Replacing torsion bar bolts - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Suspension Tech General discussion of suspension for the Ford Ranger.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 04-18-2007
0RangerEdge2's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,593
Replacing torsion bar bolts

Ok, I know where they are located and how to get them out. How exactly should I go about it? Take all the pressure off the side that I'm replacing? So full droop on that side and then take the old out and new in? Or do I need to put some kind of clamp on the torsion key so that it countinues to have pressure?
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 04-18-2007
zabeard's Avatar
who?
iTrader: (8)
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: IN
Posts: 26,045
you need to use a 2 arm puller. I use my 3 arm puller but only put 2 of the arms on it. put the puller in the notch that is on the torsion bar key. then tighten that puller and remove the bolt.

can i ask why you are doing this?
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 04-19-2007
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Lehi, Utah
Posts: 731
If you're in a pinch and don't have a puller, you can canabolize a 6" C-clamp. Just tear off the swivel base so there is just the ball left. Then put the ball in the Torsion Key notch, and crank away to tighten the C-clamp to take load off the bar.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 04-19-2007
whiteo5xlt's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: wilmington ma
Posts: 279
i dont think he is replacing the key or anything just the bolt. i would just jack it up and unscrew it all the way out and put a new bolt in
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 04-20-2007
0RangerEdge2's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,593
I don't understand why what whiteo5xlt said wouldn't work. I'm just replacing the bolt that keeps tension on it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by zabeard
can i ask why you are doing this?
One of the heads is rounded off so I can't do the torsion crank. Makes me wonder what the previous owner was doing down there.

But anyways I don't know why letting the suspension go full droop and then taking the bolt out wouldn't work, but then again I don't know much.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 04-20-2007
0RangerEdge2's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,593
I guess I forgot, where exactly is this notch? I mean I could probably find it but it'd be easier if someone had a picture or something. Thank you.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 04-20-2007
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Lehi, Utah
Posts: 731
Look at the bottom of the Key, there is a dimple in the Key, that is the notch.


I was just suggesting loading the bar first because it takes ALL load off the bolt and makes it easier to break loose, especially if its rounded and or corroded.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 04-20-2007
zabeard's Avatar
who?
iTrader: (8)
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: IN
Posts: 26,045
remove the cover. 13mm bolts... 4 of them then you will see it.

BTW going full droop will not help, this is how we messed the threads up on the nut/piece

You really need to get the tension off.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 04-20-2007
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 561
I'm unsure why you need the puller. I replaced one of mine by jacking the front up to unload the bar. Removed the bent bolt and put in a new one.

Edit posted at the same time. I see why if you striped the nut. Mine worked out ok without it
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 04-20-2007
zabeard's Avatar
who?
iTrader: (8)
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: IN
Posts: 26,045
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cape Fear
I'm unsure why you need the puller. I replaced one of mine by jacking the front up to unload the bar. Removed the bent bolt and put in a new one.

Edit posted at the same time. I see why if you striped the nut. Mine worked out ok without it

It can be done the other way BUT the chance of stripping the bolt or nut when taking it out or putting it in is greater.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 04-20-2007
0RangerEdge2's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,593
Ok I'm going to use the gear puller. Autozone should have one to rent right? And as far as pb blaster or wd-40, do you think I should use it to aid in the removal of the bolt?
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 04-20-2007
UNCCRang49's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Apex, NC
Posts: 328
yea. if im not mistaking they have it for rent for like $25 or so. but dont hold me to the cost, its been a while. pb blaster would defintely help out if the bolts seized up in there.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 04-20-2007
zabeard's Avatar
who?
iTrader: (8)
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: IN
Posts: 26,045
Quote:
Originally Posted by 0RangerEdge2
Ok I'm going to use the gear puller. Autozone should have one to rent right? And as far as pb blaster or wd-40, do you think I should use it to aid in the removal of the bolt?

I would not, you want that new bolt to go in nice and tight!
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 04-20-2007
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Lehi, Utah
Posts: 731
Our auto parts stores out here (checkers) does not carry the proper tool, but they carry pullers.

Last edited by D94R; 04-20-2007 at 01:34 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 04-20-2007
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Spokane, Wa
Posts: 146
I would remove pressure from the bolt before moving it, it will save the bolts from being striped. If ur super cheep like me, u can get a C-clamp from a yard sale or a discount hareware place, i got one for 4$ from harbor feight, cheep POS from china, and i ground off the piviting part to reveal the round ball at the end of the treaded part of the C-clamp. there is a lil spot for the ball part to go into. it will more then likely mess up the clamp, i just threw it away when i was done, but i did it like 6 times working on my IFS lift....

good luck, and if u do find out what the bolts are for sure, (like thread and stuff) let me know, i need to replace mine.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 04-20-2007
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Lehi, Utah
Posts: 731
In not so many words

Quote:
If you're in a pinch and don't have a puller, you can canabolize a 6" C-clamp. Just tear off the swivel base so there is just the ball left. Then put the ball in the Torsion Key notch, and crank away to tighten the C-clamp to take load off the bar.

But yes, this works just as well if you don't have the right tool.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 04-20-2007
0RangerEdge2's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,593
Well I bought a puller like Zach has. So no pb blaster to make sure the new bolt goes in good? What if I clean up the "nut" before I put the new bolt in? I just don't want to have a hard time getting the old one out. What about heat too? Should I heat it to help get it out?
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 04-21-2007
whiteo5xlt's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: wilmington ma
Posts: 279
yea just heat it it will come out like butter. I dont know why you need a puller i just changed my t-bars to level one from my Bs and i jacked up the front and heated to bolt and took the bolt out completely it cam eout so easy. But i needed a puller to remove the key to change bar but your just changing the bolts do whatever you want. The only reason i think for using this puller in your instance is to keep the t-bars from moving and holding them where they are so they dont come down.
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 04-22-2007
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Lehi, Utah
Posts: 731
You had to use a puller to get the key off the bar? Odd, mine came off with the slight wack of a hammer.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 04-22-2007
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Tucson
Posts: 525
Quote:
Originally Posted by D94R
You had to use a puller to get the key off the bar? Odd, mine came off with the slight wack of a hammer.
I dont think thats what he meant...the puller has nothing to do with removing the key from the end of the t-bar....
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 04-23-2007
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Lehi, Utah
Posts: 731
I know.... I are confuzed.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Torsion bar bolts broken GreyOwl Suspension Tech 0 07-20-2014 10:25 PM
Torsion bar bolts? Jayy Suspension Tech 7 11-20-2013 12:28 AM
Torsion bar bolts mj550 Suspension Tech 4 11-14-2010 09:26 PM
Uneven torsion bar adjustment bolts meathead General Ford Ranger Discussion 5 02-23-2010 12:14 PM
Torsion bar bolts question MotoX Suspension Tech 7 11-26-2005 08:56 PM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:21 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.