OK guys, first off, I tried searching, but I am still left with tons of questions.

Here is my current setup:

2004 Mazda B4000 off road package (has raised suspension from the factory)
4.0 SOHC
Manual
1.5" Torsion bar crank on the front to level it
Flowmaster series 40, dual pipes out the back
K&N Drop in air filter
Westin Safari Bar w/ two PIAA 540 lights
265 75R 16 Tires

I can give more detail if necessary.

I am a mechanicle idiot, I am great with computers and technology, and work in the nuclear industry, and am bright enough to figure **** out, but I am looking for your help, because clearly most of you are exceptional when it comes to modding your trucks. Everything I have done so far was because I read it here first.

I am looking to go with a 3-4 inch suspension lift, but I have not been able to find anything that said it would work on a Mazda. Can you guys recomend a setup, and tell me some options that will work with my rig?

I do some light offroading if that matters, but mostly the lift will be for looks. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Ok bud, You are 4wd i'm taking it due to the offroad package by mazda correct? If you are looking for just looks, You have two optioins. You can get the Superlift Suspension lift which is completely bolt on with minimal to no welding required. They also offer a skid plate and a driveshaft extension which you will need to stop you from having troubles down the road.

"The newest Ranger is basically a smaller version of the new F-150; both have torsion bars and upper / lower control arms. Like our F-150 lift, the cast nodular iron knuckles are the system's key. Ride Quality & Lift Height One key difference with the mid-size Ford, however, is the odd tulip-style driveshaft used for the front differential. We have found that these driveshafts wear rapidly after the vehicle is lifted and cause vibration over time. Expect the OE front driveshaft to last no more than 20,000 miles after the vehicle is lifted. Therefore, Superlift offers a heavy-duty replacement front driveshaft that incorporates a standard CV joint at the transfer case for improved durability and longevity."
Kit - $1458.51
Front Driveshaft - $390.06
Front skidplate - $129.95
http://www.4wheelerssupply.com/catal...ducts_id/70700

You also have another option.
This is the kit by RCD.
The RCD Kit requires some welding but is not extreme. This kit will provide with you approx 5-6" of suspension lift and IMO is the best looking suspension lift for just a lift on the 4wd Rangers / mazdas.
"A Race Car Dynamics (RCD) Suspension System for your Ford Ranger 2WD or 4WD is bred from a heritage of competition, off road design and manufacturing. Race Car Dynamics (RCD) manufactures the most technically advanced suspension system available today for your Ford Ranger 2WD or 4WD. At Race Car Dynamics (RCD) Suspension, they don't just build lift kits for your Ford Ranger 2WD or 4WD, Race Car Dynamics (RCD) Suspension focuses on building the finest suspension system available for your Ford Ranger 2WD or 4WD. Don't just lift your truck, take a systems approach and find out why Race Car Dynamics (RCD) Suspension manufactures the highest quality, best handling suspension systems for your Ford Ranger 2WD or 4WD.

Finish off your Ford Ranger 2WD or 4WD suspension system with top quality accessories from Race Car Dynamics (RCD) Suspension. Add an Race Car Dynamics (RCD) Suspension lightbar, skid plate or Trac-Link traction arm to your Ford Ranger 2WD or 4WD. The Race Car Dynamics (RCD) Suspension lightbar is available in stainless steel or black powder coat while a skid plate is offered in stainless steel or brushed aluminum. Trac-Link traction arms are available in black powder coat or stainless steel."
Kit - $2,309.95

There is only one problem that you will have to take care of and that is the Hubs. You will have to switch to a smaller rotor / hub due to the fact this supension kit is only made up to 02 when Ford / mazda Switched hubs.

http://www.ssd4u.com/streetsmart_070.htm
Hope that was helpful and goodluck with the lift

 

Thanks, it is a 4x4, I forgot to mention that. Is it safe to assume that any lift for a 4x4 2004 Ranger will fit my 4x4 2004 B4000?

 

What would you do if you were looking for excellent off-road performance as well? I really appreciate all the time you took to answer my first question.

 

Yea if i'm not mistaken the only difference seems to be cosmetic. I mean hell, A guy here did a Mazda - Ranger Conversion.... I know every spindle for a ranger will fit a mazda so there shouldn't be a problem. If your looking for EXCELLENT offroad performance, Um i'd have to say that either one of these kits is going to bounce ya around a little bit, But the good thing about the RCD kit is this. And this is why it will be the best bet. You are going to be removing your torsion bars and installing a coilover shock setup. Now with the coilover shock setup you can actually set the valving on them much like a prerunner to how stiff you want, or how droopy you want. If valved right that RCD kit will handle just about any kind of trail beating you give to it. With the acception of jumping and stuff.

