Hey guys, im going to be double-lifted soon. My question is should I use 4" Leafs with factory blocks or 6" Leafs with no blocks? My lift arrived today, so I am trying to order the leafs.

 

Do you want a fair amount of 'rake'?

I'm running the 6" Skyjacker leaf setup (no blocks) with my 5.5" RCD coilover setup & the *** rides a tad high.

Not sure I would like the setup if my front was lifted only 4" like the Superlift does - especially since it's not adjustable like the coilover setup allows.

 

The ranger has stock 2.5 inch block I believe? (before 08) So if you removed it and put in 6 inch leafs then that would put you at 3.5 inches higher over stock.. The superlift lifts the front 4 inches so it should be an overall pretty even lift from how it sits now. But that being said, I don't have the leafs on my truck and I am coming from just doing some basic math and not personal experience.

 

I am running a Superlift with the 6" Skyjacker FR36S springs, no blocks, stock shackles and no t-bar crank. It sits with a slight tail high rake similar to the way it came from the factory. You could always just bump the front bars to level it if you want. I recommend going with the 6" springs and booting the blocks.

 

Why do you recommend it? Also I am going with coiovers when I put my lift on

 

No blocks is always better than blocks.

 

^This. If getting rid of the stock blocks is in your budget while lifting your truck, go for it.

 

Lift blocks increase the amount of leverage placed on the rear springs which tends to promote axle wrap, wheel hop, etc. It is not really an issue for a vehicle in stock form but as you add larger tires, traction aiding differentials and more horsepower the side effects can be amplified. This applies regardless of whether you are running the factory t-bars or a coil-over conversion setup in the front.

 

@logan03CO
Did you have any problems installing the fr36s leafs? Some are saying that the from bolt is a different size. My truck is an 03' so I was looking to get a direct comparison from you before I execute this next weekend. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

No installation problems at all and have been running them hard for many years. The factory front hanger bolts on late model Rangers will not fit the smaller FR36S spring eye. I simply went to the dealer and picked up a set of bolts and retainer nuts for the pre-98 gen rangers. Everything bolted up clean, torqued them to spec and haven’t looked back since!

 

What about the eyelet hole on the spring hanger, is it not larger thus allowing the bolt to move around?

 

It is a little larger but once you torque down the bolt everything is held in place. I have been running these springs fully loaded on washboard roads, off-road, towing trailers, etc. for years and have never had any noise or issues. I am pretty sure there are several others on the forum that are running the same setup without any issues as well. As a note it is also a good idea to do your final bolt torque with the truck back on the ground standing on its feet.

 

Ranger Lift Chapter 5: Leaf Spring Swap Overview & Prep | Pierre Séguin

This post may be useful for you. I had some 9/16" extra thick washers welded onto the hanger to eliminate rattling.

 

I used the SkyJacker 6" Leaf without any blocks.
With the SuperLift Lift and Coil Overs the height came out ok.
IF you have a rear sway bar disconnect it and check the ride, after the lift my ride was bad, way too much bump steer in the rear.
I re-geared, and replace my rear axle with a 31 spline setup, removed the sway bar and wham Bam ride improved almost 100 percent.