Ok so i just bought my first truck on my 17th b day. Its a 98 ranger 2.5 5 speed single cab step side. I'm having an issue with some of the cluster lights. before i explain i just want to say that im pretty sure my dimmer switch is faulty because it does not click to the on position. I have a new one that does and im going to install it very soon. So when i turn the key to on position the check engine light along with the check fuel light on the dash do not come on for the few seconds. All the other lights come on like the abs high beams airbag baterry etc... Im not sure if my truck still has a the door ajar thing. Ive been told that this is most likely a bulb since the other lights work. I also have no backlight on my speedo tach and all the other gauges. ive been reading a lot and people say its a bad dimmer switch or burnt out bulbs. I know my headlight switch works. I also have no heater control panel lights or dome light but ive been reading that's the dimmer switch. As i said i have the dimmer switch and i have the bulbs so later in the week im gonna swap the stuff and hopefully that fixes it. Could you guys think of anything else that could be the issue? I think im gonna go ahead and swap the parts i have and see what that fixes. please be easy on me lol. I haven't stopped thinking about this stuff since i bought the truck and its been bugging me. Ive already done many things like shocks and leaf spring mounts and shackles and diff fluid and all breaks. The trukc is in the highs schoool shop so i have all tools but not a ton of knowledge. seems like my issues are fairly common but pls any tips are helpful. I work at a hot rod shop and ive also been asking them for tips and fixes. They are saying to swap the bulbs dimmer switch and check all the connections and since some of my dummy lights work its most likely the bulbs. But thats their opinion. please share your experience. thanks in advance... I know these forums are hit and miss but hey its worth a shot.

 

Welcome to the forum

Yes, most likely the dimmer switch

But the CEL(check engine light) should come on with key on and stay on...............until engine starts, then it would come back on if there were Trouble Codes in computer's memory
People often disable CEL by pulling the bulb or putting tape over it, most won't cut the wire but.........................

So with cluster out test CEL for sure

Most "info" lights get 12v with key on and are then Grounded to turn the bulb on
Cab fuse box fuses 11, 15 and 25 power the cluster, check them

Back lights are activated by getting 12v, or less, from dimmer


You can buy a Bluetooth OBD2 reader for under $20, ELM327 is fine to use
It works with any smarthphone, APPs are free, Torque Lite is OK, or Torque Pro, $5
Good tool to have as it works with ANY vehicle sold in US/Canada since 1996, its the Law
ANY VEHICLE
So at 17 you will be able to use it for many many years, still works on 2022 vehicles

 

Thanks. I have the reader and all that stuff. I'm going to start taking the cluster out tomorrow. I have all bulbs and dimmer switch ready! Fuses were good when I checked. In fact they looked like they were recently swapped like the last owner tried to fix my issues. Mayne someone pulled the bulb as some of the bolts to hold the driver side trim pieces are out and in the glove box. Il fix it either way! Thanks again. Also it's weird how much dimmer swirches cost. Such a common piece almost 125 in canada with a discount from the shop.

 

So turned out to be a lot of burnt out bulbs in cluster and hvac panel. Like a lot lol. Everything works now including the dome light. Only bug thats still there is that the e brake light dosent work but I think that's the sensor. Also the door ajar bulb dosent light up after replacing it. Good day tho lol 😆

 

Good work.
EBrakeLamp problem is likely the LimitSwitch on EBrakePedal; gets dirty+crusty & needs cleaning\adjusting every few years.
RonD & others can likely give you some good hints\tips on the DoorAjar problem.

