This may be a repeat of other posts asking similar questions, but I would like some new (repeated?) input if possible here....

This is a 2007 4 liter V6 four wheel drive. I am considering entirely removing all the exhaust gas recirculation parts. --Pipes, hoses and sensors... As well as getting a tune, if necessary; for the happy little malfunction indicator on the dash.

I have read it both ways that this has no improvement on performance or mileage, and that it does improve. In the very least, making the intake manifold 'cleaner'. --Less gunk on moving parts of the engine...

I keep the vehicle well serviced and cared for, so the whole of it is in top condition. I know too that the connection of the pipe to the manifold can be a bitch next to impossible to remove without either cutting it or hiring the incredible hulks muscles... But I have also found that Kano Kroil would likely work best at making that pipe easy to remove if the threads are stuck, seized or 'frozen'.

I only use the truck for around town driving. No hills.... And more stop and go than anything else. There is nothing at all wrong with the system, I am just considering removing it entirely, for no particular reason.

Is that all there is to this modification? --Removing pipes, hoses, sensors; adding vacuum caps and tunes? --I have an SCT X4 I could use...

 

EGR is used to cool down cylinder temps when engine is under load, yes HOT exhaust gases used to cool cylinders, lol

When cylinder temps get too high lots of NOx is produced, this is a toxic gas, so EGR was added to keep NOx emissions low
The exhaust gases cause the flame front in the cylinder to spread slower, so reduces the Spike in temperature when you step on the gas or are driving at speed
Computer opens EGR valve based on engine load

As a by-product of reduced cylinder temps engines can use more aggressive spark timing because there would be less pre-ignition with lower cylinder temps
Engines can ping/knock when accelerating because cylinder temps spike, EGR helps to prevent that, that's not why EGR is used, but its a good benefit, lol

Gain in power wouldn't be much, you would need to run 91 or 93 octane to see any improvement, but you would see that anyway since the 4.0l SOHC uses a Knock Sensor, which is usually running advance spark timing when running regular gas, 87 octane
4.0l SOHC uses 9.7:1 compression ratio so can't run 87 octane without a knock sensor to adjust timing

EGR does slow the burning so does effect power, for sure, but power gain would be NIL with 87 octane, the knock sensor would just compensate, reducing power

Not sure what to say about the inside of the intake.............the PCV system would still make it dirty, oily

 

so then ron, would it be then if i dont change the octane value, remove the hoses pipes and sensors, apply a tune, would things be no different than they are with original equipment?

 

No, I don't think you would see a power change running 87 octane, if engine got pingy then of course you would, lol, you would have to backoff the throttle, knock sensor can only do so much
The 9.7:1 compression is the big thing, I think 9.4:1 is about the limit of 87 octane without a knock sensor
That's why the 3.0ls were prone to pinging, they ran 9.3:1 but with even a little carbon build up they would get pingy

You can just disable the EGR valve(pull and plug the vacuum hose) and see what happens, you will get CEL and Codes, but you will find out what to expect with no EGR system, I would do that FIRST
You can then run any tune you want to test at that time

 

alright ron. unlike most other drivers, i dont drive superfast on the interstate, or zip away from a stop. everywhere, i gradually accelerate. and i rarely ever go more than 55 on the interstate. so i believe the throttle is pretty calm with my driving. and i dont plan on changing to different octane gasoline than what ford suggests for this engine.

ive heard/read that different rangers didnt have the exhaust recirclation. i wonder how those were set.... maybe i could mimic that with the 2007 four liter.

i think until i get the kano kroil, the 9G458 plug for the driver side manifold, and the tune in my X4; i will leave it all alone. id rather do an all out modification than partial.

 

I bought 3 diff egr block off plates. The one from Jegs fit perfect. Even brings a new gasket which sat perfectly on rim where the egr used to seal up to. Ran a smoke test to make sure I had no leaks. Truck ran great with one exception it will throw a code but if you have a scanner you can easily turn that code off. Now this is my opinion only but exhaust smell out of tailpipe did increase but I do entirely feel it made my truck feel peppier. This is something ive done in the past with the same outcome every time. Only other way to permanently delete code would be with a Sct or other computer but now were talking 500+. You will also need to cover the hole on the exhaust manifold you can pull the plug off another truck manifold or just order one online. Youll see theres one on the passenger side. Dont cut any sensors off just unplug and tuck harness with zippy ties away if needed very gently. Engine bay does look way cleaner afterwards and you dont worry about a faulty or leaky egr anymore 😛

 

alright thank you easypeazy. i did a quick search at the jegs web site and per a filter for 2007 ranger there was no match. but all aside, they or even the local autozone may have one that will work great like it did for you. thank you.

i do have an SCT X4 scanner, and am already talkin to the guy i bought it from, who loaded it with other tunes about delete tune for this. but yah, thank you!

