You'll have to measure and see. I'm not sure if the u joint on your axel is gonna fall where mine does or not. (I'm not SAS, just super lifted).


Hopefully razorsedge will chime in on the ps lines too.

sorry guys one more question, those radius arms your using do you know how many degrees they are bent? i'm making my own but don't have access to a bender so id like to have a number to tell the guy who bends it.

i'm in the home stretch now of gathering parts and information, pretty soon i will be adding my own build thread.

Zabeard made an excellent thread about sas steering several years ago. Even though some pics are missing now the thread is still very good. It should give you all the info you need to get your steering going. This is assuming you'll be using the toyota steering box. It also covers making a steering shaft that won't let you down.

Click> https://www.ranger-forums.com/fabric...ing-box-70000/

As for the driveshaft an expo shaft probably won't be long enough. You'll most likely have to get it lengthened and have a driveline shop do the calculations so you get the correct length and enough travel in the slip joint.

Mind giving us some details about the parts you'll be using? Axle, steering box, etc?

There's some good info on radius arms in certain threads, I'm personally using Rubicon express long arms(wouldn't recommend them) which are adjustable on the upper and lower arms. They aren't something you'll use most likely unless you're running a d30?

thanks, ill have to do some reading on that steering thread.

yes i plan on using a toyota steering box with drop pitman arm.
cross over steering with the teraflex knuckle.
HP dana 30 out of a cherokee, non disconnect.

using johnny joints and ballistic fab brackets for radius arm mounts on frame and axle side.

using 2" .250 wall for lower radius arm and 1.75" .250 wall for upper, upper and lower will be fully adjustable.

re using the shock hoops off my old dixon bros long travel kit to mount coilovers.