Hello Guys,

2005 duratec 4 standard ranger
111k miles

My temp gauge has been a bit erratic as of late. I did change my plugs over the summer to Motorcraft and noticed that it has been running a bit cooler since. I live in Phoenix where is it hotter than Hades. So recently as the temps are beginning to drop it has been intermittently running at 25% hot rather than the normal 50% reading. I am thinking that maybe the thermostat is having intermittent issues but I am not sure of that. So before I do a typical BOB and rebuild the entire system (which after 16 problem-free years may be a good idea) any suggestions.

I am considering changing the thermostat (100%)
water pump (30%)
radiator (30%)
any temp sensors (30%)
O2 sensors (30%) in case it is running rich from a tire sensor


Thanks for the help.

I am on my way to a ground-up restoration of a truck that is worth only $3,500.

BOB

 

2005 2.3l Ranger still has the analog temp sender located on the coolant pipe between valve cover and firewall, just FYI

So the thermostat would be best guess and the place to start, in my opinion
Its possible its the temp sender, but less likely

Water pump, radiator lean to over heating issues not under heating, thats stuck open thermostat territory
You can test for that
Start cold engine and open the hood
Feel upper rad hose, and either heater hose, should both be cold of course
Let it idle for 2 or 3 minutes and feel both hoses again
Upper rad hose should still be cool, heater hose should be getting hot

If upper rad hose is heating up like heater hose then thermostat is OPEN when it should still be closed

The thermostat blocks flow thru radiator, even when located on lower hose, thats how it works, when coolant heats up enough only then will the thermostat open to allow flow thru radiator

 

Thanks Ron for the info.


I went to RockAuto and all they have is thermostat housing and not just the thermostat. The 2005 should not have the electronic controlled thermostat so I was hoping just swap out the thermostat. I do not have the truck with me just to look at. I want to get the Motorcraft version but that's 125 bucks. Not sure if that is the right part anyway.

When I get home I will look at it.


BOB

 

I found the right part on RockAuto. Motorcraft for the nonelectric one is 20 bucks. That makes more sense.

Thanks

Bob

 

Yes, 2004 to 2011 2.3l used the less expensive one, no internal heater like the 2001-2003 needed

 

Hello All,

Just to follow up,

I performed some testing with an IR camera and the thermostat is not opening after 10 minutes or so at idle. I did drive it around the block and the thermostat opened a bit and the radiator temp went up.

Now I live in Phoenix so it is never cool but it may just be too cool to open the radiator. It seems to be cooler than before but over the past few years I did replace the fan clutch and put the correct plugs in the car so it may just be running cooler from there.

So for the mean time I am not going to fix what is not broken and leave the water pump and thermostat alone. I am considering removing the radiator and cleaning out the fins as a form of service but if I go that far should I just replace the 17 year old radiator.

This is what keeps me up at night.


Thanks,

BOB

 

I'd replace a 17yo Radiator with junk PlasticTanks with a new AllAluminum version,
maybe even upgrade from a 1or2RowCore to a 3or4RowCore for just a few bucks more.

 

Thanks for the reply and that is the rub of it all. We can't expect parts to last forever so I am tempted to change it all out just because they could fail. But that is where I usually run into trouble as I break what was not broken. I do approach this stuff as a hobby so if something like that happens that is just how I enjoy myself.

If I could source an all-aluminum radiator I would go that route but for the 2.3 Duratec I have not found one yet.


BOB

 

Link below to 3RowCore AllAluminum Radiator for 2005 Ranger 2.3L.
Take a measuring tape to your existing radiator+connections & compare to what's available.

 

Thank you for the reply,

The only issue I have is that the Duratec has a degas system and does not have a radiator cap as we see this one does. I am not sure if we can use those types of radiators. My thought would be that if we had a higher pressure cap that may negate the issue as the degas would manage the pressure but that is making engineering changes that I am not sure of the consequence of.

Thanks again,

BOB

 

Yes, a sealed cap or a high pressure cap would work just fine

 

Thanks for the confirmation.

That opens up a lot more options.

I live in Phoenix and I could benefit from a more efficient radiator. I will look for a 2-row aluminum and let everyone know what I find.

BOB

 

Hello All,


I did just change out the thermostat. It was easy enough and I did not break anything so that is good. I did cut my finger and some blood was spilled but that is usual as well. I bled it a bit as I ran it with the front up for a while on my driveway. During the test drive, it stayed just below 12 noon on the gauge and I think that is where it is supposed to be. I got the part from RockAuto Motorcraft with the 190-degree temp. It did come with the gasket so I actually order an extra one if someone needs one.

Thanks

BOB

 

Good work

Yes, just below 1/2 is correct, 1/2(12:00) is about 205degF on Ford gauges