4X4 2001+ Lift Options Look Here First
#126
#129
For the most part all the options listed will work 98+ but the pvh can bring up issues from what I have heard.
Last edited by mikerider; 02-07-2012 at 05:15 PM.
#132
#133
The spacers bolt to the top of the stock knuckles then the upper ball joint bolts in the the spacer. for something that has as much leverage applied to it a bolted in spacer is not ideal.
#134
#135
Ya you can get them new. They pop up used more often then you would think. The knuckles also raise the outer tie rod mount solving the steering issues.
#136
#138
#139
#141
UPDATED pics,
This is a guide on the lift options for 2001+ 4x4 rangers. just thought it would be nice to have all the pics in one place. note: all pics were found through various forums , if the owner would not like their truck displayed in this thread please pm me and i will remove the pic. any way on to the options for lifts.
Here is the starting point for many of our trucks for comparison:
Option 1: T-bar crank 1-2 in (Free)
The basics: tighten the preload bolt on the Torsion bar, this causes the truck to ride higher in its suspension giving you a stiffer ride and 1-2 in of "lift"
The result:
Option 2: bigger tires 1-3 in ($300-$600)
The basics: the ranger has nice big wheel wells that can fit 33x10.5 or 32x11.5 inch tires on stock or 15x8in wheels, this is a nice cheap way to get more under axel clearance.
The result:
Option 3: 1in Body lift ($50-100)
The basics: a body lift uses blocks and longer body bolts to raise the body off the frame alowing for larger tires. this is an inexpensive way to get 32x11.5 tires to stop rubbing. this is a do it yourself lift, that uses 12 1 inch by 3 inch wide BL spacers availible on ebay also longer body bolts and new washers from the hardware store are required. no additional modifications are needed, but some interferance with the shift bezel may be encountered on manuals, this reguires slight clearancing with a dremal. more info can be found here.
The results:
Option 4: 3in PA Body lift ($200+)
The basics: a body lift uses blocks and longer body bolts to raise the body off the frame alowing for larger tires. bodylifts are cheap (200 ish) and alow 33x12.5 inch tires to be mounted with no rubbing. the problem with bodylifts is; 1. you need a shift extension for manuals and if you are lucky enough to have amanual transfercase the shifters hit the body floor and wont engage, and an extension is not made for this. 2. the bumpers are atached to the frame, leaving a 3in gap, brakets are included to fix this but they are flimsy to say the least. also tow hooks and hitches bring up a problem.
The results:
Option 5: Superlift 4in ($1600)
The basics: the superlift kit uses drop brakets to lower the suspension compnets giving you lift. this is a solid kit but has a few drawbacks; 1. Tbars remain at stock height and hang down. 2. it wears your front drive shaft, and the Superlift DS is $400 adding to the price of the kit. gives clearance for 33x12.5 inch tires. (pictured is 4in superlift with 285/75R16 tires)
The results:
Option 6: RCD 5.5in suspension lift ($2300)
The basics: this kit replaces the factory torsion bars with coil-over shocks, giving you clearance under the truck and clearance for 33x12.5 in tires with no rubbing but 35s ave been fitted with slight rubbing i believe also this kit requires minor welding.
The result:
Option 7: Dixion brothers Racing LT 4x4 kit (3000+)
The basics: this is a long travel IFS kit that gives about 2.5 in of lift with 14 in of front travel (twice the stock travel) it is a dessert racing (prerunner) kit that retains the 4x4 and makes for an extremly capable truck. 33x12.5 tires work the best becuse of the extreme travel.
The result:
Option 8: Solid Axel Swap 5in to 10in ( 2000+ ish)
The basics: there is no kit for a Solid Axle Swap (SAS) but it involves replacing the front IFS with solid axle and grafting in suspension (usual leaf or coil springs) and steering. fabrication skills are necessary but the result is amazing, you basically build the truck to what you want. almost any tire size will fit it just depends on how it is built, 35 to 40 inch tires are the trend.
