I have decided to uograde the old longranger while rebuilding it and am considering adding sideoview and backup cameras. I intend to go with wireledd cameras, which means I don't need to run RCA cables from the doors or the rear of the truck. I only need to add one wire to each door to power the camera and transmitter, and using a few diodes I can have either turn signal or the backup lights trigger the screen.
Now for my question. How easy is it to run an extra light gauge power wire through the "loom" to the door? Is there room to run it through outside the plug in the "swivel" or "boot" that carries the speaker wires, or is there already an extra wire than can be repurposed in the plug, or do I have to dissassemble and re-pin the plug to get the wire into the door? No power windows, locks, or mirrors - the only wires currently requied would appear to be the speaker wires.

I currently have a new box at the paintshop being painted along with the cap, and the bumpers are at the powder coaters being re-coated. I will be replacing the fuel filler hose and may end up replacing the main rear brake line - will be descaling the frame tomorrow and paintin it with Sico Corrostop Ultra after treating it with Phosphoric acid.

I expect I will be intalling the backup camera in the top of the cap - any experience with high mounted vs low mounted (licence plate bracket) camera mounting position???

 

No extra wires in the doors or to the rear of vehicle

You can run 2 wires thru the boot, 12v/key on, and ground wire

You can use Reverse light power but there would be a delay as camera powered up and then connected wirelessly, this wouldn't happen on hard wired video signal
So best to run a 12v/key on power wire to the backup camera so it always connected

Never looked at automotive wireless cameras so can't say as to onscreen selection if using 3 separate cameras

Cab mounted has a blind spot if tailgate is closed, cap mount is good as long as cap stays on full time, bumper mount is good but limited range

 

The cap came off for the first time in 24 years last week to go pick up the new box.
It is common practice to use the backup wire to power the wireless transmitter, and the transmitter sends power to the camera. All 3 cameras will run on the same channel. Only one can be turned on at the same time. This will be "policed" by a relay. If the backup lights are on (and the reverse camera) the power to the side mirror cameras will be disconnected. Diodes will "or" the power signal to the display IF power is required to the fdsplay to turn it on - otherwise it will just power up the receiver - when the Video signal is present the screen comes on. The power to the mirror cameras will be supplied from a magnetic reed switch installed in the steering column - with magnet on the signal lever - to provide an un-interrupted power to the camera when the signal is turned on - instead of flashing. An alternative would be to power a relay through a 555 timer circuit that gets triggered by the signal, and retriggered before it "times out" - that is the fallback solution if the reed switches don't work. With the 555, turning on the 4 ways would cause a garbled signal from 2 transmitters on the same frequency if not in reverse.

 

Never looked into it so I will take your word for it

Not sure the "turning of the wheel" sensors would be a good idea, once you turn the wheel you have already committed to changing lanes, I assume that's the point of side view cameras, eliminate "blind spots"
Turn signal switch would be better in my opinion, because you should activate them BEFORE committing to a lane change in any case

I hate it when people turn on signal WHILE they are changing lanes, really whats the point???
But I do understand why they do it
Sometimes when there is a gap to change lanes I will signal my intent to change lanes and a car will accelerate to PREVENT ME from moving over?????
WTF, cutting me off?
Well they better have an older car and good insurance because my 1994 is movin' on over, lol

 

I have the same problem when driving the semi truck,

They don't understand, I'm not asking permission to move over, I'm telling you I'm moving over.

 

Who said anything about a "turning of the wheel sensor"? What did you miss about magnetic reed switch triggered by magnet on the turn signal lever????
When they accelerate to prevent you turning over is when you want enough power to get in ahead of them regardless what their intention is. (and as you say, if you are driving a clunker it helps - although YOU will get charged for the unsafe lane change.
The "good ol' boys" just "roll coal" when they want to make the move - - - -

 

Sorry, I misread your first post

As long as their car is destroyed and they are uninjured I would be happy with a ticket for that

You can only teach a child so much by talking, eventually there needs to be consequences for bad behavior
Signed THE TEACHER

LOL

 

Truer words were never spoken

 

Well, the wireless transmitter/recievers were JUNK - terrible video quality but the switching between cameras worked fine. I went for hardwired Coolint cameras - VERY good video quality. I also went for using the timers triggered by the signal. I made up a "spider" for the co-ax cables and a similar spider with diodes on the "reverse sense" wire so when one camera is turned on it turns on the screen. I put a NC relay on the power feed to the side cameras so when in reverse the side cameras can not be enabled. Just make sure if you do it to use timers with a RELAY output - active output MOS switching switches the ground - and with chassis ground that doesn't work too well - had to add a relay for each side as well.

The box and cap are back on, as well as the bumpers - with a new high level brake light cut into the cap and 4 LED lights on the ceiling of the cap - along with the bun warmers, 7 inch touch screen Android stereo - and of course, the cameras..
Good for another 8 years????

I'll add pictures in a little while

 

Sounds cool

 

Here's a few pictures:

Cap off for the first time in 24 years!! Note the patch in the rear 1/4 and rust over wheel arches

Replacement "rust free" box

Off to paint

Frame cleaned up ready to paint

Frame descaled and painted

Bob- tailing

Cutting Radio bezel to fit double din head

Notches cut for mounting screws to mount the head unit

head unit mounted - also note the "bun warmer" control switches and the A/C switch (installed A/C about 7 years ago) and the ScanGuage (which has now been relocated to the steering column)

Note the condition of the tracks - 24 years of "rust belt" life - not bad!!

BE CAREFULL!! The little rascal has TEETH!!

Seat base stripped - applying the "bun warmers"

Tucking the heaters into the seat back

cable routed out of the seat base

cable routed out of seat back

Bun warmer wires routed under the floor mat. Note the condition of the floor!

picked up the cap and box from the paint shop

Windows, tailgate, bumper, etc all installed - working on wiring the cap

 

The paint matches a lot better than it looks in the picture - not perfect but not bad for 24 years