Do yall think I could run a larger MAF Housing without a big problem. I found an extra housing laying around that came off of a SVT Contour. Im not sure on the size of it but it does fit the factory airbox and air duct hose. I swaped everything over just to make sure everything would fit before asking a question on it. I will try and get the sizes of both the MAF Housings (SVT Contour and Ranger) and post them up when I get them. Anyone know the factory size on a 1992 Ranger 4L 5 Speed?
Anyways, Here are a few pictures I took of the stuff.
Factory MAF Housing is on the Right side (Metal one).


Ranger MAF

SVT Contour MAF

 

Looks like the outlet is really the only smaller part.

I only can measure the outlet (the part of the stock MAF going to the inlet tube for the intake).

Outside dimension is 3 inch, inside is 2 and 5/8's. (actually, 3 and 1/16, and 2 and 11/16's, but I round down).

 

Yeah, I think it would flow more air but the way the MAF Sensor reads theair will be the same. I am thinking as long as I use the factory MAF Senor off the Ranger, I will be okay. I am gonna finish up the project 2maro and take it out for a drive and see if it runs right or better and see if I get a Check Engine Light or not.

 

The diameter of the sock housing is chosen to keep the velocity of the air up, so the MAF will be accurate. It is NOT restrictive, and will flow way more air than the engine is capable of pulling. All the larger diameter MAF housing will do is decrease the air velocity, causing the MAF sensor to be inaccurate.

 

As well, the MAF for that SVT will be calibrated to that engine. Switching them will render that part useless/ineffective

 

Well just to give your guys an update. I ended up scrapping the project cause the MAF Housing was giving me alot of **** trying to get the stock piping on the MAF housing. I could have gotten it on there but I just gave up cause I want to have the truck be drivable when I need it. I was atleast gonna get it on there and see how it ran but I just said **** it, and put everything back together. but while I had everything out, I fixed my airbox to seal better around the air filter.
Anyways, Just giving you guys an update.

 

You would have needed a tune to run it anyway.

 

Can I get a Tune for my 92? or would I have to do a chip?

 

Chip.

 

Anytime you change the induction of a engine that uses a MAF sensor, you'll effect the MAF sensors readings. Yes.. even just changing the shape of the filter will do this. (I've measured it)

The stock tune however is commanding a slightly richer than stoich burn. So in open loop (WOT) and not adjusting the tune.. the A/F will be different. Since the stock tune is a bit fat there are usually no side effects to a minor change like adding a K&N or Volant.

In this case changing the MAF altogether means you'd need to re-map the MAF transfer function. Also, any "tuner" who would do this via e-mail or snail mail would only be guessing. They might be a good guesser.. and they might not. It really comes down to their experience with the combo your wanting to run. And even at that.. it's still a guess unless they data log your particular combo.

On a stock 4.0L.. your not going to gain anything by changing the MAF. Besides.. the bottom end balancing is only good for about 5800rpms. And.. the heads have reached their max flow rates by then anyway.

Only if your spinning it to 6000+ and have done head work would I change the MAF and re-map it. Even then I'd personally try to run the stock MAF until it was maxed out. And.... EVEN THEN... I'd modify the stock MAF body and remap it just to save money.

Rich

 

Well for one, Im not doing this anymore and second, I wouldnt be changing the MAF, Just the MAF HOUSING.

 

Don't do it. It would be too much of a hassle for little to no gain.

 

Im not doing it cause I didnt want to fool with it. It was giving me a hard time getting things together so I just said **** it.

 

Yeah F it. Have a beer and a pizza.

 

lol, Thats what Im sayin, lol

 

I know this is resolved, but we made a larger MAF housing for 3.0's and it was exactly what Rich stated. We had to go back and forth several times with data logging on three different era's of obdII 3.0 Rangers to get them running correctly. At this point we have the data for all of them, but it was a challenge to get it done.

 

I understand your not doing it. I was trying to give usefull advice for anyone who might read this and want to gain a better understanding.

The crossectional area of the housing at the MAF sensor is what I'm trying to describe. If you change that area.. you change the sensors reading.

This is not a simple thing to do. And in most cases.. no matter the car/truck... if you have a stock n/a long block you'll gain very little by changing the MAF. And actually.. too large a MAF / body makes low flow rate tuning less accurate.

A guy really ought to map the transfer function and see if your maxing it out before stepping up to a larger body.

Rich