a few pictures, new 35's, the truck, etc.. - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #26  
Old 01-18-2010
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check this out..i would go 4.88...thats what im doing when i get the money..and il only be running 33's

Gear Ratio Guide For Larger Tires
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  #27  
Old 01-18-2010
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Yes, definitely get 4.88's. Although 4.56's will work, and would be the best choice if you ever plan to drop down to 33's.
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  #28  
Old 01-18-2010
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4.88s all the way.
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  #29  
Old 01-18-2010
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good luck and that's going to look kick *ss
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  #30  
Old 01-18-2010
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Originally Posted by brianjwilson View Post
Obviously you haven't learned about re-gearing. If you wanted to keep the same gearing as stock (4.10s and 31" tires) with 35" tires, you would use a 4.63 ratio which doesn't exist. So 4.56 is a higher gearing and you would be getting less power to the ground, not even factoring in the extra drag and extra rolling mass of the bigger/heavier tires. On top of that, the difference between 4.56 and 4.88 gears is only a couple hundred RPM at freeway speed.
4.10 gear and 33s will work okay for you though, for what it's worth.
hold up, i have learned about re-gearing, but i do a lot of hiway driving, and i the last thing i would want to do is bump my rpm HIGHER on the hiway... i would rather lose a little low end power but lower my RPM on the hiway, i almost want to take my 4.10's out and put in 3.73's or something like that....
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  #31  
Old 01-18-2010
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hold up, i have learned about re-gearing, but i do a lot of hiway driving, and i the last thing i would want to do is bump my rpm HIGHER on the hiway... i would rather lose a little low end power but lower my RPM on the hiway, i almost want to take my 4.10's out and put in 3.73's or something like that....
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  #32  
Old 01-18-2010
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Gonna be sweet man!!
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  #33  
Old 01-18-2010
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Brian, Yes, my pickup is a 4.0L OHV with auto trans.

I talked to Randys Ring and Pinion today during my lunch break, the gentleman told me 4.56 would put my truck right at about stock performance with the 35's and that 4.88's would put me just above stock. He recommended 4.88s and said that there is only around 100RPM difference vs. the 4.56. More than likely, 4.88s is where i'll be, especially after hearing what some of you guys had to say. I should be doing business with them here in the next few months, he quoted me around 1600 total front and rear, with the same day turn around.
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  #34  
Old 01-18-2010
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Originally Posted by --weezl-- View Post
hold up, i have learned about re-gearing, but i do a lot of hiway driving, and i the last thing i would want to do is bump my rpm HIGHER on the hiway... i would rather lose a little low end power but lower my RPM on the hiway, i almost want to take my 4.10's out and put in 3.73's or something like that....
newer fords love RPMs...

you want to work the engine less, aka more RPM. 4.88s for sure!

im running 5.13s and 42s with a 400+ hp v8 in the next few months and i dont think that will be enough! lol
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  #35  
Old 01-18-2010
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Originally Posted by LiftKitRanger View Post
Brian, Yes, my pickup is a 4.0L OHV with auto trans.

I talked to Randys Ring and Pinion today during my lunch break, the gentleman told me 4.56 would put my truck right at about stock performance with the 35's and that 4.88's would put me just above stock. He recommended 4.88s and said that there is only around 100RPM difference vs. the 4.56. More than likely, 4.88s is where i'll be, especially after hearing what some of you guys had to say. I should be doing business with them here in the next few months, he quoted me around 1600 total front and rear, with the same day turn around.
he is close but no one thinks about rotational mass! 35s weigh alot more than 31s!

4.88s will be perfect.
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  #36  
Old 01-18-2010
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gonna look good.
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  #37  
Old 01-18-2010
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with a 400+ hp v8 in the next few months and i dont think that will be enough! lol
sorry for the thread jack and know that i've been outta the loop but ummmmm WHAT!?!?!?
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  #38  
Old 01-19-2010
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[IMG]http://www.costeira.com/upl/uploads/facepalm.png[/IM]
tom, get a life

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Originally Posted by zabeard View Post
newer fords love RPMs...

you want to work the engine less, aka more RPM. 4.88s for sure!
maybe so, but i'm mostly looking at it from a street drive-ability aspect, i don't know about the rest of you, but i don't want to be running 3500 rpm for 2 hours a day...

i understand all of your points, but i stand by my decision, that i wouldn't go quite as high as 4.88's, i would go with 4.56's, but that's me...
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  #39  
Old 01-19-2010
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Originally Posted by --weezl-- View Post
maybe so, but i'm mostly looking at it from a street drive-ability aspect, i don't know about the rest of you, but i don't want to be running 3500 rpm for 2 hours a day...

i understand all of your points, but i stand by my decision, that i wouldn't go quite as high as 4.88's, i would go with 4.56's, but that's me...
Higher RPM like Zach said, is less work and load on the motor. This can in time lead to increase in mileage, because the motor works half as much to do the same thing as a motor with tall gearing with your foot in it.

