Suspension Tech General discussion of suspension for the Ford Ranger.

Cheap Lift?

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Old Oct 1, 2007
  #1  
mx2007's Avatar
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Cheap Lift?

Hi i was wondering if there is a way to super cheaply lift my bone stock 05 ranger xlt 2WD about 2 inches?
 
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Old Oct 1, 2007
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what do you consider super cheap?
 
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Old Oct 1, 2007
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cheap as possible.i guss?
 
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Old Oct 1, 2007
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http://sporttrucksuspension.com/RANGERLIFT.HTM

Give these guys a call.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2007
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ok cool thanks alot!
 
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Old Oct 15, 2007
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Has anybody tried the "kit" with the spindles and the blocks? The 3 and 2 inch one? If I were to get that, how would the brake line and steering linkage be? I know the IFS don't flex much if at all, so I'm thinking my brake lines would be okay. What about driveshaft length and pinion angle? (I think that is what its called)
 
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Old Oct 15, 2007
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I believe that kit is for both the FRONT and the REAR..

i.e. the blocks would be for the rear, and the spindles for the front
 
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Old Oct 15, 2007
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Wait, none of that stuff will work on my truck, well except the blocks. But blocks are everywhere...
 
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Old Oct 15, 2007
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Originally Posted by BB2
Wait, none of that stuff will work on my truck, well except the blocks. But blocks are everywhere...
yea you have 4x4...cheapest you could go would be a body lift...other than that it gets pricey...
 
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Old Oct 15, 2007
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Originally Posted by mx2007
Hi i was wondering if there is a way to super cheaply lift my bone stock 05 ranger xlt 2WD about 2 inches?
my truck was the exact same as yours except an 04 here it is with spindles up front, shackles and AAL in back:
Name:  Tahoe046.jpg
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Old Oct 15, 2007
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Yeah, thats what I've figured out. A body lift would suck because of my exhaust, I could deal with the hitch but my exhaust exits out the side... I could do the hitch mod then have someone run me some pipes out the back with bends to compensate for the lift. Idk what I want to do. I'm running 33 12.5 15s on my stock 2000 4x4 and only rubs in reverse at full lock to the right, not to the left... (scratches head) But I think if I go off road at all, it'll rub pretty good.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2007
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BB2....cheapest lift, t-bar crank,blocks,longer U-bolts
 
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Old Oct 15, 2007
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Originally Posted by BB2
Yeah, thats what I've figured out. A body lift would suck because of my exhaust, I could deal with the hitch but my exhaust exits out the side... I could do the hitch mod then have someone run me some pipes out the back with bends to compensate for the lift. Idk what I want to do. I'm running 33 12.5 15s on my stock 2000 4x4 and only rubs in reverse at full lock to the right, not to the left... (scratches head) But I think if I go off road at all, it'll rub pretty good.
mine did the same, only at full lock reversing right...

save up for a suspension lift...
 
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Old Oct 15, 2007
  #14  
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Well, the tbar crank would make it ride like $hit and it would knock it all out of alignment. I'm not sure if I like the idea behind it. The rear is easy. I would like to save up for a real lift, but being in college and only working on the weekends, it makes it kinda hard. Maybe I should just let it go for a few years until I'm outta college. But it would be sweet to be lifted...
 
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Old Oct 15, 2007
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speaking of cheap...what brands are ones to stay away from???
 
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Old Oct 31, 2007
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If you do a t-bar crank, just plan on not having 4wheel drive. It will brake at that extreme of an angle. Also if you lift over 4" in the back you will have to have a driveshaft made or a driveshaft spacer, thats if you don't want to keep replacing your transmision.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2007
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From: silver creek, ga.
Do a body lift:
$200+ 3"pa body lift
$500+ prof. installed
or
$20 pizza, $20 beer (of your choice) and some friends
a weekend later = a ranger sitting three inches higher
cheers up
 
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Old Oct 31, 2007
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Originally Posted by mdills
If you do a t-bar crank, just plan on not having 4wheel drive. It will brake at that extreme of an angle. Also if you lift over 4" in the back you will have to have a driveshaft made or a driveshaft spacer, thats if you don't want to keep replacing your transmision.
he is 2wd with coils....and many people here have wheeled with cranked t-bars...
 
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Old Oct 31, 2007
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Originally Posted by mdills
Also if you lift over 4" in the back you will have to have a driveshaft made or a driveshaft spacer, thats if you don't want to keep replacing your transmision.

Are you on crack?
 
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Old Nov 5, 2007
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From: silver creek, ga.
Icon10

my bad, I didn't know he has 2wd with coils. I never sayed that it would fail with a t-bar crank, I just said it will break or fail at that extreme of an angle. As far as the drive shaft, looks like to me your only sitting with a 3" pu$$y body lift. You wouldn't know. I forgive you though, I guess when you live in a spanish speaking town and you only know english, then you wouldn't comprende' wtf is going on, amigo.
 
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