I finally did it said good bye to my CRAPPY drum brakes that needed more wheel cylinders then i had time to care for. you have to love MI road salt and destroying them constantly.

First 2 Huge thank you's to Brandon(redrocket) for getting the parts from the junk yard, surprisingly there is hardly any mustangs in the junk yards up here. And David (forgot s/n) for stopping by at just the right moment and going and getting me shorter brake lines (bought to long originally) and helping me bleed the brakes I would still be out there if he had not stopped by to help.


ok I am gonna post some pics and brief explanations of things i feel the How-To on the 94-04 Cobra brakes missed. I will be showing some stuff for people that want to use GT. Not everyone is running 16+ wheels and want the larger brakes or can run larger.


ok jack up the truck and take the wheels off









Now get rid of all that drum brake crap! (my fav part! lol)












Now you need to remove the rear diff and rotate the carrier around till you see the center pin bolt. remove it and the center pin. (FYI if you are an open diff have fun with the spider gears) now with the center pin removed push on the axles and release the C-clips take them out. now you can remove the axles to get the backing plate off














now with the axle removed unbolt the rear backing plates, now with the backing plate out of the way you can install the mustang brackets on the back side of the axle flange that you already cut...














now I used the stock mustang soft lines and also used shorter hard lines from the distribution block. you will need an adapter (pictured) to do this any auto parts store should have it.











Now install all the new mustang parts. FYI on the caliper brackets to the main brackets I had to install a Washer in between them to get the correct spacing on the disc. washer can be seen on the 3rd picture down. Spacing shown on the 4th
















Now thats where my photo's end you still need to install the new hard lines to the adapter then to the soft lines and bleed the brakes ALSO DO NOT forget to install the diff cover and refill LOL.... I ran out of light so that's all i have for tonight.

 

Are the e brakes in he caliper or a small drum setup in the rotor?

 

they clip onto the caliper just like the drum did on the shoe, only thing you need to do which is stated in the How-To is you need a copper pipe to correct where the e-brake would clip into the backing plate.

I didnt install the E-brake yet being I was running out of time and forgot to get the copper pipe. thought I had some in the garage turned out to be the wrong size

 

I will more than likely have more questions later. I will be doing this next weekend as I have a leaking axle seal that covered my brakes in oil. If I need to change them I may as well upgrade

 

how they feel?

 

amazing compared to my drums. it actually stops when I want it too.

 

stopping on a dime?

 

im having the issue with the damn wheel cyl. ive been wanting these for a bit, probly should start collecting parts... what do you have invested in parts, that is if you dont mind telling?

 

i wouldnt go that far I am lugging around toyo MT and a cap... if those weren't there and it was stock height heck ya lol.. but now it isnt. I think i can brake... I might brake.... now it is YES I AM GONNA BRAKE!

 

damn....id probably ruin something if i did this lol i have NO patience for this stuff....my drums suck i have the same problem with the cylinders going all the time

good work though!

 

um Brandon said he paid around $40 for the stuff from the J/Y. I paid him $60 and dinner at a stake place for pulling the stuff off for me lol...

I think it was $60 for the rotors, $55 for the Wagner Thermoquiet pads, and like lets say $45 for brake fluid, adapters, brake clean, and rear end fluid and RTV...


so $175 ish? i went a little high on all the prices to just be fair

 

I wont lie it took me a good half a day. I was going EXTREMELY slow so I wouldnt screw something up or forget something. if I had to do another set i think it would take maybe 2 hours TOPS now that i have it down and figured out the goof ups and such of the install

 

ahhh......i might have to start collecting parts then i need to finish getting my 8.8 completed to get it in too...7.5 still going like a champ even with burnouts haha

 

seems to be the hardest part would be the stuff in the diff... but still not difficult.... then maybe the alignment of the calipers

 

lol non-vented rotors

BALLIN'

 

ya inside the diff is cake, just smelly as all hell with the limited slip additive and I was pissed because I just changed it in April lol.....


Aligning the caliper bracket i wont lie i was about finished at that point when i bolted it and noticed it was touching the rotor... then after having a beer and looking at it for a min. i was like F-ing S**t I can just space it out with a washer and be done with it... LOL... and done

 

I can't wait to do this swap next week. I would really like to have the feeling of knowing my truck can stop when I need it too

 

much better glade ya like...

 

Looks good! Love my rear discs!

Did you change the axle shaft seals too? They look pretty gnarly.

 

No there actually not leaking at all cleaned them up. What your seeing is a build up of brake shoe dust. Now that I said there not leaking well we all know what will happen now haha I was gonna change them and forgot to order some before I started so screw it for now

 

not a bad swap!! when i was reading i was trying to figure out for the longest time why the HECK you had to pull your diff cover and crosspin to take out the shafts?!! but then i realized that i had totally forgot about those c-clips! its been so long since i have had an 8.8! haha nice mod non the less

 

Looks good!!!!

 

haha id like to be able to think that when its a toss up at a yellow/red whether you can stop or should just plow through

 

Seems like I might require your help with this sometime in the next year.

 

Ya no prob Tyler it's easy