Torque pro app reading boost under wot
Torque pro app reading boost under wot
I recently bought a 1997 ranger with the 2.3, and when I'm driving at wide open throttle, under full load, my torque pro app is showing 1-2 pounds of boost. Not sure why this is happening, but I'm also experiencing an astonishing lack of power and a very laggy throttle response. Any ideas? Thanks everyone in advance.
OBD2 is not real data as far as air flow and vacuum, its a calculation based on the info YOU entered in your vehicle profile in the Torque APP
If you have a lack of power then either vacuum is low or exhaust in restricted
Get a vacuum gauge, real one, lol, and test engine
If you have a lack of power then either vacuum is low or exhaust in restricted
Get a vacuum gauge, real one, lol, and test engine
With a vacuum gauge, you should test any manifold vacuum source between the throttle body and the head.
Yes, get $20 vacuum gauge and hook it up to a Capped vacuum port on the upper intake, remove the cap of course
Look at this picture: https://ww2-secure.justanswer.com/up...4_100_1676.JPG
Behind oil dipstick is the vacuum manifold, several vacuum ports, larger hose goes to Power Brake Booster, just below it, in the picture, are 2 capped vacuum ports, hook up vacuum gauge to either one
You can test compression and exhaust restrictions from this hook up, and A LOT MORE, vacuum gauge is one of the better tools to have
Read here: https://www.gregsengine.com/using-a-vacuum-gauge.html
No matter what "they" add to the outside of a gasoline engine, the engine is STILL a self power air pump, so vacuum pressure will always be a good way to test running condition of any gas engine, from a single cylinder to a V12, size doesn't matter they all work the same
Look at this picture: https://ww2-secure.justanswer.com/up...4_100_1676.JPG
Behind oil dipstick is the vacuum manifold, several vacuum ports, larger hose goes to Power Brake Booster, just below it, in the picture, are 2 capped vacuum ports, hook up vacuum gauge to either one
You can test compression and exhaust restrictions from this hook up, and A LOT MORE, vacuum gauge is one of the better tools to have
Read here: https://www.gregsengine.com/using-a-vacuum-gauge.html
No matter what "they" add to the outside of a gasoline engine, the engine is STILL a self power air pump, so vacuum pressure will always be a good way to test running condition of any gas engine, from a single cylinder to a V12, size doesn't matter they all work the same
Awesome, I'm at 7000 feet elevation so I should be accounting for a 5 inch drop if I'm not mistaken. I'll make a run to the auto parts store and when I get it checked out I'll post results. Thank you all so much
First problem encountered, either my truck didn't come with the vacuum junction showed in the pic, or someone has bypassed it. My brake booster line goes into a silver hex fitting with a single nipple on the side for the 2 red lines
Sorry for multiple posts in a row.
Here's what happening guys. At idle, the needle is vibrating and fluctuating from 16-15 in/hg of vacuum. I'm at elevation so it should be close to normal, being 5 inches below normal. The fluctuation is worrying me however, and it tends to drop half an inch randomly. Also my maf reading maxed out at 1530 cfm at one point.
Here's what happening guys. At idle, the needle is vibrating and fluctuating from 16-15 in/hg of vacuum. I'm at elevation so it should be close to normal, being 5 inches below normal. The fluctuation is worrying me however, and it tends to drop half an inch randomly. Also my maf reading maxed out at 1530 cfm at one point.
Yes 15/16 would be OK at 7,000ft
Try blocking off PCV Valve vacuum to see if vacuum gets steady
Misfire can cause the drop but you should "feel" that, do you?
How did the Blip Test come out for blocked exhaust?
Not sure why MAF data would change unless RPM did?
MAF uses a 5volt scale, usually .6v at idle to 3.5volt at wide open throttle, 5,500RPMs+
Switch MAF readings to Grams per second, at idle it should be close to engine displacement, i.e. 2.3 in your case
On the 1997 2.3l you can test each coil pack and its spark plugs easily
Key off, unplug either coil packs 3 wire connector
Start engine
Should start and run fine using just 4 spark plugs, idle may be a bit lower, and slightly less performance, you can drive it this way
If no misfires then all 4 spark plugs are working
Repeat but with just the other coil pack, to make sure it's 4 spark plugs are also all working.
Popular MYTH on these 8 spark plug engines is that spark alternates, it doesn't, lol, the point of having dual spark plugs is for better performance from the engine, so BOTH spark plug must fire at the same time to get that better performance or why bother with dual spark plugs
Try blocking off PCV Valve vacuum to see if vacuum gets steady
Misfire can cause the drop but you should "feel" that, do you?
How did the Blip Test come out for blocked exhaust?
Not sure why MAF data would change unless RPM did?
MAF uses a 5volt scale, usually .6v at idle to 3.5volt at wide open throttle, 5,500RPMs+
Switch MAF readings to Grams per second, at idle it should be close to engine displacement, i.e. 2.3 in your case
On the 1997 2.3l you can test each coil pack and its spark plugs easily
Key off, unplug either coil packs 3 wire connector
Start engine
Should start and run fine using just 4 spark plugs, idle may be a bit lower, and slightly less performance, you can drive it this way
If no misfires then all 4 spark plugs are working
Repeat but with just the other coil pack, to make sure it's 4 spark plugs are also all working.
Popular MYTH on these 8 spark plug engines is that spark alternates, it doesn't, lol, the point of having dual spark plugs is for better performance from the engine, so BOTH spark plug must fire at the same time to get that better performance or why bother with dual spark plugs
Last edited by RonD; Jun 22, 2019 at 10:26 AM.
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