cranks but doesnt start
cranks but doesnt start
good evening. I have a good running 160k ford ranger that sits most of the year. I use it as a work truck so the other day I went out to start it and it didnt fire up. I went and picked up a new battery and installed it but it only cranks and doesn't fire. I did notice the voltage gauge is stilll reading lower then normal so I threw a jump box on it and let it charge incase the new battery wasn't full without change....cranks and cranks.
Now the issue is---the ranger is about 2 hours away and I need to get it started and running this weekend, so Im trying to compile a list of tools I may need before I drive out to it along with a list of possible culprits.
1) check if the fuel pump is priming
2) bring ether to spray in the manifold
3) fuses and maybe a new ground wire.
Any known issues common to rangers? Im really hoping I dont have to change a fuel pump this weekend. Heard it could be fuse #24 or the ignition relay which would be ideal.
Now the issue is---the ranger is about 2 hours away and I need to get it started and running this weekend, so Im trying to compile a list of tools I may need before I drive out to it along with a list of possible culprits.
1) check if the fuel pump is priming
2) bring ether to spray in the manifold
3) fuses and maybe a new ground wire.
Any known issues common to rangers? Im really hoping I dont have to change a fuel pump this weekend. Heard it could be fuse #24 or the ignition relay which would be ideal.
Year of Ranger would be helpful
No on fuse 24, it activates starter motor and that's working
Yes, on 50/50 test
Spray fuel(ether) into engine and crank
If it starts and dies then spark is working but no gasoline is being injected
If it doesn't start then Spark is the issue
Look for the CEL(check engine light) to come on with key on, that means computer is booting up
CEL should go OFF when cranking, that means computer is "seeing" crank turning so will start spark and injectors(1995 and up)
If CEL stays on then crank sensor is bad or its wiring, RARE occurrence
When CEL comes on with key you should also HEAR the fuel pump run for 2 seconds, its not quiet, a HUMMMMM from behind the cab
Repeat key OFF and key ON until you hear the pump or decide you do not hear the pump
There is a fuel pump cutoff switch behind glove box inside the cab on firewall, called an inertia switch, has a RED button on the top that will pop up to cut off power to pump, very rare for it to "just pop"
Year of Ranger would be helpful for more info
No on fuse 24, it activates starter motor and that's working
Yes, on 50/50 test
Spray fuel(ether) into engine and crank
If it starts and dies then spark is working but no gasoline is being injected
If it doesn't start then Spark is the issue
Look for the CEL(check engine light) to come on with key on, that means computer is booting up
CEL should go OFF when cranking, that means computer is "seeing" crank turning so will start spark and injectors(1995 and up)
If CEL stays on then crank sensor is bad or its wiring, RARE occurrence
When CEL comes on with key you should also HEAR the fuel pump run for 2 seconds, its not quiet, a HUMMMMM from behind the cab
Repeat key OFF and key ON until you hear the pump or decide you do not hear the pump
There is a fuel pump cutoff switch behind glove box inside the cab on firewall, called an inertia switch, has a RED button on the top that will pop up to cut off power to pump, very rare for it to "just pop"
Year of Ranger would be helpful for more info
For sure not fuse 24
At 20 years old, fuel pump failure is probably best bet
Listen for it for 2 seconds with key on, repeat
There is a fuel pressure test port on passenger side of engine, next to upper intake
It looks like a tires air valve, because it is, a schrader valve, it will have a cap on it just like a tires air valve, take off the cap
After cycling the key on and off a few times press the pin on the test port, be careful, should have 50psi pressure in there, if not fuel pump is not working
Bring a volt meter
Test red wire on coil pack with key on, should be 12v, that means EEC/PCM relay and fuse are OK, CEL coming also means that
1999 V6 Ranger has PATS(passive anti-theft system)
There will be a THEFT light on the dash, if it starts to Flash with key on it means PATS is activated so No Starting allowed
Let it flash and after 45-60 seconds it will flash a 2 digit code number, a 1 followed by 2 to 6 flashes, that tells you why there is a no start from PATS activation
You can get 1999 owners manual here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...1-models-3747/
It will have the engine bay fuse box layout
Fuel pump relay should click with key on then click off after 2 seconds
Fuel pump fuse is also shown
You can pull out the EEC/PCM relay and turn key on
