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Hello, I was wondering if anybody has lifted their 2011? The Superlift isn't compatible with the 2011 due to TC/Stability Control issues.
The Rough Country one is affordable, but it requires 17" inch wheels. This will cost an extra $1000 minimum for new wheels and tires. Is there anyway to run my stock 16" wheels with this lifting? I am not looking to spend money on new wheels and tires.
I have a 2010 Sport and did a 3in lift with stock 15s; however it is 2wd so I just did the spindles. A lot of companys just dont bother making kits for our Stablitrak Trucks but the spindle kit from Doetsch come with bigger ABS sensors that fix the problem. Normally people who lift the 10-11 trucks just run without Stablitrak and they have no issues. You might try to contrant Doestech and see if they might sell you the ABS part seperate. I know its slim but hey its better then nothing.
Going back to your original post I see I completely missed you whole point. I apologize for the stupid reply.
Last edited by SebastianA; Aug 19, 2020 at 01:25 PM.
Reason: Was completely off topic thought I have 2WD
Wow it seems that the TC/Stability Control is an issue for lifting the 2010/11 Rangers. I have a 2011 Ranger sport 4x4 and LOVE my TC/Stability Control on the mountains as I live on an island in the Caribbean with some STEEP hills and when it rains it is priceless...
So the questions is; What is the best option for a levee/lift of about 3" for this model while still being able to keep my TC/Stability Control engaged?
I just want a few extra inches to be able to fit 31" tires and get a bit better clearance... Thanks!
The 2008-2011 4x4 Rangers sit lower than the older trucks due to Ford changing the torsion keys and the rear blocks for fuel economy and handling reasons. A popular mod for the newer trucks is to find a set of the older keys and blocks and swap them into the newer trucks to gain around 1" of ride height. Also look into "cranking" the torsion bars for a little extra lift on top of that. Finally, look into either shackles or an "Add A Leaf" kit to give you some extra lift in the rear. All of these things combined should allow you to run 31's on a 2008+ Ranger 4x4 without issue.
I managed to lift my 2011 XLT 2.3 with 4 inch spindles and 2 inch blocks in the back and got all of the TC/ABS gremlins sorted. It took me some time, but eventually I got everything to work. The spindle lift kits all say they won’t work with the 2011s with advancetrac even though they’ll bolt right up. The issue for the 2wd spindle lifts is that the 2011 runs a different style wheel speed sensor (WSS). You can try to bolt the stock ones up, but the mounting holes are in different spots and the air gap is too much for the WSS to get a reading from the tone ring. If you bolt up the old style sensor it fits in the back of the spindle and bolts up great, but again the air gap is too big for it to get a good reading causing the advancetrac system to freak out. Then there’s the added issue that the lower control arms will hit the old style sensors when the wheel is at full lock. I fixed it by carefully inspecting the hub and rotor to make sure the runout on the wheel and tone ring was in spec. Then I made a set of WSS from a combination of the old style sensor and the new sensors. I took the deutsch connector from the new style sensor and soldered it to the old style sensor. Then I mounted them up and checked the air gap. On both spindles the air gap from the sensor to the tone ring was about .25 inches when the spec is .04-1.3mm. To fix this I machined off about .25 inches off both sides of the mounting point on the sensor. Having big tires also messes with the advancetrac system. To fix the final WSS issues after I got it all back together I used a scanner that allowed active tests. I set it up to view and log all the WSS as the truck was moving. Initially the front and rear tires were reading speeds 1-1.5 mph different while traveling in a straight line. This was caused by the tires in the front of the truck carrying more load than the rears. Odds are I wouldn’t have any issues with tire pressures if I was running smaller tires. The larger tires squish more under load. This makes the total diameter of the tire a little smaller making the wheels speeds differ. To remedy this I messed with tire pressures until going in a straight line I was getting the same reading from all 4 tires. I ended up with 28 psi in the rear and 35 psi in the front. After this I haven’t had any issues with the advancetrac freaking out. If I do, I’ll update the thread.
