I have a 1994 ranger 4x4 about 3 weeks ago my pass front caliper stuck so i went and got a new caliper and put it on it then needed a master cylinder so i went through pit the new caliper master cylinder and new braided lines on the front and everything was working as it should now all of a sudden i was driving and my both front calipers started sticking to the point i could barely drive because they were locked i then let it sit for a few hours and go to drive it and it is fine then maybe a day or two later same problem i dont k ow what it could be help?

 

Anyone that can help??

 

1994 Ranger should have two brake lines out of the Master Cylinder one for the front and one for the rear so Proportioning Valve is in the master.

The front brakes get 70% of the brake pressure, the rear 30%

If you have replaced the caliper' flexible brake lines then the only thing left is a bad Power Booster.
Inside the cab on the power booster is an "atmosphere valve", when you apply pressure to brake pedal this valve opens and lets the 15psi of air pressure in which "boosts" your foot pressure since power booster has -15psi pressure created by engine vacuum.
There is also a spring inside the power booster to return valve and push rod to "normal" position when your foot is off the brake.
Valve or springs can fail which won't let master release pressure to brakes, you feel it more on the front because or the 70/30 proportioning.

To test this, after front brakes are locked or dragging shut off engine slightly push down on brake pedal 5 times, this will remove the vacuum on the power booster, or just remove the power booster's hose and check valve, have to take out the check valve or vacuum won't be released.
See if brakes are released now, if so replace power booster.

Now a long shot is something in the main front brake line that is acting like a valve, so pressure can go into calipers but can't be release when brake pedal is.
Basically you will need to do a "Fluid exchange".

I assume there is new brake fluid in the new master, so start at the drivers side wheel(closest) and bleed caliper until clean clear fluid is coming out.
Then do the same on drivers side.
This will clear the lines of any debris.

 

My new pads seized today, both sides, upon install, can’t be the line acting as a valve because I opened the bleeder and it was still seized. Had to C-clamp the pins to free up, What do you all think?

 

So no fluid came out when you opened the bleeder on either side?

Some fluid should drip out from just gravity feed, i.e. brake fluid running down hill from master, its an open system when your foot is off the brake pedal

When you push down the brake pedal the piston in Master closes off the reservoir on the top and forces fluid thru the lines, when you release brake pedal fluid flows back to master and reservoir and lines are now open, connected together
So if you open any bleeder some fluid should flow out just because Master is higher than the slave/caliper
If not there is a blockage some where(or you have a problem with 4 wheel ABS, lol)

Or you not have adjusted the the boosters push rod correctly, it needs to be just touching the Masters piston not pressing on it or reservoir stays closed off so pressure can't be relieved

It could be the power assist Booster has a failed "atmosphere valve"
In the cab where brake pedal push rod connects to booster is the atmosphere valve
The atmosphere valve is what gives you "power brakes"

The engine vacuum is used to apply negative air pressure to one side if the diaphragm inside the booster
When you press down on brake pedal it opens the atmosphere valve letting in outside air pressure, and this assists you in pressing down on brake pedal

So if atmosphere valve was leaking then it could apply power assist the whole time or get worse over use if its not sealing tight when foot is off the brake pedal

Have engine running and get down on the floor and press brake pedal by hand and see if you hear air being sucked in even when pedal is up all the way

 

no, both sides expressed fluid but both remained locked until I c-clamped the slides

 

Then both "new" calipers are bad or your sliders didn't get greased and locked up at an angle

Caliper brakes have no "return springs" they just loosen their grip when pressure is removed, but still rub slightly
As pads wear down the caliper and/or pads slide in to maintain grip on rotor
There are a few ways that can be set up, but all ways need to be re-greased when replacing pads, high-temp brake grease, not axle grease

If a slider gets locked then pads/caliper can't release

BUT.............since it's both sides it would be a hard call to say its calipers or sliders

Do both sides have Gravity flow now?

 

Yes, both did drain upon pulling the old L/R pistons today. One thing to note, when I took off the old pads the driver side inner pad was totally wore while the outer pad wasn’t. These are the old pistons and pad holder and pins Only the pads and SS clips are new. Getting new complete piston/holders/pins tomorrow and will see. I think you are right, something is definitely jamming. I wonder what is going on exactly…

 

You’ve made me think I will measure the old pads compared to the new pads. Maybe there is something off on the new ones. Thanks for the help RonD…

 

The inside pad will wear faster than outside pad, but not by that much, if there is a big difference then its a caliper or rotor issue