Gas/fuel pressure starting ISSUE
Gas/fuel pressure starting ISSUE
Hello all,
I have been stumped for a month now. No fuel pressure at the fuel rail on my 1989 ranger when I cycle key several times and then check the bleed valve. Fuel pump is engaging as I hear it buzz each time i cycle the key. Where am I having a fuel pressure issue?? I just removed the fuel rail to see if it was clogged or something, and it looks just fine. Fuel is coming out of every single hole and carbon cleaner drained out easily when I cleaned the fuel rail. Stumped.
Thanks in advance.
I have been stumped for a month now. No fuel pressure at the fuel rail on my 1989 ranger when I cycle key several times and then check the bleed valve. Fuel pump is engaging as I hear it buzz each time i cycle the key. Where am I having a fuel pressure issue?? I just removed the fuel rail to see if it was clogged or something, and it looks just fine. Fuel is coming out of every single hole and carbon cleaner drained out easily when I cleaned the fuel rail. Stumped.
Thanks in advance.
In 1986 to 1997 Rangers there are 2 valves that hold fuel pressure in the system
Check valve inside the fuel pump(in gas tank), part of the fuel pump, also called back flow preventer, pump can push fuel out but when pump is off fuel can't flow back into pump
Fuel pressure regulator(FPR), on the fuel rail, has Return fuel line connected to it, its set for 40-45psi pressure
You can remove the Return fuel line from the FPR and put a towel down under FPR
Cycle key on and see if fuel comes out of FPR, it shouldn't until pressure is over 40psi, replace FPR if fuel does come out
If FPR is OK then problem is fuel pump's check valve
This is assuming you don't smell gasoline anywhere, so an external leak, lol, which would be the more obvious reason for no fuel pressure
Just FYI
Fuel pressure should hold in the system for many MONTHS, not hours, days or weeks, MONTHS
Check valve inside the fuel pump(in gas tank), part of the fuel pump, also called back flow preventer, pump can push fuel out but when pump is off fuel can't flow back into pump
Fuel pressure regulator(FPR), on the fuel rail, has Return fuel line connected to it, its set for 40-45psi pressure
You can remove the Return fuel line from the FPR and put a towel down under FPR
Cycle key on and see if fuel comes out of FPR, it shouldn't until pressure is over 40psi, replace FPR if fuel does come out
If FPR is OK then problem is fuel pump's check valve
This is assuming you don't smell gasoline anywhere, so an external leak, lol, which would be the more obvious reason for no fuel pressure
Just FYI
Fuel pressure should hold in the system for many MONTHS, not hours, days or weeks, MONTHS
Roger that, I'll check the FPR and from there the fuel pump check valve in the tank. I just noticed the fuel tank is leaking gasoline at a slow but steady rate, right near the front of the tank, it's a little crack or something. I tried putting some sealer to seal the tank, but could this be the culprit for the loss of fuel pressure?
No, on the loss of fuel pressure, it would cause EVAP system codes, but couldn't effect fuel pressure at the injectors or driving issues
Plastic gas tanks can be "plastic welded", its possible to DIY this type of repair
Google: plastic welding gas tanks
You can't buy new plastic gas tanks for Rangers, and most wrecking yard gas tanks have holes drill in them(to drain them before they are put in "the yard") or were broken by forklifts moving vehicles around.
Plastic gas tanks can be "plastic welded", its possible to DIY this type of repair
Google: plastic welding gas tanks
You can't buy new plastic gas tanks for Rangers, and most wrecking yard gas tanks have holes drill in them(to drain them before they are put in "the yard") or were broken by forklifts moving vehicles around.
Figured out that the zero fuel pressure was due to the NEW fuel pressure relay fuse I had gotten was not working. I put back on the original relay and first time heard the hum from fuel pump and fuel now comes out of the fuel rail at check valve when tested.
HOWEVER
Still not turning over. I connected a fuel pressure test kit and this is what I saw:
On first key turn, fuel pressure went up to about 1 psi. Second key turn 10 psi. Third turn 20 psi. Fourth turn 30 psi. Fifth turn 35 psi and holding. Turned the vehicle completely over, it turned over and then stopped immediately. Psi is still holding. Tried turning it over again and it just cranks. Psi is still holding. Looks like psi is going down about 2 psi maybe every 10 minutes...Then i tried turning truck over, put the pedal to the floor to allow max air intake and hear a nice pop from the air intake.
Any ideas here?
HOWEVER
Still not turning over. I connected a fuel pressure test kit and this is what I saw:
On first key turn, fuel pressure went up to about 1 psi. Second key turn 10 psi. Third turn 20 psi. Fourth turn 30 psi. Fifth turn 35 psi and holding. Turned the vehicle completely over, it turned over and then stopped immediately. Psi is still holding. Tried turning it over again and it just cranks. Psi is still holding. Looks like psi is going down about 2 psi maybe every 10 minutes...Then i tried turning truck over, put the pedal to the floor to allow max air intake and hear a nice pop from the air intake.
Any ideas here?
Unplug 3 wire connector on throttle sensor(TPS) and try to start, if this sensor shorts out it turns off fuel injectors
Engine will start with any pressure above 10psi
Try 50/50 test
Spray fuel into the engine and crank
If it fires/starts and dies then you have a fuel delivery issue, but spark and spark timing are OK
If it doesn't fire then its a spark or compression issue
50/50 instant results
2.3l uses a timing belt which can break or skip at ANY TIME, if possible look behind timing belt cover to make sure belt is still turning CAM gear
In 1989 2.3l(1989-1994) only the passenger side spark plugs work when starter motor is on, drivers side spark starts when engine has started, above 400rpms
Engine will start with any pressure above 10psi
Try 50/50 test
Spray fuel into the engine and crank
If it fires/starts and dies then you have a fuel delivery issue, but spark and spark timing are OK
If it doesn't fire then its a spark or compression issue
50/50 instant results
2.3l uses a timing belt which can break or skip at ANY TIME, if possible look behind timing belt cover to make sure belt is still turning CAM gear
In 1989 2.3l(1989-1994) only the passenger side spark plugs work when starter motor is on, drivers side spark starts when engine has started, above 400rpms
RonD
IT WAS THE TIMING BELT.
I checked everything you said and then decided I better go ahead and check the one thing I did NOT want to have to get back into.
The bolts to the timing belt spring and pulley were loose...when I put it on the first time, it was first time so I wasn’t sure if it was safe to tighten the bolts and lose spring. *facepalm*
gasoline was all over the bolts and the back of the pulley so I’m sure that’s where I was experiencing the issue. Truck started right up the first time!
Thank you for the help!
IT WAS THE TIMING BELT.
I checked everything you said and then decided I better go ahead and check the one thing I did NOT want to have to get back into.
The bolts to the timing belt spring and pulley were loose...when I put it on the first time, it was first time so I wasn’t sure if it was safe to tighten the bolts and lose spring. *facepalm*
gasoline was all over the bolts and the back of the pulley so I’m sure that’s where I was experiencing the issue. Truck started right up the first time!
Thank you for the help!
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