The result:
these are the main options for our rangers this is just to let you know what is available and each lift has its own pros and cons that if search can be answered for you. hope somebody finds this useful, and if any one has anything to add or edit or comment let me know, im no expert but was tired of 10 thousand posts on the same topic. ( as many others are ) oh and to the powers that be can we make this a sticky?
This is a guide on the lift options for 2001+ 4x4 rangers. just thought it would be nice to have all the pics in one place. note: all pics were found through various forums , if the owner would not like their truck displayed in this thread please pm me and i will remove the pic. any way on to the options for lifts.
Here is the starting point for many of our trucks for comparison:
Option 1: T-bar crank 1-2 in (Free)
The basics: tighten the preload bolt on the Torsion bar, this causes the truck to ride higher in its suspension giving you a stiffer ride and 1-2 in of "lift"
The result:
Option 2: bigger tires 1-3 in ($300-$600)
The basics: the ranger has nice big wheel wells that can fit 33x10.5 or 32x11.5 inch tires on stock or 15x8in wheels, this is a nice cheap way to get more under axel clearance.
The result:
Option 3: 1in Body lift ($50-100)
The basics: a body lift uses blocks and longer body bolts to raise the body off the frame alowing for larger tires. this is an inexpensive way to get 32x11.5 tires to stop rubbing. this is a do it yourself lift, that uses 12 1 inch by 3 inch wide BL spacers availible on ebay also longer body bolts and new washers from the hardware store are required. no additional modifications are needed, but some interferance with the shift bezel may be encountered on manuals, this reguires slight clearancing with a dremal. more info can be found here.
The results:
Option 4: 3in PA Body lift ($200+)
The basics: a body lift uses blocks and longer body bolts to raise the body off the frame alowing for larger tires. bodylifts are cheap (200 ish) and alow 33x12.5 inch tires to be mounted with no rubbing. the problem with bodylifts is; 1. you need a shift extension for manuals and if you are lucky enough to have amanual transfercase the shifters hit the body floor and wont engage, and an extension is not made for this. 2. the bumpers are atached to the frame, leaving a 3in gap, brakets are included to fix this but they are flimsy to say the least. also tow hooks and hitches bring up a problem.
The results:
Option 5: Superlift 4in ($1600)
The basics: the superlift kit uses drop brakets to lower the suspension compnets giving you lift. this is a solid kit but has a few drawbacks; 1. Tbars remain at stock height and hang down. 2. it wears your front drive shaft, and the Superlift DS is $400 adding to the price of the kit. gives clearance for 33x12.5 inch tires. (pictured is 4in superlift with 285/75R16 tires)
The results:
Option 6: RCD 5.5in suspension lift ($2300)
The basics: this kit replaces the factory torsion bars with coil-over shocks, giving you clearance under the truck and clearance for 33x12.5 in tires with no rubbing but 35s ave been fitted with slight rubbing i believe also this kit requires minor welding.
The result:
Option 7: Dixion brothers Racing LT 4x4 kit (3000+)
The basics: this is a long travel IFS kit that gives about 2.5 in of lift with 14 in of front travel (twice the stock travel) it is a dessert racing (prerunner) kit that retains the 4x4 and makes for an extremly capable truck. 33x12.5 tires work the best becuse of the extreme travel.
The result:
Option 8: Solid Axel Swap 5in to 10in ( 2000+ ish)
The basics: there is no kit for a Solid Axle Swap (SAS) but it involves replacing the front IFS with solid axle and grafting in suspension (usual leaf or coil springs) and steering. fabrication skills are necessary but the result is amazing, you basically build the truck to what you want. almost any tire size will fit it just depends on how it is built, 35 to 40 inch tires are the trend.
The result:
these are the main options for our rangers this is just to let you know what is available and each lift has its own pros and cons that if search can be answered for you. hope somebody finds this useful, and if any one has anything to add or edit or comment let me know, im no expert but was tired of 10 thousand posts on the same topic. ( as many others are ) oh and to the powers that be can we make this a sticky?
#143
#144
Stock height '06 Ranger FX4
I am looking to put a beefier tire on my ranger that I just got. I am looking at putting 265/70/R16 Cooper Discoverer ATP tires on it. I believe these tires about a 31.5" tire. I will be mounting them on a 16" Fuel Anza rim with a -18mm offset. I am wondering if I will have any issues with them rubbing any where?
