Poor Man's lift? - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Suspension Tech General discussion of suspension for the Ford Ranger.

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  #26  
Old 11-03-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ibanez270dx
Why don't you just get really wide tires with an aggressive tread? I've seen one on cardomain that looks freakn awesome... Its got BFG M/Ts that are 31x12.50x15R. All he has is the torsion crank.... and here it is!

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2090552
I don't really like wide tires that aren't tall. Looks goofy to me, but that's just MY opinion.

I don't plan on doing any hardcore offroading either. As in, doing jumps or anything close to the picture there. Mud + Dirt + Water = Good. Air = Bad.

What happens to the T-bars when they are cranked full out? Or what is a little way to be safe?

And people, unless you find me a suspension lift for under a grand it isn't happening. Don't say keep saving. I spend money now as I live and put half away for my college. I'm not going to save a grand aside from college + other things (need new tires as well). And as I said above, I'm going for pharmacy. With the scholorships I have and am hoping to get It's still going to eat at least 30k into my wallet. So if I can do cheap mans lift over a 2.5 grand suspension and it will still get me 3-4 incheas safe I'll do it.

Not trying to chew anyone out here. Just put yourself in my position.
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  #27  
Old 11-03-2005
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90% of us are all in the same place as u. if u cant save your money now u will never be able to in the future. i guarentee u buy something everyday that u dont really need we all do it, obivously u really dont want a lift that bad otherwise you would be saving for it right now.
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  #28  
Old 11-03-2005
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The T-Bars are a touchy subject.. technically one of mine is fully cranked! I only wanted to level the front out, but at about 1" up, one of the bolts was all the way in! I suspect that the strength of the bars that your truck came with (mine has I think the 2nd softest available) determine how much height you can get out of them, but I wouldn't feel safe raising the front more than ~1" with the bars, unless you get a re-indexed key, and even then its going to be a tire-wear and handling liability.

If I were hellboound on lifting on a budget, I'd get the PA 3" bodylift, no doubt. If me, Q, Bryan(Shalafi49), Billy(Gatorblue92), and a few others can do it in a day (in pouring rain, with the truck on dirt/sand) pretty much anybody can figure it out. If we'd have kept reading the directions when it came to lifting the cab, it would have gone even faster.
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  #29  
Old 11-04-2005
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Originally Posted by zabeard
90% of us are all in the same place as u. if u cant save your money now u will never be able to in the future. i guarentee u buy something everyday that u dont really need we all do it, obivously u really dont want a lift that bad otherwise you would be saving for it right now.
I can save money. I've saved 7 grand over the past year and a half and that's part time. Could I buy the lift, yes. Will I spend that much on something no. Sure I buy things I don't need. Movie tickets, concert tickets, GF presents and subway but that isn't the point dude.

I'm trying to ask simple questions that everyone always talks about. I've seen so much wishy washy info on cranking the T-bars and fitting bigger tires.

Wowak, how can I find the strength of the bars? Is it listed somewhere on the door or it actually on the bar. Thanks for the info too...
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  #30  
Old 11-04-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LilFord4x4
Wowak, how can I find the strength of the bars? Is it listed somewhere on the door or it actually on the bar. Thanks for the info too...

Seconded! I'd like to know, just because, what they are...
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  #31  
Old 11-04-2005
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i think it is all the point fella. u want a lift right? cut out some unesseccary items then. make ur gal pay sometimes or go dutch. instead of going to the movies, get one and watch at home. dont eat out as much.

it sounds like u dont want a real lift all that bad now. set ur priorities and decide what u really want. i know when i want sometime expensive i do without other items so i can save a few $$ here and there for it.
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  #32  
Old 11-04-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Morph
Quote:
Originally Posted by LilFord4x4
Wowak, how can I find the strength of the bars? Is it listed somewhere on the door or it actually on the bar. Thanks for the info too...
Seconded! I'd like to know, just because, what they are...
Read the first number of the spring code on your truck's door jamb label (on the latest Rangers, the number is doubled like "11" or BB" but the idea is the same).

Spring rates by torsion bar code:

<-higher lower->
1 2 B D E F K L

Level II's and most other current 4x4 supercabs have #1 bars. Lighter trucks like 4x2's have lower rate bars. Many earlier 4x4s have lighter bars than the #1's.


[NOTE: don't try to use this torsion bar scale for the rear suspension. It has its own and it's completely different.]
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  #33  
Old 11-04-2005
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Ok, for those of you helping please ignore this...

I came in here asking if what my friend did was okay to do. No where did I say I wanted a suspension lift/body liift any lift for that matter. I asked if the tbars could be cranked and from all the mixed garbled searching I found out that it is not ok to do.

The main reason I was asking, if you actually take time to read what I've been saying instead of the rambles of others, is that I want to be able to fit on 33's. I have to get new tires and BFG's in 285/75/16 are only 15 bucks more a piece than 245/75/16 at the local ma and pa shop. Maybe I should highlight that because I'm sick of asking a question and having people flame me for not doing something right. A simple "No" would have been enough.

