Add-a-leaf springs and torsion bar cranking and repositioned keys do not change the stock suspension travel, they just reposition the static ride height within that travel. You need stock length replacement shocks.




The shocks are the rebound travel limiters in the front. As the torsion bars are cranked to raise the ride height, the shocks will top out more often than before. When cranked to the extreme, they can begin topping out most of the time and that's what causes the harsh, bouncy ride.

 

are you 100% positive? if so maybe I could get jackit to pay for shipping for the return because they told me to get the extended ones, will tey harm anything should I even worry about it or do i need to send them back?

 

that makes sense. i would just send them back and get stock height. if you are going to do suck a small lift and you are upgrading your shocks, only go a half inch or so, 2" is quite alot. but hey, making little mistakes like this is part of learning.

 

well i have been told that a bouncy ride means your shocks are wore out, i have been told that by numerous people. when you hit the top of your shock, its not really bouncy, just the suspension kinda stops. idk, thats maybe what you have experienced so idk

 

I'd have to agree with brian, on the stock front suspension cranking you t-bars is just changing your ride height. If you put longer shocks up front you run a huge risk of binding your CVs and over extending your ball joints. unless you run a limiting strap. Now for the rear your ok with a longer shock, you just need to make sure your brake lines have enough slack so you dont tear one when your flexing out on the trail.

 

Longer shocks will not stop the suspension from over extending. On an otherwise stock torsion bar 4x4 Ranger, that can lead to binding CV's, damaged ball joints and the upper A-arms hitting the frame. On compression, longer than stock shocks will probably bottom internally before the lower A-arm hits the bump stop which is not at all good for the shock. You need stock replacements.

 

Worn shocks do allow a poorly controlled ride that could be described as "bouncy".

I was talking about the harsh ride caused by topping shocks and reused the OP's description as "bouncy". Anyone who has cranked the torsion bars all the way up or installed reindexed torsion keys will have experienced this effect; lowering the truck back to stock makes it go away.

 

yeah i dont have torsion bars, and im kinda happy i dont

 

shocks dont streach... if you sitting at the top or bottom of the stroke... like cranking your t bars, the are basically topping out alot. causes you to prematurely kill your shocks. over time seals and internal stops wear and die out.

so yes your shocks may be bad. but here is the question. the shocks you orderd... are the a 2 inch longer stroke... it wont hurt it but you will rub or bottom some were before the shox hit the differnt dampening spot.

one of my buddys has some 10inch fox's with hoops and has costom done a arms 5 over and the only thing that rubbs is his tire on the fender... 16"+ front travel. and before his arms were done he had about 10 or 12. with 4x4. still no rub.

basically in a nut shell it probly wont be that harmfull if you have longer shocks. but with aal's your gonna looked raked in the front again. your rears should be fine cus factorys are dang long any how


oh this is all in my opinion...personally.

 

You dont need longer shocks with a tbar crank. I did with a spindle lift cause my stock ones were maxed out.

 

u cant have longer shocks in the front with out limit straps...ur shocks are the only thing stoping ur lca from dropping really far....go jack up the front of ur truck so the front tires are about 3-4 inches off the ground...not pull the top nut on ur shock on one side...watch the front suspension drop on that side as u loosen the nut...now when u pull it off it will drop and good 2-3 inches....u shock was the only thing stopping that...try to spin ur cv shaft of that side..u cant its all bined up...so spin the other side..it spin freely. so basically if u put on the longer shocks the first time u bounce up and the suspension goes down (since ur spindle and not hubs) ur tires will try to spin the cv shaft and it wont want to cause its all bind up and u will break ****...not good...now u can keep those long shocks as long as they will compress enough and not stop b4 ur lca hits the bump stop and as long as u buy/make limit straps...a strap tied between the lca and the frame that stops the suspension from going down to far...but im guessing the 2" longer ones wont compress enough to be used....hope this helps

 

I thought that with a tbar crank nothings hitting the bump stops anyways, right?

 

ok, I just talked to jackit, their sending me stock length shocks for the front, and 2" longer for the rear because of the aal.

 

It doesn't matter whether the bars are cranked or not. The lower a-arm will hit the rubber bump stop on full compression. When fully extended, it's the shocks that stop suspension movement.

 

ok I need to read up on tbar suspension, thanks for all the help!