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Suspension Tech General discussion of suspension for the Ford Ranger.

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  #26  
Old 11-26-2006
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Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
yea.....

there are severl items in the front end that could cause bad tire wear......let me list them for you that way you can check them out...

-ball joints: if they are bad they will allow your tire to have play in the and can cause them to look like one of these situtations /\ or \/....the top could be tilted in or out....

-tie rod ends: that will give play in the steering wheel....so there will be "slop" in it......meaning it takes more turns to complete and you can wiggle the steering wheel without turning the tires........

good front end parts, good shocks, and a good alignment and a TTB setup is a dream to drive...on or off road......

if i were you i would change out the ball joints and tie rod ends while you are working on the front end.............and if you do use GOOD parts(remember you get what you pay for) like Dana/Spicer parts and if you can't get them, get MOOG......and remember to get ball joints that are greasable....the factory ball joints are sealed so you can't grease them.......


ok well im definatly have /\ type wear lol its not extreme but the tires are gettin bald cuz of it, and as for the ball joints the bottom ones on mine are greasable...and as for the steering its all good there, so what can i do to make the TTB top notch? i plan on puttin a true locker in ther with manny hubs, and im sure u-joints could be replaced to, what do you think i cud do to get the best out of my TTB?
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  #27  
Old 11-26-2006
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you can upgrade the spindles to spindles off a F-150 since they have the same suspension....

here is a good page for tuning the TTB suspension...
http://www.therangerstation.com/Maga.../TTBTuning.htm

here is some things that would be good to look at for upgrading to Dana 44 TTB parts...
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...th44parts.html

here is a Dana 35 TTB u-joint upgrade...
http://www.therangerstation.com/Maga...t_snapring.htm

here is info for a longer shock on the front....
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...shocktower.htm

here is some of the strong points and weak points of a Dana 35(scroll down a bit) and some upgrades to it....
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...ont_Axles.html

i would put in a locker and some manual hubs......then i would replace ALL my ball joints with MOOG lifetime parts......then take it to someplace that will give you a good alignment......make them align it with you in the drivers seat because if they dont it will be out of alignment with you behind the wheel.....
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  #28  
Old 11-26-2006
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also to check to see if your ball joints are good or bad......with the tire on grab the top and the bottom at the same time........try to pick up on the bottom of the tire....if it has any movement in and out then your ball joints need replacing......

also make sure your tie rod end grease boots are not busted....if they are busted, then they are not holding grease.....

remember to install your drop pitman arm with the lift kit or your steering will be horrible....

also change out your wheel bearings......there are 2 on both sides......change the bearings and the outer races at the same time! bigger tires are wheel bearing killers....when you change them out, get Timken bearings....they are the best...

get yourself a steering stabilizer from Skyjacker....they make a dual stabilizer that is nice.......

if you have the $450 to spend, i would recommend the Superlift SuperRunner steering setup.........that is a picture of the SuperRunner setup.......

if you have any more questions, feel free to ask...
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  #29  
Old 11-26-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
you can upgrade the spindles to spindles off a F-150 since they have the same suspension....

here is a good page for tuning the TTB suspension...
http://www.therangerstation.com/Maga.../TTBTuning.htm

here is some things that would be good to look at for upgrading to Dana 44 TTB parts...
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...th44parts.html

here is a Dana 35 TTB u-joint upgrade...
http://www.therangerstation.com/Maga...t_snapring.htm

here is info for a longer shock on the front....
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...shocktower.htm

here is some of the strong points and weak points of a Dana 35(scroll down a bit) and some upgrades to it....
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...ont_Axles.html

i would put in a locker and some manual hubs......then i would replace ALL my ball joints with MOOG lifetime parts......then take it to someplace that will give you a good alignment......make them align it with you in the drivers seat because if they dont it will be out of alignment with you behind the wheel.....
ok well about replacing the u-joints in the half shafts? the joints that are just before the spindle, on mine its welded there ?? how am i supposed to get em out?
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  #30  
Old 11-26-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackbetty
ok well about replacing the u-joints in the half shafts? the joints that are just before the spindle, on mine its welded there ?? how am i supposed to get em out?
welded? wow! the only way i can think of besides grinding off the weld would be to just replace the shaft itself.......
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  #31  
Old 11-26-2006
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Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
also to check to see if your ball joints are good or bad......with the tire on grab the top and the bottom at the same time........try to pick up on the bottom of the tire....if it has any movement in and out then your ball joints need replacing......

also make sure your tie rod end grease boots are not busted....if they are busted, then they are not holding grease.....

remember to install your drop pitman arm with the lift kit or your steering will be horrible....