All this adding and offtracking is what is pissing me the Hell off. I asked one question, is it ok. Not is it ok and if not give me suggestions. I tried planning a Suspension lift before, not gonna happen So please people, stop lecturing me about saving money and spending wisely. I got a grille guard, exhaust, Intake all within a 6 month span totaling about 1 grand without cutting those things I like out. But again, I can't justify buying a suspension lift of that nature when in reality I don't need it or won't have use of it.

Grille guard I have use as it saves my *** in the woods when we are setting up hunting stands and clearing the woods (have to clear out about 600 trees in help of the DNR). I'd have gone through 3-4 front lights without it.

Exhaust = my fun along with the K&N. totalled about 500 and had to get a new exhaust anyways because the old one had a weak point that was ready to break.

Again, sorry to those helping me. But for those that feel the need to try to sway me in a direction I don't want to go read my main question here:


IS IT OKAY FOR ME TO CRANK THE T-BARS AND MAYBE ADD A BLOCK TO THE BACK TO FIT IN 33'S?
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  #34  
Old 11-04-2005
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boo hoo, get over it. we are helping u. do it right or dont do it at all is what we are saying.

learn to take a little critizism.

want an answer? do whatever u want because its ur truck. happy? crank the bars two turns and add a leaf in the rear and get the 285/75/16s
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  #35  
Old 11-04-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwenzing
Read the first number of the spring code on your truck's door jamb label (on the latest Rangers, the number is doubled like "11" or BB" but the idea is the same).

Spring rates by torsion bar code:

<-higher lower->
1 2 B D E F K L

Level II's and most other current 4x4 supercabs have #1 bars. Lighter trucks like 4x2's have lower rate bars. Many earlier 4x4s have lighter bars than the #1's.


[NOTE: don't try to use this torsion bar scale for the rear suspension. It has its own and it's completely different.]

It says "1K". So ignoring the scale for the rear that means I have 1's up front still correct? So would it be possible to give them a boost?

Thanks for the info on that too. I think we need to make a sticky of your information Bob.
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  #36  
Old 11-04-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by optikal illushun

want an answer? do whatever u want because its ur truck. happy? crank the bars two turns and add a leaf in the rear and get the 285/75/16s

That's what I'm looking for but again, my question, is it safe.
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  #37  
Old 11-04-2005
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safe? for the most part. i have read stories about ball joints being eaten alive by cranking them all the way. a few turns will put minor stress on them but not enough to cause catstrophic failure, from what i gathered.

try to fit the 285/75s stock. my gals 04 edge has em with no trimming and no cranking. if not trim the inner most part of the rear of the front flares and valance if ur not wanting to crank teh bars.
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  #38  
Old 11-04-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LilFord4x4
It says "1K". So ignoring the scale for the rear that means I have 1's up front still correct? So would it be possible to give them a boost?
Yes, you have the strongest rate Ranger bars. You can crank them if it suits you. Just be aware that cranking them up doesn't change whether the tires can rub or not. The wheel/tire moves through exactly the same available wheel travel regardless of where the torsion bars are adjusted at rest.
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  #39  
Old 11-04-2005
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doesnt cranking them reduce down-travel, but increase up-travel?
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  #40  
Old 11-04-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by optikal illushun
doesnt cranking them reduce down-travel, but increase up-travel?
The jounce travel is limited at the bottom by the bump stop and rebound travel is limited by the maximum shock absorber extension. As long as those limits stay the same, the total travel is always the same. When the torsion bars are adjusted, it just changes the static equilibrium position within that travel. The actual travel doesn't change at all.

Obviously, the available movement from the rest position to fully topped out is reduced when truck is raised. This is what makes the ride harsher and causes additional ball joint wear and possible shock absorber damage.

Similarly, the distance from the rest position to the fully bottomed position becomes greater as the torsion bar is cranked up. This means that the torsion bar will see a greater angle of deflection if fully bottomed, resulting in premature sacking of the bar.
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  #41  
Old 11-04-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranger1
Are you saying a body lift can be done in 6 hours ? maybe with 10 people doing it. The 2 I did took over 20 hours each.

edit: well the first one if you consider a learning curve it would have taken less time, the 2nd was also installing vent tube extensions, gap guards, t-bar crank and AAL. 6 hours provided everything goes absolutly perfect.
lol i still dont know why it took you so long.

i started mine at 5PM after work, was done by 1AM that night. then drove it to work the next day. ive never done anything like this before and i only had one other person helping.
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  #42  
Old 11-04-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LilFord4x4
But again, I can't justify buying a suspension lift of that nature when in reality I don't need it or won't have use of it.

that statement right there tells me you need to just put 245/75/16 or 265/75/16 on and not worry about lifting it at all.... because obviously you...

Quote:
don't need it or won't have use of it.
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  #43  
Old 11-04-2005
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Quote:
Originally Posted by LilFord4x4
I have to get new tires and BFG's in 285/75/16 are only 15 bucks more a piece than 245/75/16 at the local ma and pa shop.
I'll probably just try to find some 265/75/16 somewhere else for as good of a price. Oh the joys of shopping . Odd because at the store the prices are:

245/75/16 - 128 each
265 " - 159 each
285 " - 143 each
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