Put your finger on the fuel pump relay and plug the EEC relay back in, you should feel the fuel pump relay "click" closed and then open after 2 seconds
EEC relay powers the fuel pump relay
At 20 years old, fuel pump failure is probably best bet
Listen for it for 2 seconds with key on, repeat
There is a fuel pressure test port on passenger side of engine, next to upper intake
It looks like a tires air valve, because it is, a schrader valve, it will have a cap on it just like a tires air valve, take off the cap
After cycling the key on and off a few times press the pin on the test port, be careful, should have 50psi pressure in there, if not fuel pump is not working
Bring a volt meter
Test red wire on coil pack with key on, should be 12v, that means EEC/PCM relay and fuse are OK, CEL coming also means that
1999 V6 Ranger has PATS(passive anti-theft system)
There will be a THEFT light on the dash, if it starts to Flash with key on it means PATS is activated so No Starting allowed
Let it flash and after 45-60 seconds it will flash a 2 digit code number, a 1 followed by 2 to 6 flashes, that tells you why there is a no start from PATS activation
You can get 1999 owners manual here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...1-models-3747/
It will have the engine bay fuse box layout
Fuel pump relay should click with key on then click off after 2 seconds
Fuel pump fuse is also shown
You can pull out the EEC/PCM relay and turn key on
Put your finger on the fuel pump relay and plug the EEC relay back in, you should feel the fuel pump relay "click" closed and then open after 2 seconds
EEC relay powers the fuel pump relay
So. I did a little work on the truck today. Looked at all the fuses all look good. I realize look means little and ill throw a tester on it i just didnt have one with me.
However. I noticed a few things. Upon first start. No check engine light was present. On 2nd attempt it appeared.
No fuel pump noise at all.
My other concern was....when I go to crank the motor the dash indicator for battery stays on the L line and never goes up. I threw my jump box on the new battery and it reads 12.6 -12.8 but the dash is barely recognizing it at all.
I didnt have my tools w me so I couldnt pull the terminal to clean it or inspect it....but could that be the problem? The battery has enough juice but what if the truck isnt getting enough to do anything
However. I noticed a few things. Upon first start. No check engine light was present. On 2nd attempt it appeared.
No fuel pump noise at all.
My other concern was....when I go to crank the motor the dash indicator for battery stays on the L line and never goes up. I threw my jump box on the new battery and it reads 12.6 -12.8 but the dash is barely recognizing it at all.
I didnt have my tools w me so I couldnt pull the terminal to clean it or inspect it....but could that be the problem? The battery has enough juice but what if the truck isnt getting enough to do anything
Shouldn't be too hard on a 1990 Ranger
Should be a short Positive cable to the Starter Relay on inner fender, ALL 12v Power comes from that 1 post on starter relay, so make sure all the wires on that post are clean
Alternator hooks up there as does engine fuse box which powers the cab fuse box, so all 12v comes from that one post, engine off or on
Negative cable might have a larger cable to engine block or starter motor bolt
And a smaller cable to Rad support/inner finder(for head lights and relays)
There should also be a ground strap on drivers side head to the firewall, main ground for the cab(for all cab electrics)
And a ground strap from engine to Frame(for tail lights)
Negative is often overlooked, but there is no 12volts if there is no 0volts, the 0volts defines the 12volts
Try hooking both terminals on a 12v light to positive, nothing happens, but it HAS 12 VOLTS!!!
Doesn't light up because there is no 12volts unless there is also a 0volts to "make it" 12volts
Should be a short Positive cable to the Starter Relay on inner fender, ALL 12v Power comes from that 1 post on starter relay, so make sure all the wires on that post are clean
Alternator hooks up there as does engine fuse box which powers the cab fuse box, so all 12v comes from that one post, engine off or on
Negative cable might have a larger cable to engine block or starter motor bolt
And a smaller cable to Rad support/inner finder(for head lights and relays)
There should also be a ground strap on drivers side head to the firewall, main ground for the cab(for all cab electrics)
And a ground strap from engine to Frame(for tail lights)
Negative is often overlooked, but there is no 12volts if there is no 0volts, the 0volts defines the 12volts
Try hooking both terminals on a 12v light to positive, nothing happens, but it HAS 12 VOLTS!!!
Doesn't light up because there is no 12volts unless there is also a 0volts to "make it" 12volts
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