 

Alright, once I have the exhaust manifold tube (9E469) removed from the manifold, and order the plug (9G458) that is generally installed in the passenger side manifold; would this plug turn in on the threads on the driver side manifold where the tube was installed? or is the thread on the driver side opposite that of whats on passenger side. --will the plug install just fine if ordered for the driver side

 

Plug fits both sides. They are both same thread and same size. I sprayed a little grease on the manifold threads before installing the bolt with my fingers first then use the ratchet 👍

 

okay easy peazy. i just hafta order the plug and some kano kroil to spray on the nut at the bottom of the manifold tube, and it should all come off just fine. --id rather have a new Motorcraft plug, than some grabbed from the junk yard, or a Dorman plug from autozone. :D

ive already removed the valve thing from the intake manifold and put a vacuum cap in the hole . so i just have a 'loose' tube there with the valve still attached at the top, hangin on by that nut at the bottom. the two little differential feedback tubes, are closed off too. the sensor thingy is tweaked so that it shouldnt give any error codes. no tunes applied yet. i may actually not need any for my X4. we shall see.

 

ive checked some videos and some instruction on removing the exhaust gas tube from the manifold, and i cant see how theres enough room in that area still, for any tool. even removing the wheel and the splash shield, the fender itself is also gonna be in the way. --and i really dont wanna remove the fender with how exact and perfect its placement is. maybe, just maybe, if i could get underneath the engine; it might be more accessible. but, i dont have a hoist. just the jack that came with the truck and another sort of jack. but neither can safely raise the vehicle high enough to reach in there to turn those nuts at the bottom of the tube. then maybe i need a special tool. all i have are crescent wrenches. i dont have a double end wrench for that size nut.

what would be the best way to access those nuts in such a limited amount of space?? if i need a special tool, what would that be?? i do not want to simply cut the tube and apply a vacuum cap; in the event i may hafta later reinstall the exhaust gas system. please advise

 

Can you just cap the tube at the EGR Valve end?

I don't have a 2.3l Duratec so don't know the specifics, but these engines were designed to be mounted sideways, so when mounted in a Ranger many parts can be inaccessable without removing the transmission or pulling the engine

 

well ron, i want to remove the tube entirely. ive disconnected and 'redirected' the vacuum at the differential pressure feedback sensor so its not even 'sucking' any exhaust, and the tube itself is quite cool now after having driven. it is already disconnected at the intake manifold, so it just slightly wobbles there. it is now serving no purpose and i want it gone entirely.

my engine is a 4 liter not a 2.3, but here are some pictures of the area needing modification....



there isnt a whole lotta room there for any tool that i have, even with the splash shield and wheel removed. if i had a hoist, i MIGHT be able to get at it from below, but i dont have one. what general tool should i use that would have good leverage to get at the nut(s) at the bottom of the tube?

 

I would be tempted to pull the whole exhaust manifold on that side

But have a look at flare nut crowfoot wrench

 

yeah well, im sure there are gaskets there at the manifold, as well as where it connects to the catalytic a gasket there too. both of which i dont wanna worry about replacing or making sure they are reinstalled properly. --they may not need new replacement, but not someting i wanna bother with.

and regarding the nuts there, of which theres two at the end of that tube; do i just undo the one closest to the manifold? or do i hafta do them both, beginning with the top one???

 

Just remove the first nut on the tube, then get a cap nut that size to seal manifold


Yes, there is a gasket on the manifold to head interface, but no gasket or "doughnut" on the collector(large pipe) interface, just FYI

 

I think I had used an adjustable wrench might have even been a adjustable pipe wrench to get that bolt off. Dont take the manifold off. Im working on my ac lines atm where it connects to the compressor (right in your area) and yeah you should be able get a wrench on that bolt....

 

well ez peaz, per the pictures i attached, not many tools will be able to access that nut, based on one, how close the tool will be to the manifold curvature; and two, the frame rail is right there. it seems to me that the crow wrench ron suggested may work out, as attached to a socket wrench.

