Hey everyone, I've got to replace my front wheel bearings (inner & outer). I was wondering how hard it is to do this. And any help on as how to do it would be awesome! I already have all the bearings & stuff, just need a little info on putting them on! THANKS!!!

Brenton

 

Alright. It's cake. I'll walk you through it. I do it everyday so I'm reliable I promise.

1. Jack the front up and remove the front wheels. It's easiest if you leave the steering wheel unlocked so you can turn the wheels.
2. Remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts from behind. They are an 18 or 19 mm bolts I believe. They will probably be tight since they have a sealer on them from the factory. If you do this you won't have to take the caliper off of the bracket and it saves a few minutes.
3. Remove the dustcap from the center of the rotor. There is a special tool for it that nobody has. Personally I just use a hammer and hit down on one side of it with a small chisel or screwdriver and once you get one side of it up you'll be able to pry it off.
4. Take a pair of dikes and remove the cotter pins. Pull the castle nut off and then take a pair of decent sized pliers and unscrew the nut. The outer wheel bearing and the washer will then come off.
5. Take the nut and put it back on the end of the spindle. Your rotor will be laying there on the spindle. If you pull the rotor off you'll feel it catch the nut. Yank on the rotor then twist it and yank it again. Twist and yank until the inner bearing and dust seal come off. You might not know what I'm talking about but once you get this far you'll figure it out.
6. Clean the old grease off the spindle and pack the new bearings good.
7. Put the inner wheel bearing inside the rotor and put the dust seal on it and take a hammer and work your way around it and hammer it back on straight.
8. Put a nice layer of grease on the spindle and put the rotor/inner bearing on. Now take the outer bearing and the washer and put them back on inside the rotor. Take the nut and put it back on so it all holds in place.
9. Take pliers (not a socket) and tighten the nut until it's snug. If it's too loose you'll feel the rotor wobbling and if it's too tight the rotor will bind. Pliers make it almost idiotproof so you can't overtighten it.
10. Put the castle nut and a new cotter pin in. Hammer the dust cap back on until the lip is flush all the way around.
11. Slide the caliper bracket/caliper back on the rotor. Tighten the 2 bolts on it nice and tight (80 lb/ft or so).
12. Reinstall the wheel and pull up and down/side to side on the wheel to make sure it's nice and tight. Repeat on the other side. Just don't forget even if you didn't move the brake pads pump your brakes first.

It's really, really easy. I'd say 2 hours tops if it's your first time.

=john=

 

not doubting you on this that sounds about right, but i know on the 4wd trucks i've done when you start tightening down the nuts your supposed to rotate the rotor at the same time to allow the bearings to seat in the races, then back the nut off and torque it... i though it would be the same regardless of 2 or 4wd...... that's the only thing that caught my eye that MIGHT be wrong, 2wd could b different.....

only thing i suggest, it makes things workin easier.. by some latex gloves, that way when you need clean hands for something pull the gloves off, and you don't have to kill time wiping grease off your hands....

 

Agreed on the rotation to make sure everything seats well. Good procedure otherwise.

I use the blue nitrile gloves rather than latex -- they are tougher and don't make my hands sweat and itch as much. But maybe I'm just more sensitive to the latex.

 

I think you forgot to explain how to remove the outer bearing race from the rotor. You should be able to tap it out from the inside using a screwdriver or something long and a hammer. Reinstall just like the inner bearing race.

 

I have yet to do this dagum project yet... lol

I've got the bearings, but haven't had time to do it yet!

Brenton

 

Brenton is your truck 4WD?

 

uh uh, hes a 2 wheely like us!!

I did mine right before i went to RH Brenton, if ya need more of a walk through let us know.

I also did the rotate and tighten method. My dad informed me of this as i was finishing up with the first side.

And gloves? who needs gloves? its only grease!!!

 

Does anyone have pics or a microfiche to look at on this project? I recently replaced my left side bearings and the wheel is wobbling slightly. I have only driven it down the road a couple hundred feet. I took it apart 2 months ago and just now put back together. Maybe I put the parts on wrong.....I couldn't remember exactly how the washers went back on..........mine does not have castle nuts or cotter pins, but rather a spindle lock nut. It is a 1996 4WD. Thanks!

 

holy old post man..

he doesnt even have the same suspension set up anymore..i dunno if he even got it done....blahhhhhh

 

Yea, I don't have the same suspension anymore, but I did get it done. Remember Evan that was when you were down last year for New Years & we were working on my truck. I think that's when it was. When we shot Nate w. the roman candles.

Brenton

 

haha BIG NATE..oh yea i guess i was there..dern i even helped

 

So does anyone know which specifcally work with a 2001 Ford Ranger 2.3L rwd?

I am here:
2001 FORD RANGER Wheel Bearing

But as far as inner and outer. The Timken have all different sizes... NO clue which to get?

Any help would greatly be apprecaited!

Thanks,
-Nigel