You have to understand the OHV produces about 20 less HP than the SOHC does from the factory. It also is a low RPM power motor where as the SOHC gets is power in the higher RPM's. So he's going to need the gears to get that thing going... AKA taking off with 35's... Especially with an auto. Ask my buddy Austin. He ran 35's, 3.73's with open carrier, and his auto trans for about 4-6mo before it literally grenaded on him. Then he swapped to a manual trans right before I did, and then swapped in 4.88's. He'll never look back. I highly recommend with your motor and trans combo you have now and your future in the truck, spend the money on re-gearing. Your truck will definitely thank you later.
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  #40  
Old 01-19-2010
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Originally Posted by --weezl-- View Post
tom, get a life



maybe so, but i'm mostly looking at it from a street drive-ability aspect, i don't know about the rest of you, but i don't want to be running 3500 rpm for 2 hours a day...

i understand all of your points, but i stand by my decision, that i wouldn't go quite as high as 4.88's, i would go with 4.56's, but that's me...
Maybe you didn't read right. The difference between 4.56 gears and 4.88s gears on a ranger is only a little over 200 rpm at 70mph. So again, if you take...


Nevermind, forget it. I'm wasting my time explaining this to you. lol
Short story, 4.88s and 35s IS VERY STREETABLE.
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  #41  
Old 01-19-2010
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Originally Posted by --weezl-- View Post
tom, get a life
I has 1.

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Originally Posted by TrePaul86 View Post
Higher RPM like Zach said, is less work and load on the motor. This can in time lead to increase in mileage, because the motor works half as much to do the same thing as a motor with tall gearing with your foot in it.

You have to understand the OHV produces about 20 less HP than the SOHC does from the factory. It also is a low RPM power motor where as the SOHC gets is power in the higher RPM's. So he's going to need the gears to get that thing going... AKA taking off with 35's... Especially with an auto. Ask my buddy Austin. He ran 35's, 3.73's with open carrier, and his auto trans for about 4-6mo before it literally grenaded on him. Then he swapped to a manual trans right before I did, and then swapped in 4.88's. He'll never look back. I highly recommend with your motor and trans combo you have now and your future in the truck, spend the money on re-gearing. Your truck will definitely thank you later.
What he said.
Quote:
Originally Posted by brianjwilson View Post
Maybe you didn't read right. The difference between 4.56 gears and 4.88s gears on a ranger is only a little over 200 rpm at 70mph. So again, if you take...


Nevermind, forget it. I'm wasting my time explaining this to you. lol
Short story, 4.88s and 35s IS VERY STREETABLE.
What he said.

To the OP:
Moar pictures meow!!!!
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  #42  
Old 01-19-2010
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Originally Posted by TrePaul86 View Post
Higher RPM like Zach said, is less work and load on the motor. This can in time lead to increase in mileage, because the motor works half as much to do the same thing as a motor with tall gearing with your foot in it.

You have to understand the OHV produces about 20 less HP than the SOHC does from the factory. It also is a low RPM power motor where as the SOHC gets is power in the higher RPM's. So he's going to need the gears to get that thing going... AKA taking off with 35's... Especially with an auto. Ask my buddy Austin. He ran 35's, 3.73's with open carrier, and his auto trans for about 4-6mo before it literally grenaded on him. Then he swapped to a manual trans right before I did, and then swapped in 4.88's. He'll never look back. I highly recommend with your motor and trans combo you have now and your future in the truck, spend the money on re-gearing. Your truck will definitely thank you later.
Totally agree with that, ever since before i bought all this stuff for my truck, i knew i would be regearing. I think it will be the best investment i will have made for my truck. I can't wait to bring it down to Randy's Ring and Pinion here pretty quick
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  #43  
Old 01-19-2010
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Lock that ***** up while it's getting re-geared!
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  #44  
Old 01-19-2010
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i stand by what I said, i don't think it is worth getting into a heated debate about it, i think we can just agree to disagree?

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Lock that ***** up while it's getting re-geared!
seldom will i say this, i agree with tom 100% here... lockers for sure, or at the least l/s up front and locker in the rear
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  #45  
Old 01-19-2010
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The front D35, is weak and with a 4.0L will grenade that front end. The rear however would be a good idea.
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  #46  
Old 01-20-2010
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4.88 will work fine. I have 5.13s (and 35s) and I think for MY setup they are perfect. All of those fancy calculators didn't do crap but lie to me. I get great mileage for what it is and I wouldn't even touch 4.56 gears with 35s. 4.88 or 5.13 all the way!
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  #47  
Old 01-20-2010
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seldom will i say this, i agree with tom 100% here...
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  #48  
Old 01-20-2010
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I should point out that some limited slips do not fit with 4.88 gears, it may just be the torsen diff. Lunchbox lockers will require grinding the ring gear down slightly but it is standard procedure for anyone who installs gears.
I ran an aussie locker up front with my sport trac on 33s and I didn't break anything, but I didn't have it in there long before I traded it in. It was AWESOME on the trails (steering was tight though) but a little sketchy in snow. I carried spare CVs and gear oil with me everywhere because I expected something to break.
Locking the rear has a lot more benefit (in my opinion) with less risk and better handling. This would also be a good chance to keep an eye out for an explorer rear axle while you are waiting to gear. Might as well start with a stronger axle!
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  #49  
Old 01-20-2010
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Yeah, it is just the torsens that don't allow for larger ring gear. Shane and I have a buddy, Austy, running 4.88's and a Trac-Loc and no problems.

I'm on board with Brian though!
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  #50  
Old 01-20-2010
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lol
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