i tightened my torsions bar
Originally Posted by exjnv
Originally Posted by SONICEDGE03
Are you going to get it aligned or not?
About $50 to get aligned, but if you don't, you'll wear your tires and probably they will become noiser. One pair of my tires, when on the front, is noiser than the others because I ran them about 6000 miles after cranking before a wheel alignment. I'd do it.
Originally Posted by DownSouthTAS
I never aligned mine and have put 30k miles on the tires I have with no adverse wear. And you can tell its out of alignment. Just rotate them every oil change.
Sorry, but you gave bad advice. It doesn't pay take a chance just because yours LOOKS out of alignment and you believe it's not a problem. That's hardly and informed opinion and it's misleading.
My advice is still go get the alignment done. You're not driving the "other guys truck".
Originally Posted by n3elz
lol! 

If the guy's truck is pulling badly, he can get an alignment if he pleases. Personally, I don't care, so what's it to you?
Originally Posted by DownSouthTAS
Originally Posted by n3elz
lol! 

If the guy's truck is pulling badly, he can get an alignment if he pleases. Personally, I don't care, so what's it to you?
Did it ever occur to you that you're not NOTICING the uneven wear because you're on an aggressive tire-rotation schedule?
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just adjusting the pre-load on the torsion bars "shouldn't" knock the alignment out, this is if you do it right and make sure the truck is exactley the same height on both sides, i adjusted mine and put it right on the alignment rack, the toe and camber were right in specs, the caster was a TINY bit off. not enough to hurt anything, just made it harder to turn the wheel.
some places (Firestone) give lifetime alignments for $125
worth it if you do aggressive off-roading or plan on lifting your truck
here is a an excellent link that fully explains why you need to have an alignment after changing the relative height of your chassis in relation to your suspension
whether you put in a spindle lift or just crank up the t-bars you really need to have your front end adjusted
worth it if you do aggressive off-roading or plan on lifting your truck
here is a an excellent link that fully explains why you need to have an alignment after changing the relative height of your chassis in relation to your suspension
whether you put in a spindle lift or just crank up the t-bars you really need to have your front end adjusted
Originally Posted by DownSouthTAS
Originally Posted by n3elz
lol! 

If the guy's truck is pulling badly, he can get an alignment if he pleases. Personally, I don't care, so what's it to you?
You never did answer my question about how you "know" your truck is out of alignment. You said you can "tell" it is. I wish it were that simple and if you think it is you truly DON'T know enough to make an informed contribution -- AGAIN THIS IS IN MY OPINION before you go off again!
But the point is: you are giving someone advice that almost any informed person KNOWS is bad because you haven't seen his truck or conditions. To somehow think he WON'T wear his tires because yours haven't worn is bad science AT THE LEAST. I won't say what the worst might be, lol! :)
I had the opposite. I did the tweak and ended up with slightly cupped tires. I wish I'd done the alignment IMMEDIATELY.
On the other hand, it should be possible to be OUT of alignment and have the tweak put it back in.
Dave, how much "preload" did you add, measured in ride height? My guess would be 1" or less. We had bunches of people that did about an inch say when they went in for alignment it was not a problem.
Contrariwise (sic), we had folks who dialed it up to 2" or so who had big misalignments. It's very dependent on how good you alignment was to begin with, I do believe.
On the other hand, it should be possible to be OUT of alignment and have the tweak put it back in.
Dave, how much "preload" did you add, measured in ride height? My guess would be 1" or less. We had bunches of people that did about an inch say when they went in for alignment it was not a problem.
Contrariwise (sic), we had folks who dialed it up to 2" or so who had big misalignments. It's very dependent on how good you alignment was to begin with, I do believe.
I guess the question then is whether you adjusted the bars to compensate for sag or to actually change the height of the truck. If you adjust the preload to compensate for the SAG, then in theory you would be bringing the suspension back to where it was when the truck rolled off the assembly line which *should* be in alignment. In theory, if the suspension is in the exact same position as the last time it was aligned (on the assembly line) then the likelihood of having adverse tire wear from the adjustment is minimal. If you have adjusted your preload such that the suspension is in a different position than it was last time it was aligned, then it *should* be realigned or you *may* experience excessive tire wear.
In any case, the relatively low cost of an alignment to correct a potential problem as well as any other alignment issues that may have arisen since your last alignment will certainly be much less than the cost of one new tire.
In any case, the relatively low cost of an alignment to correct a potential problem as well as any other alignment issues that may have arisen since your last alignment will certainly be much less than the cost of one new tire.
I have larger tires, though they are the same width (and model) as the stockers on the same rim. I don't remember how much it went up, but the truck is not level. I still have at least and inch difference between the front and rear, but at the same time the front is higher than it was stock.