Thanks
Thanks
Last edited by RangerRyan84; 02-02-2018 at 10:42 AM. Reason: Forgot somethings
#145
I am looking to put a beefier tire on my ranger that I just got. I am looking at putting 265/70/R16 Cooper Discoverer ATP tires on it. I believe these tires about a 31.5" tire. I will be mounting them on a 16" Fuel Anza rim with a -18mm offset. I am wondering if I will have any issues with them rubbing any where?
Thanks
Thanks
#146
hey guys i'm new here. just bought a 2003 ford ranger xlt 4x4 4.0. I'm wanting to do a suspension lift but don't know what kind or where to look. I don't want to break the bank. But just want to know what I need to get better results when i'm off roading. so something smooth and a little more clearance. Thanks for the help.
#147
Superlift questions
I'm new to ranger forums and have been looking to upgrade my truck. I bought a black '02 4x4 off road edition 4.0L stepside ford ranger about 2 years ago as my first car, and ive been driving it for about 2 years now. I love the truck so much, and wanna make it look even better than it already does, but i have a number of questions to ask about lift kits before i purchase and put a kit on my truck. I've been looking at the super lift 4-in. lift kit with suspension for 00-10 for ranger for a while now and i just need a few questions answered about this kit before i commit.
1.) Is cutting required? As in will i need to cut pieces of the frame out in order to get the kit on? (i know that the rough country 6-in kit requires cutting and im a little weary as to my ability to do that correctly)
2.) Do i need an air impact driver? If so, i dont have one of those or an air tank big enough to support one of them, so it would completely eliminate any DIY intentions that i have.
3.) is it desirable? Is the suspension a good quality or not? Will it last or sag? Ive met people that swear by rough counrty, and others who say its the worst thing on earth.
Thank you to any responses and/or readers.
1.) Is cutting required? As in will i need to cut pieces of the frame out in order to get the kit on? (i know that the rough country 6-in kit requires cutting and im a little weary as to my ability to do that correctly)
2.) Do i need an air impact driver? If so, i dont have one of those or an air tank big enough to support one of them, so it would completely eliminate any DIY intentions that i have.
3.) is it desirable? Is the suspension a good quality or not? Will it last or sag? Ive met people that swear by rough counrty, and others who say its the worst thing on earth.
Thank you to any responses and/or readers.
#148
Trying to find coil over convert brackets!!
I'm new to ranger forums and have been looking to upgrade my truck. I bought a black '02 4x4 off road edition 4.0L stepside ford ranger about 2 years ago as my first car, and ive been driving it for about 2 years now. I love the truck so much, and wanna make it look even better than it already does, but i have a number of questions to ask about lift kits before i purchase and put a kit on my truck. I've been looking at the super lift 4-in. lift kit with suspension for 00-10 for ranger for a while now and i just need a few questions answered about this kit before i commit.
1.) Is cutting required? As in will i need to cut pieces of the frame out in order to get the kit on? (i know that the rough country 6-in kit requires cutting and im a little weary as to my ability to do that correctly)
2.) Do i need an air impact driver? If so, i dont have one of those or an air tank big enough to support one of them, so it would completely eliminate any DIY intentions that i have.
3.) is it desirable? Is the suspension a good quality or not? Will it last or sag? Ive met people that swear by rough counrty, and others who say its the worst thing on earth.
Thank you to any responses and/or readers.
1.) Is cutting required? As in will i need to cut pieces of the frame out in order to get the kit on? (i know that the rough country 6-in kit requires cutting and im a little weary as to my ability to do that correctly)
2.) Do i need an air impact driver? If so, i dont have one of those or an air tank big enough to support one of them, so it would completely eliminate any DIY intentions that i have.
3.) is it desirable? Is the suspension a good quality or not? Will it last or sag? Ive met people that swear by rough counrty, and others who say its the worst thing on earth.
Thank you to any responses and/or readers.
im also new here. Trying to covert the front to coil overs. But i cant find the brackets
#149
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post