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1996 ford explorer sport 4.0l v6 OHV Runs/drives, dies and wont start for a few hours
Hi I just bought this 2dr 1996 Sport 4.0 ohv. some background info, skip down if you want. it has 134k miles, has maintenance records back to when they bought it. The truck was given to his son who I think started doing IMO (but, I'm also uneducated in this) dumb modifications. He wired a stereo in wrong so the screen stays on 24/7, led backup camera stays on, sub/amps and wiring everywhere. parts are grounded, might be the starter, throttle body. There is an aftermarket intake that I think is just sucking in hot air. There's also a tube from what I think is the valve cover to a little mini air filter, but I thought it should be attached to the intake?
Drove fine first day I bought it, go figure. 2nd day I went for a drive and it was good for about 10 miles before slowly losing power and dying. I had to press the pedal real hard to move while it was losing power. I got a tow and bought a new battery because found the old one said BAD and everything seemed to work better. drove fine the 2 miles to my unit. I went for another drive few days later and same thing happened, lights still worked. starts right back up a few hours later and we drove it on the flatbed. checked all hoses, coils, coolant, radiator gets really hot on the top of the aluminum, hose on the left feels warm and top/bottom aluminum tubes on the right feel the same temp, fan runs, heat works, compressor on/off. Is it normal to have to press the pedal with some pressure on these? Seems to get up to speed fine when first driving, even when I stepped on it, shifts fast/smooth and goes into reverse fast. oil looks clean, coolant clean. Trans leaked a little after sitting in storage for a couple weeks, I checked fluid and it was a little low, so I filled it. I checked fuses and swapped the fuel filter fuse. haven't done compression or checked spark plugs. have gas. took battery off after it died, and it tested at 13.5v. throwing no codes, haven't had it checked anyways.. but engine light comes on when in ON position. after it dies on me, tries to start and does but makes noises then dies eventually doesn't try at all but gauges shoot up for half a second, tried this with my jumper hooked up. Oh it does shake sometimes, mostly after driving it but stops in park. I didn't notice at first, but they took off the cat-back exhaust so there just the cat there and no muffler.
thanks
Last edited by Keatonmx; Dec 26, 2023 at 10:25 PM.
Reason: edited paragraph
I'll spew out a few common caveats.
1) Is the "hot air intake" filter oiled? Said oil is known to foul MAF sensors. Clean your MAF as it is a maintenance task anyway. Maybe give the filter element a wash, at least while you're troubleshooting.
2) Can the TPS wear as in later Rangers? Erratically changing TP readings can effect operation though I do not know if your symptoms are those of a worn TPS. TPS is readable by many tools; check for bouncing readings.
3) I do not know if bypassing your PCV system with the small air filter (atop the alternator in picture) effects engine performance but you might consider reinstalling the original routing. Original routing includes a grommet which seals (not leaking), a working PCV valve and tubing/hosing to its intake port.
Remember, cracks and breaks in the PCV system constitute vacuum leaks and might contribute to your problem. Aftermarket equipment installations invite oversight & error.
4) "I checked fuses and swapped the fuel filter fuse". There is no fuel filter fuse. There's a fuel pump fuse and yours is good or the engine would never start. Check your fuel pressure at the rail. I'm not versed on how fuel pumps fail (how long it takes or if it happens over time).
5) " engine light comes on when in ON position." Pull the codes using a code reader. Get one if you don't have one. If a store employee checks for codes for you, write them down before clearing them.
6) "after it dies on me, tries to start and does but makes noises then dies eventually doesn't try at all " WOAH, that's a big one! Are you saying the starter makes noises? If so, please try to describe...clicking or groaning? Does, "..eventually doesn't try at all", mean the starter doesn't actuate at all?
Make sure the starter is seated (no loose bolts) and shimmed correctly. A starter which jams its pinion gear hard into the TC/flywheel will fail.
7) Since the PO wired accessories "always on" (wrong), Heaven only knows what other mistakes live in your electrical system. Do make sure the engine's grounding straps are good and in place.
One of mine was a braid of oxidized copper and my twuck is 10 years newer than yours.
8) "they took off the cat-back exhaust so there just the cat there and no muffler". Is it loud?
I think you'll be crossing the "T"'s and dotting the "I's" of the PO's handiwork. Hey, it's likely why the truck was offered for sale. Get those codes.
HNY
Last edited by Georgeandkira; Dec 27, 2023 at 07:38 AM.
I'll spew out a few common caveats.
1) Is the "hot air intake" filter oiled? Said oil is known to foul MAF sensors. Clean your MAF as it is a maintenance task anyway. Maybe give the filter element a wash, at least while you're troubleshooting.
2) Can the TPS wear as in later Rangers? Erratically changing TP readings can effect operation though I do not know if your symptoms are those of a worn TPS. TPS is readable by many tools; check for bouncing readings.
3) I do not know if bypassing your PCV system with the small air filter (atop the alternator in picture) effects engine performance but you might consider reinstalling the original routing. Original routing includes a grommet which seals (not leaking), a working PCV valve and tubing/hosing to its intake port.
Remember, cracks and breaks in the PCV system constitute vacuum leaks and might contribute to your problem. Aftermarket equipment installations invite oversight & error.
4) "I checked fuses and swapped the fuel filter fuse". There is no fuel filter fuse. There's a fuel pump fuse and yours is good or the engine would never start. Check your fuel pressure at the rail. I'm not versed on how fuel pumps fail (how long it takes or if it happens over time).
5) " engine light comes on when in ON position." Pull the codes using a code reader. Get one if you don't have one. If a store employee checks for codes for you, write them down before clearing them.
6) "after it dies on me, tries to start and does but makes noises then dies eventually doesn't try at all " WOAH, that's a big one! Are you saying the starter makes noises? If so, please try to describe...clicking or groaning? Does, "..eventually doesn't try at all", mean the starter doesn't actuate at all?
Make sure the starter is seated (no loose bolts) and shimmed correctly. A starter which jams its pinion gear hard into the TC/flywheel will fail.
7) Since the PO wired accessories "always on" (wrong), Heaven only knows what other mistakes live in your electrical system. Do make sure the engine's grounding straps are good and in place.
One of mine was a braid of oxidized copper and my twuck is 10 years newer than yours.
8) "they took off the cat-back exhaust so there just the cat there and no muffler". Is it loud?
I think you'll be crossing the "T"'s and dotting the "I's" of the PO's handiwork. Hey, it's likely why the truck was offered for sale. Get those codes.
HNY
Going to let it die and check my fuel pressure. I think its the fuel pump, and there is a fuel pump relay BTW. Yeah the truck is loud without the catback, not crazy loud.
And no sorry, the truck does start and the gauges shoot up for half a second but instantly dies, starts right back up later. I found these models have bad fuel pumps that go out if it has been sitting. itll work till the truck is warmed up, then it stops working