 

ron, are you saying the first nut then? at the passenger side there is a cap nut that looks like it goes in the same way that the bottom nut is on the driver side. --when i remove the first nut there at the bottom of the tube, will both nuts turn together??

i have already purchased the same cap nut (new part) that is instaled on the passenger side manifold. and intend to install that cap in the driver side manifold. so, i hope both nuts come out fine from the driver side, just using the wrench on the top nut.

 

I just went and looked at it again and your right there is almost no space and then thats when I remembered I had to get under the truck and put the wrench on it from underneath not from above. Try it out...

 

Alright yall, i finally removed it, and it was SO easy. I was surprised. I also removed it without any of the suggestions from any of you here; tho i do appreciate every one. I didnt even raise the vehicle with any jacks OR remove the driver side wheel. and neither did i use ANY penetrant spray. very nice!!

all i used was an adjustable crescent wrench and a small sledge hammer. i smacked the wrench on the first/top nut, and made it loose enough to turn manually. then i removed the whole tube. it had the valve still installed on the end, to act as a sort of plug for any leaks. with the tube removed, while i didnt have any metric sockets of proper size, i used a one inch socket for the bottom nut, and removed that one just fine too. didnt even need the hammer!

then i got the new plug part i ordered from ford, that is normally put on the passenger side manifold; and installed it in the new hole on the driver side. my ford service manual suggests to set tork to 37 foot pounds. it didnt give a tork measurment for the bottom end of the tube, just the nut that attaches to the valve at the top. but the threads and all are exactly the same at both ends. so i used the same tork setting on the new plug,

i also never boughth a delete kit for this. i simply modified the metal bracket the valve attaches to on the intake, cutting off all the attachment part of it. then i filled the open hole in the bracket with a vacuum cap, and used a little spray on adhesive. and so far, after a few weeks of driving, that cap has remained in place. the remainder of the bracket has a seal on the end that goes into the intake. which itself does a big part of holding the remainder in the intake. it has so far stayed in place. --and no money spent at all on any kit. then, in the event i move someplace that requires emission testing, i have kept all the parts, and a replacement bracket would be cheap enough i can just replace it altogether.

THEN, the differential pressure feedback sensor, i modified such that the vacuum hose thats usually attached to the valve that is part of the exhaust gas tube, i connected that to the Reference port of the sensor. the High port of the sensor, is fully open with no hoses or caps.

that modification was done many weeks ago and i had already checked the computer for error messages, and there have been none. SO, the sensor is doing its job and now there is no exhaust gasa tube installed at all. no exhaust is being redirected, but sent fully out thhrough the muffler. AND, so far, my temperature guage is still staying in the safe levels. it more quickly jumps to the middle section, but eventually goes back to about one third at the left. --all mostly normal operation before this modification.

NOW, we'll just hafta check if this modification does or does not negatively impact my mileage. so far, it seems to be whree its always been.

i am wel satisfied!

 

You got it with an adjustable wrench. I kinda mentioned that...several times...but anyways glad you finally got it done. I might put that sensor back on my truck so I can get rid of my CEL hmmm

 

yah, you may have mentioned that wrench, but i figured for the longest time there wasnt enough room there to get at it, without waiting for a whole day to take the wheel off and lift the truck. a claw wrench was also suggested, but that was waiting for some extra money.

but for kicks and giggles, i tried the adjustable and smacked it with a sledge hammer and that popped it loose with no penetrant. i keep the truck in great repair and care so that may account for not needing penetrant.

if the sensor you are referring to is the differential pressure feedback, thats an easy tweak to avert computer errors. take the vacuum line that attaches to the valve at the top end of this removed tube and connect it to the reference port on the sensor. leave the high port with nothing on it. not even a vacuum cap. leave it open.

with all this, ive yet to get any stalls or engine operation issues. we shall see

 

if you are referring to the differential pressure feedback sensor, just do what i did. take the vacuum line from the top of the valve at the high end of the exhaust tube, and put it on the reference port of the sensor. leave the high end of the sensor open. it should work just fine with no errors.

 

i am having no trouble codes, the malfunction indicator isnt illuminating, i connect my X4 to the computer and get no errors. and while my temperature guage does go to the middle point quicker, it slowly decreases to the left at about a third from all cool. i dont yet know how my mileage is, but its so far seeming to remain where it was before this modification; which is between 17.5 and 22 per gallon. more or less, it seems the motor is going just the same as it was before all this.

so, i am wondering, do i need to bother with having a tune applied??