Hello people, First post, first time working on a vehicle myself, first time modifying my truck.

I just finished lowering the front end of my 1994 2wd 3.0 ranger. I did this with used belltech ibeams that drop 3”, chose these because chassis tech is expensive and djm doesn’t have good reviews.

Driver side suspension problem: damaged the eccentric sleeve that fits into the upper ball joint area on the ibeam. More specifically the lower of the two tabs broke off when trying to pry open the beam to fit the sleeve inside. No picture because it is inside the opening of the ibeam.

Passenger side suspension problems: blown shock, bad lower ball joint. I think that the old (bad) ball joint doesn’t like the new ibeam too much, because when installing the knuckle to the ibeam it was tough to rotate side to side (with tie rod disconnected). But it was only tough for half of the rotation.

Both lower ball joints are not torqued to spec as my torque wrench doesn’t fit. I just reefed them as hard as I could.

this difficulty isn’t noticeable until the last half turn of the steering wheel turning right.

Once on the ground I immediately noticed - camber. Drove for 20km and then saw that the camber changed to +.

these beams are also supposed to keep the stock camber, but I guess not.

what should I do, replace ball joints and get an allignment, will that fix it? It really scares me how the camber changes. Even moving it from my driveway to the street it changed from + to -

also worth mentioning: the camber has been the same on both sides. I’ve only seen -&- , or , +&+. I have not seen a mix of both

edited: I just noticed that in the positive camber picture my suspension looks to be very extended while in the negative camber picture my suspension is very contracted. With IBeam suspension camber changes with suspension travel, do I have anything to worry about?

Earlier in the day after the first drive, - camber

Got home and saw this: + camber

Beams installed! 😎


thanks!