 

Excellent, the prices aren't as bad as I thought they would be!

 

Nope, AND if your looking for fiberglass fenders, Check out http://www.race-dezert.com or http://www.dezertrangers.com In the classified sectioins there is always glass fenders for that style truck from between 200-300$

 

Yeah, the coilover will def be alot smoother than the damn t-bars. That is the worst suspension Idea to ever come about. May FORD will go solid axle and coilspring on all the trucks one day...

 

actually, Torsion bar setup was one of the better ideas ford had.

 

Torsion bar suspension is actually a very good and viable suspension set-up. And honestly, the ride quality was great in my truck. It's even better in the Level II.

The superlift is a great kit. It's affordable, looks fantastic, and is quite capable off-road. The driveshaft is a bit pricey, but you can get that later on down the line. I had my Superlift kit on for close to 10,000 miles and no trouble with the stock driveshaft. It also requires NO welding (not 'minimal like Cass said). The installation is pretty easy really if you have a decent understanding of your truck's suspension. If you're thinking about the Superlift feel free to shoot me a PM or IM I'll be more than happy to help ya out and answer any more specific questions.

 

hey man i have a noob question, where do you crank the bars? it's underneath the truck, right? not in the front part? sorry im not used to working on my truck, yet. im only used to working on my baja bug.

 

The adjuster bolts are underneath the middle of the cab give or take. Follow the torsion bars out from the a-arms towards the back of the truck and you will find them easily.

 

so i cranked them in ( righty tighty, correct? ) yesterday 2 turns on the bolts and i saw no difference. also the bolt on the passanger side is sticking out a whole hell of alot more than the drivers side. i turned them in the same amount though so they still look really uneven. but the trucks height is the same on both sides. is that okay for them to be so uneven or is something wrong. and i didn't get any difference in my truck height after. is that because i only cranked them 2 turns. are you supposed to go more then that? i have the good t bars, well the best ones anyways. the #1s, the ride didn't change either.

 

Yes it's ok for the bolts to stick out unevenly. If you actually take out the torsion bars, one of the bars is longer than the other also.

How did you measure whether you gained anything or not? Use a tape measure and measure from the ground to the top of the fender or from the center of the wheel to the top of the fender. And you will probably need more than 2 turns to make a difference also.

 

i measured from the fender to the center of the wheel, and no diff. but you say i may need more turns? when you guys say you cranked the t-bars 1.5, you mean inches not turns? im all confused. sorry thats what living in vegas does to ya.

 

Yeah usually to get the full 1.5-2" you'll need to turn the driver's side until it is nearly maxed out (DO NOT max it out!) and turn the passenger side enough to even it out. the passenger side will stick out about 1/4-1/2" I think.

 

1/2"

 

I have a 2010 ranger fx4 4.0. I have Benin researching, and super lift has told me their lift won't work in my truck because I have traction control. Has any one found a fix for this. Maybe a chip replacement. I have been told, pulling the abs fuse won't work.

 

Wow.. this thread is almost 10 years old, has to be one of the oldest thread bumps I've ever seen.

Anyway.. why is superlift saying it won't work? Is the traction control built into the factory knuckle?

Only other option is a 3" body lift. Lots of people run them, they work fine, allow you to run bigger tires if that's what you're looking for. I've had mine on for 5 years and no issues at all to speak of.

 

I'm looking for a decent increase in frame clearance, and a body lift may be a later step I chose to get 35's under it. So I want the suspension lift. Super lift claims the traction control shuts the power down continuously. I feel like try are covering their rears, or trying to sell me a new superchip

 

It doesn't make any sense at all

 

If superlift says it won't fit, I wouldnt try to get it anyways. I have heard of problems with lifting newer Rangers. The "stabilitrac" makes it nearly impossible.

 

An update on information I have found out. Stability control tcs and abs will be disabled with the removal of the abs fuse. Which is the cheap easy fix. Or a chip programmer can be purchased for $300-$400 dollars. The assists can be programmed out and there will be no problem. Already dropping a few grand. What's a few hundred more, right?

 

That's how it is when it comes to modding vehicles, lol.