Lowering my ranger
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Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Tecumseh, Ontario
Lowering my ranger
Alright well, i just picked up a 2001 3.0 Ford ranger edge regular cab.
Wanted to knwo how much it'll cost me to lower her.
I was thinking 3/4 4/5 but no lower since i wanna be safe as a daily driver. And my schools got the biggest speed bumps ive ever witnessed in my life.
Any suggestions? Anyway of lowering it without spending the 600$ for the kit? Im pretty handy with building and welding curious to know if any of that can help me?
Thanks guys
Wanted to knwo how much it'll cost me to lower her.
I was thinking 3/4 4/5 but no lower since i wanna be safe as a daily driver. And my schools got the biggest speed bumps ive ever witnessed in my life.
Any suggestions? Anyway of lowering it without spending the 600$ for the kit? Im pretty handy with building and welding curious to know if any of that can help me?
Thanks guys
You bought the wrong truck to lower. Due to the torsion bar suspension of the Edges when you lower them it makes you run thru ball joints like no ones business. Honestly, I would just lower the torsion bars down some and take out the 2" block on top of the axle and be done with it.
1 way to lower it is undo the t-bar adjustment bolt and take out the rear block.. it will give you about a 2 inch drop.
2. ive seen someone in cali actually fab up a coilover for the front end (much like an rcd lift for our trucks). its costly and youd probably be better off getting a coil sprung truck to start with lol
2. ive seen someone in cali actually fab up a coilover for the front end (much like an rcd lift for our trucks). its costly and youd probably be better off getting a coil sprung truck to start with lol
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Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Tecumseh, Ontario
Well a 2 inch drop seems good enough for me at this point. Seems like it wont cost anything either. If i adjust my torsion bar will my allignment or anything get put out of place?? And is it simple to do? Not familiar with this whole torsion bar design.
thanks so far for the info guys!
thanks so far for the info guys!
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I had a set of re-indexed torsion keys made 3 years ago. Since then I have gone through 8 SETS of upper control arms. They last for all of 6 months at best. Lowers are cheap and easy to do so I didn't run a tally on those.
Your suspension will SUK! You WILL have bump-steer when you hit a pot-hole and finding shocks that don't ' blow out ' from being compressed all the time is another issue unto itself.
Theres 3 solutions to what you are thinking of doing and NONE are under 1000$, let alone the ' cheap ' price of 600$ you were trying to get under in the first place. Doing things CORRECTLY is NEVER cheap.
*Nobody* wants to see you post a thread saying ' It broke and I was in the hospital and I took out a few people that were on the sidewalk when it all fell apart.. '.
1.) Find an xlt in the boneyards, take out the lower control arms, spindles.. Basically the whole suspension setup and graft it on to your current frame. It will require you cutting and welding on a location/connection point 1-7/8" forward on the rearward lower arm locations on BOTH sides AND fabbing up a coil bucket to be used with the XLT suspension.
2.) Purchase a set of QA1's and fabricate onto your present shock mount locations and use the QA1's coil-over instead of a shock/torsion bar combo. You will want 750lb rated springs and the length will be determined on how far you wish to lower your truck.
3.) Easiest route : Trade in what you have and get an XLT.
My BIGGEST issue with lowering/dropping an ' Edge ' or torsion suspension : Crossmember in front hits things.
The engine crossmember sits VERY low to the ground and has the rack and pinion right on the front of it to smack into everything.
I sit about 2 inches lower then a Factory XLT with a 27.5 inch tall tire.
Last edited by D.; Jul 28, 2008 at 05:58 PM.
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