lift for 01 ranger...
 

ok, ive searched and searched and came up with some answers but i didnt wanna bring back a 2 yrold thread. but here goes.

ive got a stock 01 excab 4x4offroad ranger. i wanna lift it and am stumped on some things. i wanna get a body lift bc that all i can afford right now since i wanna get wheels and tires at the same time. i wanna get 15 or 16" wheels with 33/12.50 maxxis bighorns. ik the BL should fit them but id like to level up my truck bc i hate the rake. i talked to a local shop about keys and cranking the tbars. he said that crankin can be bad and that keys are the way to go. on here all you guys tell everyone to steer clear of keys and to get #1 tbars. so thats the first thing im stumped on. where do you get them and how do you know if you have them or not?

second is i read about the beltech drop shackles. if they are drop shackles how do they lift the truck? will it work w/ my stock rear blocks? what size lift will it give me and will it still have a rake w/ #1 bars and a crank?

i eventually wanna get a superlift 3-4" lift. i read on their site that the rear is lifted up w/ blocks. do you remove the stock blocks and put the superlift blocks in place of the old ones or stack them? local shop said not to "stack" rear blocks bc its a problem waiting to happen. what i was thinkn was to keep the stock block and just get AALs for the rest of the height.

any ideas and input would be great. im a noob in the lifting part of the rangers given that there are few and far between on lift options. which makes no sense these trucks being the most popular midsize truck.

Cranking the bars has the same effect as keys. The shackles raise the truck by lowering the mounting point of the leaf springs. They are "drop" shackles because they are meant to lower full-size Chevys. The shackles on the Chevys are reversed from our trucks, so it lifts a Ranger. If you are trying to level the truck out, just crank the bars. If you get shackles, the truck won't be level because you are raising the rear as well as the front.

for my superlift in the back i used the super lift block with an aal and shackle and didnt use the stock block. sits perfectly level.

thank god you search first lol... thanks... i am gonna break up your post so its easier to answer...





Sounds good READ THIS will help you alot...


https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=83805





33's fit great with just a body lift. go with 15x8 or 15x10 cheaper to get tires.

here tire size chart for ya...





here my truck with Class 1 bars and body lift and 33x12.5x15 on 15x8



Attachment 163615




Shop guy is a moron, Keys do the same thing as cranking the T-bolt in more same effect it rotates the bar to raise the truck waste of time and money. if your bars are sagged out get some class 1 bars here part #'s





there drop shackles on a full size chevy because the shackle goes UP instead of down like our trucks so when you install on ours it makes the shackle longer and brings the leaf down more. yes it will work with stock blocks but you will get more of a rake then before.



NEVER stack but yes superlift kit is stacked blocks what you do is throw away the superlift block and you order a Shackle and an AAL and leave the stock block in place here is a superlift/body lift and shackle/AAL in the rear for reference on 35's




http://www.zeebone.com/gallery/d/39942-1/DSCF3692.JPG

You can always go with a BL and slight torsion crank with 35's


Attachment 163612

wow zach you kept the stock block and aal and shackle? i tried that and it sagged like a mofo. i had to put the 4" SL block in there to even make it level...

thanks guys, that was quick. and zach, i have basically the same truck as you, just a year newer w/ the newer front end. which means the parts are the same, right? how do ik if i have the #1s? i dont think i do but id hate to spend the $$$ and then find out i had them all along.

so on the AAL, which brand and what size? i cant afford to do the SL and such to fit 35s but when i do i should be set, i have 4.10 gears so would it be hard to turn 35s. seein that most 35s are actually 34.5s.

on the wheel choices im down to 3 styles in 15s OR 16s. the procomp 1079s polished, a procomp steel rim, or the MT classic 2s. i thought about doing what u suggested and get 15s since tires are cheaper. i thought that 15s would look small but yours look great. most ppl run oversized wheels w/ lowpro 33"+ mud/ats around here. would look good for street but be stupid if you actually took the truck offroad and use it for what it was made for, not to look all pretty...

how well do rangers turn 35s? i was gonna get a 1500 chevy and was on a chevy forum and they all said if you get 35s you need to get new gears and all that stuff. i find it hard to believe that you would need to do that to a fullsize v8 truck when some of you guys are running 35s w/ few mods other than lifts to fit them. but im glad i changed my mind, i love my ranger. lol. but i do wish ford wouldve done like dodge and put the small v8 in em. dont rele wanna mess w/ the exploder 5.0 swap.

almost forgot, what offset on the wheels? i kinna want the tires to stick out a lil bit. dont know much about backspacing and offset. IMO i think wheel/tire specs are the most complicated compared to other parts (besides the engine)

I can burn my 35's with my 4.0 and 4.10's easy, i even get better highway mpg with them.