also change out your wheel bearings......there are 2 on both sides......change the bearings and the outer races at the same time! bigger tires are wheel bearing killers....when you change them out, get Timken bearings....they are the best...

get yourself a steering stabilizer from Skyjacker....they make a dual stabilizer that is nice.......

if you have the $450 to spend, i would recommend the Superlift SuperRunner steering setup.........that is a picture of the SuperRunner setup.......

if you have any more questions, feel free to ask...

and also a drop pitman arm came in the kit...:D would it be better to go dual stabilizers? im gonna run 35 mickey t's baja claws, and im gonna re-gear to 4:88, do i need anything else?
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  #32  
Old 11-26-2006
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Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
welded? wow! the only way i can think of besides grinding off the weld would be to just replace the shaft itself.......


thats the passenger side^^


thats the drivers side one^^

the fluid is form the brakes when i disconnected the lines :P

and would it be better to have a beefy straight driveshaft from the t-case to the rear end? or would it be better to get a beefier slip shaft?

Last edited by blackbetty; 11-26-2006 at 09:48 PM.
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  #33  
Old 11-26-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackbetty
and also a drop pitman arm came in the kit...:D would it be better to go dual stabilizers? im gonna run 35 mickey t's baja claws, and im gonna re-gear to 4:88, do i need anything else?
if you are just going with a 6" suspension lift and plan to run 35's you will either have to cut up the fenders pretty good or install a body lift also.....look at my avatar.....i have a 6" suspension and 3" body and i am running 35's.......

what engine do you have? if you have the 4.0, then 4.56's are more than enough for 35's......if you have the 3.0, then i would go with 5.13's...

what are your stock gear ratio's and stock tire size?

some company just came out with the 4.88's for the TTB Dana 35 not that long ago(they have had them for the newer '98+ style front suspension for a long time)...........they are almost twice the price of 4.56's.....with my 35's and 4.56's i am getting 16.5mpg on the highway and 15 in the city.....and have more than enought power to burn the tires........

if you plan on running anything bigger than a 33" tire, then you should go to the dual steering stabilizer.....
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  #34  
Old 11-26-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackbetty

thats the passenger side^^


thats the drivers side one^^
that isn't welded.....that is just rust.....they are pressed into the rings......
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  #35  
Old 11-26-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
if you are just going with a 6" suspension lift and plan to run 35's you will either have to cut up the fenders pretty good or install a body lift also.....look at my avatar.....i have a 6" suspension and 3" body and i am running 35's.......

what engine do you have? if you have the 4.0, then 4.56's are more than enough for 35's......if you have the 3.0, then i would go with 5.13's...

what are your stock gear ratio's and stock tire size?

some company just came out with the 4.88's for the TTB Dana 35 not that long ago(they have had them for the newer '98+ style front suspension for a long time)...........they are almost twice the price of 4.56's.....with my 35's and 4.56's i am getting 16.5mpg on the highway and 15 in the city.....and have more than enought power to burn the tires........

if you plan on running anything bigger than a 33" tire, then you should go to the dual steering stabilizer.....
i already have a 3inch body lift :P, so then i should clear fine? i have the 4.0 engine wit a 5speed tranny, stock ratios are 3.73 and tire size are 28" tires or 235/75/15
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  #36  
Old 11-26-2006
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Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
that isn't welded.....that is just rust.....they are pressed into the rings......

oh my bad, i guess with all the rust it looks like it was welded so it got my head spinning when you said to press em out.
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  #37  
Old 11-26-2006
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alright....use this formula to find your new gear ratio with the new tires....

new tire size/old tire size x stock gear ratio = new gear ratio

so for you it would be:

35/28 x 3.73 = 4.66......

but since you have the same setup as i do except for the manual tranny, i would definately go with the 4.56's......anything more and you will have to stop at every gas station........the 4.88's are pretty hard to find for our TTB, alough they do exist.........

4.56's and a manual tranny and you will have no problem with power.......i have more power with the 35's and 4.56's than i ever did with my 31x10.5x15 stockers and 3.73 stock gears........

yea since you already have a body lift, you will clear 35's just fine....
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  #38  
Old 11-26-2006
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Originally Posted by blackbetty
oh my bad, i guess with all the rust it looks like it was welded so it got my head spinning when you said to press em out.
yea rust can get caked in there and look like a weld.........on something like that unless someone welded them in after they bought the truck(which would be the DUMBEST thing in the world to do because they go bad!) they are not welded in........just change those u-joints when you change gears since you have to take out the axle shafts then anyways!
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  #39  
Old 11-26-2006
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Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
yea rust can get caked in there and look like a weld.........on something like that unless someone welded them in after they bought the truck(which would be the DUMBEST thing in the world to do because they go bad!) they are not welded in........just change those u-joints when you change gears since you have to take out the axle shafts then anyways!

alright, cool....how hard would it be to swap gears? cuz im a pretty hands on guy and know a lot about cars and stuff, i had to replace my rear axle cuz i snapped it off, thats another story for another time...lol so its not new to me, my only concern is when putting new gears in would i have to re-shim everything, and check backlash? cuz if so then im sol cuz i dont have the tools to do it and i dont wanna fuc* ne thing up. and about driveshafts is it etter to get a beefier slip shaft? or a solid one? cuz i wanna change the shafts while im under there.

