2000 XLT 3.0 2wd automatic lost all power when key is turned.
Last month as I was getting ready to head home from work, I turned the key to on and the dash lights came on like normal. When I turned the key to start, everything went dead. I checked everything I could check and finally paid $200 to tow it home. I couldn’t figure out what the issue was so I thought maybe the ignition switch. I replaced it and it’s run fine until Friday. Once again at the end of the day it looses power when I turn the key. I bought a new ignition switch from a nearby store and put it in but it didn’t fix the problem.

Another $200 tow and I can’t figure it out.

battery is good and I cleaned the terminals and made sure they were tight. I started checking voltage at all the grounds I could find and one was weak:the one next to the radiator. I tried to remove it to clean the connection and the terminal snapped off. Could that be the problem? Or is there something else?

 

Its a Battery cable
On a 2000 Ranger there should be 1 cable from battery positive that goes down to start motor, that's just for the starter motor and nothing else
Then a smaller red wire from battery positive to engine fuse box, this wire powers EVERYTHING ELSE in the truck
This smaller red wire may go to the MEGA FUSE on the outside of engine fuse box, disconnect battery, then remove the wires at both ends of the MEGA FUSE and clean the ends and terminals, one end at a time
After hooking it back up test that the MEGA FUSE has 12volts at each end, if not its blown

Battery Negative has a larger cable running down to starter motor, but to a bolt that holds starter motor to bell housing, this cable powers EVERYTHING, so loosen the bolt and clean end of cable and make sure it has good metal to clean metal contact
Battery negative can also have 1 or 2 more smaller wires running to rad support and/or inner fender metal, these are for lights and horn, some relays but nothing in the cab so dash light and starter would work if these were bad

 

Thanks. I’ll do that tomorrow after work and report back.

 

ok, I didn’t get home in time to have enough light to do any real work, but I did attempt to follow the battery cables to their respective ends. Both red and black run together inside insulation into the nether regions of the engine bay. From underneath the positive on the starter is obvious, but I couldn’t find the other end of the negative. You said it runs to a bolt on the bell housing, but I didn’t see any wires there, nor do I remember any last time the starter was off. Now, it was dark and I was laying on the ground shining a light on the grease covered bottom of my engine so maybe I just missed it, but could it be anywhere else? There’s three wires on the starter if that means anything.

 

Starter motor only has two connections, the battery positive cable, and the starter activation wire

The 3rd wire must be the ground, connected to starter motor mounting bolt which is a bell housing bolt

MEGA fuse connection, clean those

 

Ok, weather and time finally lined up and cleaned all the connections: 3 on the starter, two at the fuse box and the battery cables/ terminals. None seemed corroded at all, but I polished em up, bolted em down tight and the truck cranked. I don’t trust, though.

Edit to add I never identified a wire going to a bolt on the starter. The third, smaller wire seemed to connect solenoid to starter motor. Hard to see, though, under all the grease.

 

Battery Negative cable, the larger one, bolts to the engine somewhere, usually starter motor's mounting bolt, but can be on the engine block

Solenoid is on the starter motor after late 1980's
The device on the inner fender is the starter relay, but often called a starter solenoid on very OLD vehicles, but still wasn't a solenoid even then, lol


A solenoid causes movement, can be a valve or in the case of the starter motor, the smaller tube on top(starter solenoid) MOVES the starter's gear out to engage the ring gear when activated
i.e. transmission solenoids move valves in the valve body, EVAP and EGR system solenoids move valves to control vacuum levels

A relay passes electrical power when its activated
i.e., starter relay, Fuel pump relay, park light relay, dome light relay, ect..............

 

Well, it ran today, 80 miles round trip. So, maybe it’s fixed, at least that issue is, thanks. If it does it again I’ll look for another ground wire on the block.

I think my power steering pump is dying now. Heavy vibration in tight turns and the fluid looks like dirty engine oil except thinner. It’s one thing after another with this truck.