If you want the wheels to stick out a little, get backspacing under 4. 3.75 or 3.5 would probably be ideal for you. On the sticker that is just inside the door jamb, there is a section with SPR. Under SPR should be something like 1k or BBKK. The first set of letter/numbers is the rating on your torsion bars, the second set is the rating on your leaf springs.

Last one pictured is bills truck not mine. yes he kept stock block and only used shackle and AAL


First picture i posted was mine last was bills both are the same Suspension as you.

door sticker under spring go look what is says


summit sells them procomp i think.. go search the site.

general rule of thumb if you have a 4.0L is 4.10 for 33's and 4.56 for 35's




go 15's its cheaper for everything. agree on larger rims and using the truck imo... plus i like more sidewall for a better ride...



4.0L with 4.56 it almost feels stock with 35's to be honest. you dont need a V8

problem with 35's and rangers is the front suspension your getting into the to big for everything stage. wheel bearings hate you, ball joints hate you.. tirrods hate you... 33's is the all around best size for ranger imo.. i keep wanting 35's and superlift but then talk myself out of it the 33's do everything i need them to do



see mine with the first pic its level pretty much with the flares. 15x8 with 3.75-3.25 will be fine. 15x10 will get out stuck out about .5-1.5" depending on backspacing

i have driven multiple truck with 35's and 4.10 personally i wouldnt want ever 4.10 and auto with 35's manual it works just fine... thats what bill ran and it worked out great

i have a 3.0L and 4.10s with 35s and mine does fine. yea i could change it to lower ratio but eh....im not worried about it

ha ha talk to trepaul, he said manual you have to get new gears run 35's then talk k

being i have first hand experience with the effects of the gear swaps it would be the first thing on my list its great how much power you get back. ignoring it isnt the best idea..

Well i know how great gear swaps make things also but try changing em in rangers front diff it isnt fun when i can burn em and tow and everything no prob

i agree, also it depends on what your truck came with stock for gears. say in my case, my truck came with 4:10's from the factory. its ideal to keep the stock final drive ratio so when i went to 33's i swapped in 4:56 gears to bring me back close to my stock final drive ratio. its easier on your drivetrain and also with an auto trans it keeps the shift points correct wich is crutial if youre not planning on runnung a tuner to calibrate your speedo. alot of things depend on having the correct wheel speed reading such as your trans (auto) your abs and also your speedo and odo will be off. i went to the BFG website and they have a gear ratio calculator that can help you figure out what gear ratio would be best with the size tire youre going to.

dont need to thats his opinion that black truck i posted was chipped 4.10 manual 35's superlift/body lift. Beard was chipped 4.56 superlift body lift with 35's and auto and he couldnt pull away from Bill...

front diff is simple it isnt hard to remove it

Time is needed though and i have little. LOL

yeah the front diff was easier for me. i pulled it out and threw it on the bench and set the gears. that was way easier than laying in the gound like i did in the back. lol

and the procrastinating truth comes out!! :cop:

thats what i mean lol just pull the damn diff its not that big of a deal lol, like compared to a D35 TTB i would highly work on a D35 SLA lol

yea i also dont have 350 bucks for gears right now, and i love my new mpg. Almost all my driving is highway

ok, im set on the wheel/tire size. now what about shocks? and on the rims, would you recc. steel or alum? i figured if i wanted to same money for now to get steel but they eventuall rust out so idno. lol. how will the lift affect my exhaust? i just have a muffler w/ turndown, no tailpipes yet.

this is the info on the sticker un the doorjam:

wb: 126
BRK: D
INT TR: ET
TP/PS: S/
R: K
Axle: 97
TR: D
SPR: 1K
1R31B
405

anymore input, and what tbars do i have? got the wheels/tires picked out. was gonna get procomp polished 1079s but the dealer cant get them bc he switched suppliers, so i went w/ the MT classic IIs. not sure to get 15x8s or 15x10s. salesman said he wasnt for sure if the 15x10s would fit w/ just a body lift, that there might be some slight rubbing. on the tires im goin with 33/12.50/15 maxxis bighorns. love the way they look and heard good things about them. would get high dollar name brand but i cant really afford it right now. but neways. heres the prices:

33/12.50/15 maxxis bighorns: $159.99 ea
MT classic IIs: 15x8- $139.99 ea
15x10- $159.99 ea
total w/ 15x8s mounted/balanced/installed/lugs: $1335.40 +tax (add $80 for 15x10s)

just ordered the summit body lift a few minutes ago for $119.90 after tax.
they are chargin $384 to install the bl (me and my dad would do it but dont have the time or patience. lol) since they was doin all of this i was gonna have em crank the tbars thinkn they wouldnt charge but like 10 bux since i was buyin a bunch from them but they want $50 bux just to crank the damn things! plus another 50 for allignment. ill just do the damn tbars myself before i take it in... but what do you guys think on the price?

15x10 fit its up to you never take advice from sales people there morons..


you have class 1 bars already just crank them

and you having a body lift installed wow big waste of time and money