I’m back again, another small irritation. From nowhere, as usual, the door open/key in ignition/headlights on with engine off chime quit working which resulted in a dead battery as it was dusk and forgot lights were on. This all happened about the time driver’s lock/unlock switch stopped working. Coincidence or related? From everything I’ve read, there is no fuse anywhere, it’s either wiring, a module, or door sensor. Any easy way to narrow the search down? 02 Ranger btw.

 

It's usually the door sensor.

 

So I assume all 3 above mentioned issues are all tied into the door sensor, and does that affect the lock switch also? Do I need to pull door panel off, and is there any diagnostics I can do before going to that trouble?

 

Door open switch issue will cause "Door Ajar" light to be on when door is closed, or no "Door Ajar" light when its open, so easy to see that
Test on passenger door as well

 

I know my ajar light doesn’t come on. What I want to know is am I right in assuming the headlight warning tone when car is off is incorporated in that sensor circuit as that is the feature I need, don’t care about door ajar warning, it is more of a bother than anything. Further, do I need to replace it or is there another fix?

 

The door switch is part of both warning chimes

If headlight switch is on and you open driver's door the chime will sound
If you open driver's door with key in the ignition the chime will sound

So drivers door switch is common to both

And "Door Ajar" light is common to both door switches, so if door ajar light comes on when passenger door is opened but not drivers door then door switch in drivers door is not working

 

And there it is. Passenger ajar light/chime works, driver’s not. This all happened about the same time master lock/unlock switch also quit, tho remote fob does work. Oddly, several months ago was the opposite. Ajar light/chime wouldn’t shut off, so I did the WD-40 trick, took care of the problem. Not so much now. God I’m dreading taking off door panel. It’s not as easy as video makes it look, if I break any of the old (20 yr) tabs I’m screwed.

 

If, by tabs, you're referring to the push-in connectors, you can purchase extras from Amazon for the price of a cup of coffee. Order some and have 'em on hand when you start the project.

 

Good idea. One more ? As long as I’m here. In regard to one of my previous posts, will the bad sensor also affect the lock/unlock button that stopper working, as I should get one at the same time as the sensor if they’re not related.

 

Thanks. One more question, will the bad sensor affect the lock/unlock button which also quit. Don’t want to buy one if not needed, obviously.

 

The power lock/unlock uses relays to activate the actuators in the doors
The door lock/unlock switch or fob activates the relays

No connection to the door open/closed switch, if that's what you were asking

If driver's door lock/unlock switch is not working then replace it first, especially if fob always works to unlock drivers door, if the passenger door and/or fobs are also not working then could be relay issue

 

Now that I know the prob, I bow to superior knowledge. How do really get to the sensor? Do I go thru the latch in door? Can’t find even one helpful video that directly addresses this repair.

 

Google: Ford Quick Tips #76: Door Ajar Switch Testing and Replacement


You do need to remove door panel I will assume you know how to do that
As shown in the video the switch is at the bottom of the latch, and its a TWIST LOCK mount
So you will need to loosen the latch from the outside so you can un-twist the old one and install the new one
You do not have to remove the latch and pull it out, as said in video, but you can if you want to

 

Had panel off already. My problem is video went from removing door panel to holding old sensor in hand, nothing in between as to how it came out or reinstalling it. I’m not dumb, but could take twice as long if I’m going in blind as I’ve never done this before.

 

The video was to show you how the switch is mounted to the latch
Unplug its 2 wire connector

Loosen latch
Twist the old one out
Twist the new one in

Tighten latch, make sure door still closes(window open just in case, lol)
Reconnect switch
Test

 

Thanks. Still, the videos are either useless or make changing sensor look like a 2 hour take everyone apart project. At this point I’m tempted to just live with it and hope I never forget to turn headlights off.