 2" lift without it.

What about bumper brackets?

All of these little things added together is why most people go with the complete 3" kit instead. Only an inch different and easier.
 
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