James Duff Long Link Traction Bars
I think that if you double up the attachment point at the spring (just like Bob did) you will have the perfect set up
to me that was the only weak link and I thought it would bend since all the force is canting it to one side
putting a bracket on each side of the spring perch evens out the load
for an off road truck it is really just about stopping axle wrap when applying high torque as in going up hills
you do not want to limit your travel and I think the long link model will do that more than the original version
factory Rangers just do not put that much power to the ground at the rear wheels and the built up long bars seem over kill for 207HP & 238 pounds of torque
besides JD said they will not fit the larger axle
to me that was the only weak link and I thought it would bend since all the force is canting it to one side
putting a bracket on each side of the spring perch evens out the load
for an off road truck it is really just about stopping axle wrap when applying high torque as in going up hills
you do not want to limit your travel and I think the long link model will do that more than the original version
factory Rangers just do not put that much power to the ground at the rear wheels and the built up long bars seem over kill for 207HP & 238 pounds of torque
besides JD said they will not fit the larger axle
Originally Posted by LILBLUE04FX4L2
I think that if you double up the attachment point at the spring (just like Bob did) you will have the perfect set up
to me that was the only weak link and I thought it would bend since all the force is canting it to one side
putting a bracket on each side of the spring perch evens out the load
for an off road truck it is really just about stopping axle wrap when applying high torque as in going up hills
you do not want to limit your travel and I think the long link model will do that more than the original version
factory Rangers just do not put that much power to the ground at the rear wheels and the built up long bars seem over kill for 207HP & 238 pounds of torque
besides JD said they will not fit the larger axle
to me that was the only weak link and I thought it would bend since all the force is canting it to one side
putting a bracket on each side of the spring perch evens out the load
for an off road truck it is really just about stopping axle wrap when applying high torque as in going up hills
you do not want to limit your travel and I think the long link model will do that more than the original version
factory Rangers just do not put that much power to the ground at the rear wheels and the built up long bars seem over kill for 207HP & 238 pounds of torque
besides JD said they will not fit the larger axle
no problem Bill
here is the cavet they sent me the next day
Neil,
You do have to elongate the holes in the top plate to accommodate for the wider width of the axle and u-bolts. There is also a Tech write up on a Ranger forum about how to make these work. I am attaching a link to this write up to help you get a over view of the install. Hope this helps, and please let me know if there is anything else that I can assist you with. http://generation-edge.com/forums/to...?TOPIC_ID=3613
--
Thank You for your interest in James Duff Enterprises. We look forward to doing business with you.
Sincerely,
Scottie
Sr. Technical Support Specialist
JAMES DUFF ENTERPRISES, INC.
James Duff Enterprises Inc. 261340 Hwy 101 Sequim Washington 98382
http://www.jamesduff.com 360.683.2160 m-f 8-5 fax 360.683.0159
Specialists in 66-77 Bronco 84-90 Bronco II 83-97 Ranger & 91-94 Explorer
here is the cavet they sent me the next day
Neil,
You do have to elongate the holes in the top plate to accommodate for the wider width of the axle and u-bolts. There is also a Tech write up on a Ranger forum about how to make these work. I am attaching a link to this write up to help you get a over view of the install. Hope this helps, and please let me know if there is anything else that I can assist you with. http://generation-edge.com/forums/to...?TOPIC_ID=3613
--
Thank You for your interest in James Duff Enterprises. We look forward to doing business with you.
Sincerely,
Scottie
Sr. Technical Support Specialist
JAMES DUFF ENTERPRISES, INC.
James Duff Enterprises Inc. 261340 Hwy 101 Sequim Washington 98382
http://www.jamesduff.com 360.683.2160 m-f 8-5 fax 360.683.0159
Specialists in 66-77 Bronco 84-90 Bronco II 83-97 Ranger & 91-94 Explorer
not to hijack ur thread bill.. but i was wondering the same thing.. are u guys talking about the traction bars that go above the springs instead of under? im lookin in to those also... im running a little different setup as bill.. aal's,4in blocks with 35's and i need them bad..BTW.. bill whats the measurement from the ground to the bottom of ur door.. just curious on ur measurements.. truck looks awsome
Ok, I am going to order the classics next paycheck, maybe I wont last that long haha. I am going to see if they can send me the extra brackets as well to better support the rear mounting location.
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Originally Posted by LILBLUE04FX4L2
I was talking to JD right after the last Centralia trip
according to D my axles were displaying a lot of wrap
for whatever reason JD are stuck on the older models - I guess they have a large enough base to keep busy and profitable
according to D my axles were displaying a lot of wrap
for whatever reason JD are stuck on the older models - I guess they have a large enough base to keep busy and profitable
.I believe Mr. Griggs still uses his JD bars. They should work fine for most offroading apps. They are mounted over the spring and give better clearence then the ones like I use ( under teh leaf ) . They both perform the same function of keeping the axle neutral from twisting and loading the springs.
I believe the JD bars will work fine on a 4x4 with a suspension lift. The angle in which the bar points will be a bit different, but the bushings up front will take the newer/deflected angle of mounting. The bushings themselves might wear more quickly as teh load on them wont be as even as a normally setup suspension, but poly/euro-based bushings are cheap ( like 2$/set ) .
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