Battery light flickers in long trip-2-4 hours
Battery light flickers in long trip-2-4 hours
1999 XLT ranger 4.0 4x4 has an issue where the battery light flickers only on long road trips. At 14 mpg it's rare.
I've never seen it even on the lengthiest city trips, only happened after 4 or so hours. It'll flicker for a few miles and then nothing then again.
I suspect something is getting hot and loose? Something on the edge of failure? I'm about to do a 20 hour with her and expect something to go wrong. Should I pack a spare alternator and belt and tools?
Could continuous phone charging plus loud radio just stress the thing? It is 24 years old with 190k miles but the alt is shiny unknown age, not original.. The battery cable is spliced but it's not corroded...looks healthy. Alternator and battery tested with flying colors at the parts shop. Thanks for help and wish luck in the north woods.
I've never seen it even on the lengthiest city trips, only happened after 4 or so hours. It'll flicker for a few miles and then nothing then again.
I suspect something is getting hot and loose? Something on the edge of failure? I'm about to do a 20 hour with her and expect something to go wrong. Should I pack a spare alternator and belt and tools?
Could continuous phone charging plus loud radio just stress the thing? It is 24 years old with 190k miles but the alt is shiny unknown age, not original.. The battery cable is spliced but it's not corroded...looks healthy. Alternator and battery tested with flying colors at the parts shop. Thanks for help and wish luck in the north woods.
Battery light circuit is pretty simple, and its actually the ON/OFF switch for the alternator
Actually a "Charge Indicator" light, and nothing to do with battery, persay
How a light bulb works in a vehicle
If I hook 12volts to a light bulb what happens?
Nothing
If I also hook up ground/negative to the bulb it lights up, because current is flowing thru the filament so it heats up/lights up
If I hook up two 12v wires to the bulb what happens?
Nothing again
Because no current is flowing between the two 12v wires, so filament never heats up
This will be important later
First, on the 3 wire plug in on the alternator is a light green/red stripe wire, that is the battery light wire, and the 3 wire plug is the alternator's internal voltage regulator
This light green wire runs to the negative terminal on the Battery Light Bulb's socket
When you turn on the key the cluster gets 12volts, fuse 15 in cab gives 12v to Battery Light Bulb's socket
Since alternator is not spinning its a ground/negative, so Battery Light comes ON
But whats also happening is that the 12v from fuse 15 is flowing thru the battery light bulb down the light green wire to the Voltage regulator which turns it ON
This 12v is called "Startup Voltage"
You can spin an alternator "til the cows come home" and it will never generate 1 volt, nada, zero, nothing
That's because an alternator(unlike a Generator) needs Startup Voltage, you need to Prime the Pump so to speak
So voltage regulator is now turned on, and it then passes some of that 12volts to the rotor so it becomes a magnet
When the rotor starts to spin the 3 Field Coils in the case of the alternator start to generate AC Volts which is converted to DC Volts and alternator is now generating say 14volts
The 14volts is higher than the 12.3-12.9volts in the battery so voltage flows TO the battery, charging it, but the whole vehicle is now running at 14volts, battery is "offline"
Fuse 15 as well is 14volt
And Voltage regulator's light green wire is also at 14volts........................
And if a light bulb has 14volts on BOTH wires.................no current flows so bulb is OFF
Flicker means either fuse 15 voltage is dropping or alternator/Voltage regulator's voltage is dropping, so current starts to flow thru the Battery Light Bulb
Most likely alternator/voltage regulator issue
You wouldn't be out of line to get a spare alternator and carry tools to change it on the road
When it fails, battery light stays on, you will have about 45min drive time without headlights and maybe 25min with headlights before engine stalls and you will need a jump start after replacing alternator
So engine won't just die suddenly, you will have time to pull over to a safe place and still have enough battery power left to re-start engine
One heads up, there have been more than a few complaints/posts that New Alternators were dead out of the box, and people had to get 1 or even 2 more to get one that worked
I have always had good luck with used Motorcraft/Factory alternators out of wrecking yards, and they are previously test, i.e. most likely alternator was working if vehicle was in an accident, it was running and driving somewhere, lol
Fuse 15----------------battery light---------------------------Voltage regulator/alternator--------ground
Actually a "Charge Indicator" light, and nothing to do with battery, persay
How a light bulb works in a vehicle
If I hook 12volts to a light bulb what happens?
Nothing
If I also hook up ground/negative to the bulb it lights up, because current is flowing thru the filament so it heats up/lights up
If I hook up two 12v wires to the bulb what happens?
Nothing again
Because no current is flowing between the two 12v wires, so filament never heats up
This will be important later
First, on the 3 wire plug in on the alternator is a light green/red stripe wire, that is the battery light wire, and the 3 wire plug is the alternator's internal voltage regulator
This light green wire runs to the negative terminal on the Battery Light Bulb's socket
When you turn on the key the cluster gets 12volts, fuse 15 in cab gives 12v to Battery Light Bulb's socket
Since alternator is not spinning its a ground/negative, so Battery Light comes ON
But whats also happening is that the 12v from fuse 15 is flowing thru the battery light bulb down the light green wire to the Voltage regulator which turns it ON
This 12v is called "Startup Voltage"
You can spin an alternator "til the cows come home" and it will never generate 1 volt, nada, zero, nothing
That's because an alternator(unlike a Generator) needs Startup Voltage, you need to Prime the Pump so to speak
So voltage regulator is now turned on, and it then passes some of that 12volts to the rotor so it becomes a magnet
When the rotor starts to spin the 3 Field Coils in the case of the alternator start to generate AC Volts which is converted to DC Volts and alternator is now generating say 14volts
The 14volts is higher than the 12.3-12.9volts in the battery so voltage flows TO the battery, charging it, but the whole vehicle is now running at 14volts, battery is "offline"
Fuse 15 as well is 14volt
And Voltage regulator's light green wire is also at 14volts........................
And if a light bulb has 14volts on BOTH wires.................no current flows so bulb is OFF
Flicker means either fuse 15 voltage is dropping or alternator/Voltage regulator's voltage is dropping, so current starts to flow thru the Battery Light Bulb
Most likely alternator/voltage regulator issue
You wouldn't be out of line to get a spare alternator and carry tools to change it on the road
When it fails, battery light stays on, you will have about 45min drive time without headlights and maybe 25min with headlights before engine stalls and you will need a jump start after replacing alternator
So engine won't just die suddenly, you will have time to pull over to a safe place and still have enough battery power left to re-start engine
One heads up, there have been more than a few complaints/posts that New Alternators were dead out of the box, and people had to get 1 or even 2 more to get one that worked
I have always had good luck with used Motorcraft/Factory alternators out of wrecking yards, and they are previously test, i.e. most likely alternator was working if vehicle was in an accident, it was running and driving somewhere, lol
Fuse 15----------------battery light---------------------------Voltage regulator/alternator--------ground
Last edited by RonD; Jul 22, 2023 at 08:53 PM.
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