When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Truck will not stay running without giving it throttle. I installed a new engine it wouldn't idle no check engine light came on i checked fuel pressure holding good at 64 psi replace iac valve tps sensor maf sensor new coil pack plugs and wires still won't stay running i pulled the upper and lower intakes off and the valve covers ran a bead of high temp grey silicone gasket maker thinking air was getting in somehow still nothing i pulled a upstream o2 sensor to check for a clogged cat still nothing... can anyone point me in the right direction
CEL(check engine light) works correct, and no codes I assume?
Air leak will usually cause a high idle, but can cause stalling if its a big enough leak
If you manually hold the throttle open will it stay idling, smoothly?
Or do you keep having to open it more, feathering?
Do you have a vacuum gauge, engine should pull 18-21" at idle
Just wondering if maybe the "new" engine has an overall compression issue, i.e. t6iming chain installed incorrectly
Or have you done a compression test?
160-170psi is expected on a 3.0l Vulcan
Does it run any better after it gets warmed up a bit?
Double check Firing order on the coil pack, easy to mix that up
3 4
2 6
1 5
front
3 2 1
4 6 5
front
1 2 3
5 6 4
front
There are a few orientation
Common thing is 2 and 6 are ALWAYS on the center 2 connections of the coil pack
The 1 and 5, and 3 and 4 at the ends ALWAYS
These are matched sets, its the way the engine is balanced
[3 4]
[2 6]
[1 5]
So if it doesn't work one way then swap 1/5 and 3/4 at the ends
I bought the truck with the motor already locked up... i sprayed some carburetor cleaner at the lower boots of the injectors and it revs up to normal i somehow have air getting past the o-rings..
Double check Firing order on the coil pack, easy to mix that up
3 4
2 6
1 5
front
3 2 1
4 6 5
front
1 2 3
5 6 4
front
There are a few orientation
Common thing is 2 and 6 are ALWAYS on the center 2 connections of the coil pack
The 1 and 5, and 3 and 4 at the ends ALWAYS
These are matched sets, its the way the engine is balanced
[3 4]
[2 6]
[1 5]
So if it doesn't work one way then swap 1/5 and 3/4 at the ends[/QUOTE]
Are there any after market coils that are:
[3 4]
[2 5]
[1 6]
I understand with the 3 coils and three signal wires the plugs fire with every TDC so the cylinders that are 180 off have to be paired to one coil... which you show in your diagram. But I replaced coil, wires, and plugs using that pattern and it would hardly run... rough as hell. Found another diagram online with the straight six pattern, I have shown above, tried it out and smooth again. Still had the same little mis I was trying to get rid of in the first place but back to the way it ran before. The new coil didnt have numbered posts so at first I just used the pattern I found on the old coil pack. Last week I decided to check into again with the covid free time Ive had lately and 5&6 both only have about 30psi. So now I'm wondering if its coincidence or if I fried my valves by having the wires backwards... but why would it run smoother with 2 and 5 paired than it would with 2 and 6. Only thing I can come up with is the aftermarket coil wireing was routed different inside to keep 5 and 6 from breaking the straight 1-6 pattern.
2002 3.0 Edge
Last edited by Osky; Jul 5, 2020 at 05:10 PM.
Reason: Added year and engjne
