1997 Ranger 2.3 xlt
1997 Ranger 2.3 xlt
My ranger won’t start. No power. No crank. I’ve replaced the alternator, starter, starter solenoid, battery (twice - the first one was bad). We’re at a loss on how my battery is dead, again, and we still cannot get this thing running. Now it did run for about a day after everything was replaced but once the 1st battery went bad, it has only started a couple of times and ran for a short time by jumping the solenoid. Now it tries to start when we try to pop start it but it only tries
any ideas, thoughts, anything…?
any ideas, thoughts, anything…?
Welcome to the forum
Need some numbers, Voltage numbers
Battery voltage Key off
Battery voltage key on
Batter voltage key off head lights on
A new battery will be 12.8v to 13.0v
Dead battery 12.2v or lower
The battery is ONLY used to start the engine, after engine starts the Alternator powers EVERYTHING and also charges the battery
With engine running Battery voltage should be minimum 13.5volts, but 13.8v-14.8v is normal range, if not then alternator is not working, new or not
Test alternator, engine off key off
Test battery voltage, REMEMBER IT
Alternator's B+ terminal is the one with the stud/nut connection, test its voltage using alternator's metal case as the ground, should be EXACTLY Battery voltage, the one you remembered
If not you have a blown fusible link or its not connected to battery positive
Unplug the 3 wire connector on alternator, this is foe internal voltage regulator
Test the Yellow/white stripe wire, should be Battery Volts EXACTLY
If not Fuse 6 in engine bay fuse box is blown
Test light green/red wire, should be 0 volts
Turn on the key, green wire should now be battery volts but 0.2 or so lower, not exact
If all 3 wires test as OK, plug back in the 3 wire connector
Start engine
Test battery volts, should be above 13.5v if not then alternators is bad, period, for sure, not a guess
You replaced starter relay on inner fender?
(Starter relay is often mispronounced as starter solenoid, lol)
One of the larger posts on the starter relay will have the battery positive cable, and several other wires with it, one to engine bay fuse box and one to alternator's B+, for sure
The other larger post will have ONE WIRE and ONLY one wire, it goes to starter motors "S" terminal(small post)
Need some numbers, Voltage numbers
Battery voltage Key off
Battery voltage key on
Batter voltage key off head lights on
A new battery will be 12.8v to 13.0v
Dead battery 12.2v or lower
The battery is ONLY used to start the engine, after engine starts the Alternator powers EVERYTHING and also charges the battery
With engine running Battery voltage should be minimum 13.5volts, but 13.8v-14.8v is normal range, if not then alternator is not working, new or not
Test alternator, engine off key off
Test battery voltage, REMEMBER IT
Alternator's B+ terminal is the one with the stud/nut connection, test its voltage using alternator's metal case as the ground, should be EXACTLY Battery voltage, the one you remembered
If not you have a blown fusible link or its not connected to battery positive
Unplug the 3 wire connector on alternator, this is foe internal voltage regulator
Test the Yellow/white stripe wire, should be Battery Volts EXACTLY
If not Fuse 6 in engine bay fuse box is blown
Test light green/red wire, should be 0 volts
Turn on the key, green wire should now be battery volts but 0.2 or so lower, not exact
If all 3 wires test as OK, plug back in the 3 wire connector
Start engine
Test battery volts, should be above 13.5v if not then alternators is bad, period, for sure, not a guess
You replaced starter relay on inner fender?
(Starter relay is often mispronounced as starter solenoid, lol)
One of the larger posts on the starter relay will have the battery positive cable, and several other wires with it, one to engine bay fuse box and one to alternator's B+, for sure
The other larger post will have ONE WIRE and ONLY one wire, it goes to starter motors "S" terminal(small post)
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