i have a 1996 ford ranger with 2.3 4cyl. Developed a rough idle and hesitation/slight stumble(upon accelerating at times). I replaced plug, wires, air filter and fuel filter, nothing changed. Engine code says misfire cyclinder 1. I recently replace both coil packs, replaced wires and plugs again, changed timing belt(wore badly), water pump and thermostat. STILL the problem exists. gets decent mileage still right at 25mpg on hwy, but when reved up or slowing down tends to idle very roughly, or die. I need to remedy this ASAP as I have a long trip coming up. PLease any help would be greatly appreciated. Plugs all look good too.

 

my son truck did the same thing I changed every thing you did and more then I changed the fuel injectors that did it. it runs fine now

 

Thank you. Did you buy the injectors at local parts house, or online? ive seen them cheap on ebay, but not sure if thats the way to go. I did buy the coilpacks off ebay, and they were good deal.

 

got mine on ebay they are a better buy

 

engine code said misfire in cylinder #1, i took injector out today, going to attemp to clean it. (watched video on youtube, using battery and rubber tubing) any other suggestions on cleaning injector, or how i can tell if it is woking properly?

 

when you start ur truck take the plug off the injector as its running see if the motor has any change on how its running if it has no change then it the injector if it makes it run worse then its not the injector

 

I'll try that, thank you

 

Fuel Pressure Regulator is the very first thing I would replace before spending alot of money on injecters....this is a very common problem with Ford engines, and it will gradually get worse until you replace it. Tell you what, pull out your oil dipstick and see if the oil smells like gas....

 

next thing i would try is a full can of seafoam mixed in with the fuel tank

and possibly a failing fuel pump

also check vacuum line to fuel pressure regulator

 

Took intake plenum off and cleaned it thoroughly, along with throttle body, decided to go ahead and replace IAC and TPS while it was off. Also replaced o-rings, washers, pintle caps and filters on injectors, after cleaning them.
For 2 days now no engine code, but hard to start at times, and also has died a couple of times. If you rev it a bit ad let off it will idle VERY roughly and sometimes die. Apprx 2 weeks ago before I took injectors out I had local garage check compression and fuel pressure, which they said were fine. Also had them double chevk for vacuum leaks to make sure I hadn't missed any.

That being said, I have replaced wires, plugs,coil packs, timing belt(needed it badly) tensioner, thermostat, water pump, IAC,TPS, ad fuel filter. Also filled up with non ethanol fuel. WHAT else can I do? ANY ideas?

 

go to your auto zone , buy a can of pressurized fuel injector , screw included hose onto valve connected to the fuel injector rail , pull off the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose and plug the hose

remove the fuel pump fuse and set the fuse aside

start engine ( the engine will run off of the injector cleaner can ) run the engine till the engine stalls

remove injector cleaner hose , re-connect the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose

re-insert the fuel pump fuse ( ignition off )

start engine and listen for erratic engine idle, if the engine idle is still erratic

then it is time to replace the fuel pump

 

I'll definitely try that...is there anything else to also consider? As one can understand I'm getting a bit tired of working on it..

 

I think I've heard someone mention a fuel pump inertia switch.

 

the next step would be !!

un-bolt and remove the EGR valve - to inspect the carbon buiild-up inside the EGR valve

most times , excessive carbon build-up inside the EGR valve will cause the valve to jam in the slightly open position - allowing the constant flow of exhaust gases to enter the intake manifold , which in turn would cause erratic idle issues , which the engine computer cannot compensate for - thus generating the check engine light

 

Ok, I've done every thing I can think of and nothing seems to fix the problem. Check engine light was off for apprx 1week, now back on. Had advance auto check code as it said (301) cylinder 1 misfire.... What the heck..

 

a single cylinder misfire is usually caused by a nearly plugged up fuel injector

pour a full can of seafoam in with your fuel and drive it for a few days

the seafoam should clean out the injector(s)

 

I just had the injectors out. I cleaned each one with Gummout injector cleaner( hooked a syringe as tube to top of injectors as used a battery to actuate ) ran apprx 100 ml through each one. Replaced pintle caps, washers and I-rings as well.

 

O-rings

 

100ml of injector cleaner will not completely flush out encrusted carbon buildup inside the injector

try the seafoam treatment 1st , if you still get a misfire in cyl 1 then i would replace the injector

 

I didn't put the injectors bak in same spot, so if it's still saying MIS fire cylinder 1, what else could it be?

 

Have used the seafoam before as well

 

check to see if injector #1 power connector is transmitting voltage

the connector could be damaged or failed completely ( not transmitting voltage at all )

could also account for the misfire in cyl #1

 

Help changed bushing for shifter on 92 ranger while in gear help on how to free it up.

 

hesitation, not in 1st or 2nd gear, only in 3rd, 4th and 5th. Began after transmission replaced and plugs. Got worse, even after plugs, wires, fuel filter and pump, converter, muffler, two coils, three complete diagnostics eventually averaging 140-180 compression #3&4 strongest. Scoping valves for spring or others problems, leak down under10%, fuel flow & pressure fine, amf sensor giving computer a high elevation read, fuel mix rich at 2000 rpm's with slight load. Strong in first and second gear. Starts sputtering into 3rd & 4th. Acts like it if flooding out, by creating similar load as slower speed by riding brakes till sputtering begins, and a strong smell of unburned fuel.

Timing belt off or stretched by 6% and crank shaft pulley hub maybe 1% or 1/16" play.

Big question...
If hesitation continues with a new pulley hub and timing belt, what next? I already bought anew egr valve. Computer next? Another sensor? What? Everything else checks out mechanically sound including transmission which is standard 5 speed. 145,000 miles, no leaks, no blue smoke or oil loss. Well taken care of.

Help!

 

Did the timing belt, crankshaft pulley hub and egr,,, no change.