 

Switch is on the e-brake pedal, 2 wires, its a Ground signal, one wire is a ground the other goes to the cluster, when brake pedal is down, even a little, the switch closes and Grounds the bulb in the dash
You may find the wires unplugged, a lot of people "fix" the dash brake light being on all the time that way, lol
But in any case to test the wires just jumper them together and dash brake light should come on, if so the switch is the problem

Door Ajar light is similar setup in that the switch in each door Grounds the wire to the GEM module when door is opened, GEM activates the light
This is another thing that people will unplug, in each door, so Door Ajar light stays off, vs replacing the switch
Switch is a bit of a pain to replace
Same setup from 1995 thru 2011 Rangers
Quite a few Videos on changing the Door switch

 

Ya I will clean the switch for the e brake pedal and test it. Also the door ajar thing. It looks like the previous owner pulled the little plug from the ignition while trying to disable the door ajar which is why he had the dome light assembled wrong. Im going to try and see the switch in the door and see whats up. Otherwise do you think I could just tape up the wire for the ignition door ajar thing and then just put a switch on the dome light as a last resort? The dome light has power 24.7 correct? If all is bad and I can't fix the connector to the ignition and the door switches would this work? I read other forums that say this works but its not ideal. It seems fine to me. I don't expect the truck to be perfect but a dome light is really nice to have. Thanks again everyone!

 

Are the door sensors expensive?

 

Just to be clear the dash door ajar light does not come on at all. Would faulty door switches allow this? If the ignition plug is not plugged in then technically the light would be on all the time correct? Or opposite? Please let me know what you guys thing about that.

 

The door switch is a Ground switch
If its unplugged then no door ajar light

If its Grounded then door ajar light is on all the time

Dash 12v--------door ajar(bulb)----------------------------------------------switch----Ground

Simplified, actually the switch grounds the GEM and it ground the bulb

When door is closed switch is OPEN, no ground
When door is open switch is CLOSED, grounded

So unplugging the switch means no ground, ever

Almost all vehicle wiring uses the Ground as the on/off for bulbs and relays, since its "safer" than running 12volt wires everywhere
i.e. if a 12v wire shorts to ground a fuse blows, if a ground wire shorts to ground something comes on that should be OFF, lol, safer than blown fuse or possibly melted wire

 

Fixed the e brake light. The switch was dirty. Just need to weld a washer to one of the spring retainers because it keep popping off. Next is figuring out the door ajar light and beeper then the temp gauge. Thanks to all.

 

Got all the door ajar stuff fixed and dome light fixed. Now onto the temp gauge not reading anything.

 

In the 1980's 1990's and up to mid-2000's Fuel injected Rangers(EFI engines in general) have TWO coolant TEMP devices on the engine

ECT(engine coolant temp) SENSOR, 5 volt and only used by the computer

Temp SENDER, 12 volt and only used by dash Temp gauge

On the 1998-2001 2.5l Ranger they should both be next to each other on the thermostat housing, seen here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...s-img_3961.jpg

The grey and white connectors next to where upper rad hose connects to engine

The SENDER will have a red/white stripe wire and a black/white wire

SENSOR should be Green/red and Grey/red wires

Cold engine
To test if SENDER or wire is what's bad, get a short Jumper wire, unplug the SENDER connector, short its red/white and black/white wires together with Jumper wire
Turn on the key
Temp gauge should go up to HOT, way up
If so then wires are good, replace sender
If not then wires or gauge is the issue

Make sure you get a SENDER if replacing it, most places will sell you a sensor by mistake, or on purpose, lol

DY-1144 is what most Fords used as a temp SENDER, Motorcraft(Ford) should be about $20, shop around, Sensors are often twice that

 

Nice work! I'd be curious to learn how original poster fixed the door ajar switch, as I've had the same issue.

 

So what I did was take out the door latch and I tested the switch/sensor for continuity and power. Turns out it works. I was also able to figure out it was only the drivers side. The sensor/switch was just seized open so the door always thinks its open. I let it sit in atf and acetone for and hour then it worked as it should. Put it back on the latch and everything works great now. If you can't unseize the sensor they are about 15 bucks on rock auto but they should be fixable. I've also read about people unplugging them and then just putting a switch for the dome light. Kinda hack tho. Seems like this is a common issue on the rangers. I should say it's a pain to get the latch and sensor out tho. But it was worth it. My truck is near perfect and the dimmer switch functions for the dome light also now.

 

Awesome, thanks for the update!