03 mazda b 3000 drivers window stopped in process and now both half down .Fuse in underhood box good , owners manual and hayes do not show where relay is , Any help appreciated Hello alll felllow forumates .

 

Welcome to the forum

Drivers window stopped working

So what does "both 1/2 down" mean, did passenger side also stop working

There are two fuses
One in engine bay fuse box, fuse #12, 20amp
And one fuse in Cab fuse box, #20, 7.5amp

Did you check both, i.e. pull them out to look at them

Safety Relay on these never fail, just FYI, but its above the gas pedal next to center console facing out towards brake pedal, has a plastic cover over it and several relays inside
Its call Relay Box 1 or AUX Relay Box
There are a few layouts for this box, here is one version: https://fuseandrelay.com/wp-content/.../Relay-box.jpg

Picture of location: https://fuseandrelay.com/wp-content/...-relay-box.jpg

Brake pedal in foreground, gas pedal next, cover is removed, Blue Relay is flasher for turn and 4-ways, no safe relay under it so either removed or has manual windows


I would pull driver side door panel FIRST and test master switch, this is far more likely to be the issue than the safety relay, passenger side window can't work is master is broken

One-touch relay not working wouldn't effect passenger window

2001-2003 power windows used the same wiring

 

Thanks for your help ! Yes, both windows in half down position .found fuse in engine compartment , It is good, will look again in passenger fusebox Thanks

 

checked the fuse suggested , and it is good , got my meter, adjusted to 12 v , key on , probed all the wires on both window switches to ground and each other seems no voltage there . . I will look in owners manual again , presently I do not recall mention of any other relays . The passenger window was always slow , and lacked the power to move at all during winter , and would only move with the engine running . Thanks again .

 

Test Volt meter on battery, while key is on, the voltage you see at the battery is what you should see on all 12v wires for duration of the testing that day

You only need to check the light blue/black stripe wire on drivers door switch, with key on, use the Black wire on the switch as the ground, then use a cab ground to test light blue/black wire

 

fuses good. testing wires on switch with meter shows no power on any wires is there a relay or inline fuse I should be looking for ? Thanks

 

There is just the one wire in each door that will have 12v with key on, light blue with black stripe wire, LT BLUE/BLACK

That 12v comes from fuse 12 in the Engine bay fuse box, test it for 12v with fuse removed
Then there is the "window safety relay" in Relay Box 1 under the dash above gas pedal

This relay is activated by fuse 20 in the Cab fuse box, check it for 12v with key ON, radio is also powered by fuse 20 so if radio works then fuse 20 is OK

If both fuses have 12volts then you can replace the "window safety relay" at that time

The relay should "click" closed with Key ON

 

thanks !

 

no power at 12 in underhood fuse box radio works key on

 

Then you have a problem inside the engine bay fuse box, fuse 12 should have battery power 24/7, all the time, directly connected to battery positive

So with fuse removed neither terminal has 12volts?
And no obvious corrosion on either terminal

Fuse boxes are not easy to troubleshoot

You can do a temporary jumper wire from another 24/7 fuse to the fuse 12 slot

BJB is engine fuse box, CJB is cab fuse box
Page 2 has fuse 12

Remove a near by fuse that has 12v full time, test which terminal has 12v, that's the terminal you want to add the jumper wire to
Put other end of jumper in either terminal of fuse 12
Turn on the key
See if windows work, if so thats the WRONG terminal for the jumper,it goes to the safety relay, but without the fuse in line, lol
So jumper goes to other terminal and out fuse back in

 

I will try these later, thanks again for your help .

 

I feel that the problem may be caused by a relay in the box beside the gas pedal I have the cover off , and there are 3 black relay relay boxes , and a blue one . which is for the power windows, and how would I test them ? Thanks

 

Blue one is turn signal and 4-way flasher

There were several layouts for Relay Box 1, here is one of them: https://fuseandrelay.com/wp-content/.../Relay-box.jpg

Fuse 12 in engine fuse box feeds 12v to the Safety Relay, not the other way around, so if there is no 12volts at fuse 12 then not a relay issue

You don't test relays, since you are asking, you replace them to see if its a relay issue

If you want to learn to test relays then Google: How to test automotive relays
Plenty of videos and how-tos out there

 

Thanks . for your help !

 

I found the cover on the relay box was secured with black tape , yesterday I took the door panels off and ran the windows up with my battery charger. there is evidence that someone has made repairs , replaced the motors ,perhaps different fasteners on the brackets . At least I can lock it now , lol I will continue to try Thanks to everyone for your help !

 

Just a heads up on all power window wiring in any vehicle
Both Motor wires will be Grounds when system is unused
When a button is pressed 1 motor wire is ungrounded and connected to 12volts, since the other wire is a ground the motor spins

So you can start by testing motor wires from the switch, both should read as good grounds, 0 ohms to body ground, if 1 wire is not a good ground then switch issue most likely, and window might roll up but not down or visa versa

Master switch controls other windows in the same way
Master has 2 ground wires to each door switch
Door switches have no local ground, only ground is from Master
Door switch does have local 12volt

Master switch changes 1 ground wire to 12v and that doors window motor spins
Local Door switch changes 1 wire to 12v and motor spins

It is actually a very simple system, which is why all car makers use the same setup

 

I was curious if it is difficult to change to crank windows. looks like somebody was messin with this stuff before , and the windows had never worked well . I think the power setup was designed to work with the manual set up so the manufacturer could produce internals for roll up, and add power stuff as needed . Can I remove the electric stuff and put handles on to roll em myself? Thanks to everyone who offered help along the way . Frankly

 

No, not really
The window itself and its bottom slider, and center post it goes up and down on, are the same but that's about it

Good news is 1993-2011 manual or power are the same, obviously different for left and right doors

So loads of parts for either at wrecking yards

Parts seen here: https://www.lmctruck.com/1983-11-for...dow-components
You need 9, 10, 11, and 12

Doors are not pre-drilled for both types, but usually 2 of the holes will line up
So doors come as electric or manual, not an option on assembly line

You also need new door panels for manual


Power windows are NOT complicated at all
Driver's door switch wears out, and that's about it
Sometimes Driver's door motor wears out but switch FIRST