Last edited by blackbetty; 11-27-2006 at 10:36 AM.
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  #40  
Old 11-27-2006
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hey im back..
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  #41  
Old 11-27-2006
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the stock rear drive shaft should be swapped out if you have a supercab......the '97 and older supercabs have a 2 peice driveshaft which will have vibrations in it with a 6" lift.....you will want to go to a '98+ supercab 4x4 driveshaft....it is a direct bolt in....

if you have a regular cab ranger, then the driveshaft you have is more than enough....
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  #42  
Old 11-27-2006
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Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
the stock rear drive shaft should be swapped out if you have a supercab......the '97 and older supercabs have a 2 peice driveshaft which will have vibrations in it with a 6" lift.....you will want to go to a '98+ supercab 4x4 driveshaft....it is a direct bolt in....

if you have a regular cab ranger, then the driveshaft you have is more than enough....

its an extened cab, so is the shaft from the 98+ one piece?
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  #43  
Old 11-27-2006
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yea the shaft from a '98+ Ranger extended cab 4x4 is a 1 piece........the only thing you will have to do is either remove the carrier bearing crossmember or notch it....i took mine out completely since it isn't a structural piece of the frame...
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  #44  
Old 11-27-2006
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yea the shaft from a '98+ Ranger extended cab 4x4 is a 1 piece........the only thing you will have to do is either remove the carrier bearing crossmember or notch it....i took mine out completely since it isn't a structural piece of the frame...

two busted hands up later, dirt in the eyes and A LOT of cussing i got friggin drop bracket out!!!!! i can definatly see why a shop would charge so much.

heres some pics of the progress...


you can see the difference in size of the drop brackets....

thats the old drop bracket i had to hack it in order to get some space in there for the grinder

how do you like my old radius arm bushings?....lol

ok sweet....and if theres no use for the carrier bearing member then ill jus rip it out when i put the new shaft in, and how much am i lookin at spendin for the shaft?

Last edited by blackbetty; 11-27-2006 at 09:58 PM.
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  #45  
Old 11-27-2006
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looks good....if you have a 4.0 in your supercab, from experence i would move the axle beams up to the top hole in the mounting brackets.....it will make it A LOT easier to align..........the rule of thumb is that the axle beam ends need to be at the center of the wheel when it is on flat level ground.........

also hopefully you remembered to put thread locker on those bracket bolts and tighten them down good! also remember to check and make sure they are tight about 500 miles after you get the lift done......

i paid $30 for mine and gave the junk yard my old shaft.......that was a rare price thought i believe....most people are paying any were from $50-$150 for them.....

post up pics of your whole truck...i want to see it...
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  #46  
Old 11-27-2006
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Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
looks good....if you have a 4.0 in your supercab, from experence i would move the axle beams up to the top hole in the mounting brackets.....it will make it A LOT easier to align..........the rule of thumb is that the axle beam ends need to be at the center of the wheel when it is on flat level ground.........

also hopefully you remembered to put thread locker on those bracket bolts and tighten them down good! also remember to check and make sure they are tight about 500 miles after you get the lift done......

i paid $30 for mine and gave the junk yard my old shaft.......that was a rare price thought i believe....most people are paying any were from $50-$150 for them.....

post up pics of your whole truck...i want to see it...

yea its a 4.0 and no i havent forgotten bout the thread lock..lol theyre just temporarly in place, and as for the beam bolt it shows in the instructions to put it in the bottom hole...?





thats all i have so far ill get some more up tommorrow
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  #47  
Old 11-28-2006
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hey would you know the size socket to remove the nut off the pitman arm??
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  #48  
Old 11-28-2006
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not a clue......sorry man.......you will need a pitman arm puller to get that dude off the
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  #49  
Old 11-28-2006
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not a clue......sorry man.......you will need a pitman arm puller to get that dude off the
yea i have the puller but i dont have the right size socket......FUC* this sucks
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  #50  
Old 11-28-2006
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yea it is a pain......
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