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Suspension Tech General discussion of suspension for the Ford Ranger.

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  #1  
Old 08-18-2008
cory07ranger4x4's Avatar
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sas questions.. lol

I know there are tons of threads but I just need a few questions answered and everyone has something different and different goals. I have an 07' ranger 4x4 on 35's rightnow but am wanting to sas it for strength and other reasons. I am not sure if I want to either get a narrow d44 or a full width 44? I could either do a narrow 44 with an explorer rearend or full width and maybe use wheel spacers/adaptors for 5x5.5 lug and the extra width in the back to match the full width front. Your opinions? I have a 3" bodylift that will be staying on but if I want to put on 36x13.50x15 Irok's which are actually a little bit taller than the irok 37" tire, (so let's say i'm running a 37x13.50 tire) what would be the best way to make the tires clear well? I was thinking my 3" bl with 6" toyota allpro leafs and 63" chevy springs but not sure if I will be too much clearance? Will it make the tires look way too small? I will be running either arb's front and rear or aussie's depending on howmuch money I have left after the sas. I might want to eventually go to a 37x14 or 38x14 tire so would like to have a little extra clearance for those. I do a little bit of trails but mostly go in deep deep snow all of the time so that gives you an idea what i'm going to be doing with it. It will be my DD but i'm fine with that set-up for my daily so please don't try to talk me out of it. I hardly ever drive further than 20 miles. So I want quite a bit of clearance but not tons if that makes any sense. Will I really want to have hydro assist or will the steering be fine with just the yota ifs steering box? Here's some of the parts I need... Just a quick list. Please let me know what i'm forgetting. (I know prolly a lot.)

Also, 4:56 or 4:88 for a DD/snow wheeler? I don't want to go too low but want it to be somewhat low in 4wd low.

d44 out of waggy
6" allpro leafs
63" chevy springs for rear
31 spline 8.8 disk brake
tires and wheels
lockers
gears
wheel spacers/adapters for rear
not sure about driveshafts??
yota steering box
shocks
whatelse???

sorry for the long thread and tons of questions!
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Old 08-18-2008
08XLT4x4's Avatar
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Dude, i wanna see some pics of your truck with your current set up! Did you ever get that front locker figured out?
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Old 08-18-2008
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Axle rebuilds, front and rear, axle seals, gear oil

Front spring hangars, rear spring hangars for the front

All steering components, trac bar, drag link

front driveline, rear driveline
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Old 08-18-2008
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A daily? are you sure?

have you driven a sas'd ranger?
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Old 08-18-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zabeard View Post
A daily? are you sure?

have you driven a sas'd ranger?

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Old 08-18-2008
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hey cory, if you decide to SAS.. sell me your superlift first
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Old 08-18-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firefighterjosh View Post
i should say on 37s, my 35" setup wasnt too bad
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Old 08-18-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zabeard View Post
i should say on 37s, my 35" setup wasnt too bad
ya tire roll seems to be the bad part.
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Old 08-18-2008
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I would recommend to choose something besides the All-Pro leafs for the front with your 4.0. I havn't had the best of experience with them dealing with the weigh up front. You may want to look to Racho's replacement Wagoneer leafs, or a set of Rubicon Express leafs (which are meant for a Jeep with inline 4.0). I don't have any links right now, but its not too difficult to find.


Quote:
Originally Posted by TrePaul86 View Post
Axle rebuilds, front and rear, axle seals, gear oil

Front spring hangars, rear spring hangars for the front

All steering components, trac bar, drag link

front driveline, rear driveline
Don't need the track bar with leafs.
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Old 08-18-2008
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If you go 4.56 and 35's....final drive ratio is HIGHER than stock...meaning....faster "crawl speeds"
If you go 4.88 and 35's....final drive ratio is LOWER than stock...meaning....slower "crawl speeds"

Since you auto..it really odn't matter. me being a clutch..i'm goin' lower.
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Old 08-18-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fx4wannabe01 View Post
If you go 4.56 and 35's....final drive ratio is HIGHER than stock...meaning....faster "crawl speeds"
If you go 4.88 and 35's....final drive ratio is LOWER than stock...meaning....slower "crawl speeds"

Since you auto..it really odn't matter. me being a clutch..i'm goin' lower.
Actually between auto and manual you're thinkin' the opposite. Someone with an auto should opt for the lower gears as it won't put that little bit more work on the trans.

A manual can get by much easier with a higher gearing (in this case the 4:56's) bcuz of the ability to shift when desired.
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Old 08-19-2008
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Don't need a trac bar... I was thinking 3 link and totally forgot... Tre = Owned lol
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Old 08-19-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2002FX4 View Post
Actually between auto and manual you're thinkin' the opposite. Someone with an auto should opt for the lower gears as it won't put that little bit more work on the trans.

A manual can get by much easier with a higher gearing (in this case the 4:56's) bcuz of the ability to shift when desired.
believe me....my truck blows right now when wheelin. i hate it. completely and utterly hate it. Ive talked to your buddy...i'm doin' 4.88's. lol.
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Old 08-19-2008
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1. idk if its been said.. but full hydro is a bad idea, besides the sensitivity.. if you blow a hose or your engine dies your screwed.. so are the car(s) your going to hit.
2) dont do wheel spacers.. please

and my buddy has the 5" all pro leaves on his Yoda and he clears 35s quite nicely. he could stuff some 37s in there.. i say use the 5 or 6" springs.. and depending on how it looks leave the body lift or take it off.

and ARBs FTW!
and 4.88s or 5.13s ftw.


your sas'ing it.. so fuel economy should be the last issue on your mind.. so gear that ***** low


that and your rear axle choice.. i would say a GM 14 bolt.. none of that 8.8 c-clip nonsense.
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Old 08-19-2008
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Corp 14bolt FTW! that's what i'm thinkin' of runnin'.
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Old 08-19-2008
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FW 44 and 60 for me next summer. I still need to have Zach make my mounts!
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Old 08-19-2008
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rear D60

do a 14 bolt, you'll never have an issue haha

i've seen a few broken.. one was because one a dumbass put the tapered bearings in backwards somehow.. so the driver (my friend) looked in his mirror to see the dullies stick out a few feet.. all i got to see was a 1 ton chevy on stands, a disassembled hub ona 14bolt.. and a sheared off shaft

on a trail rig you need some serious power and rubber to break one though, they're rated at something like 6,000 ft/lbs of torque
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Old 08-19-2008
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How will a 60?
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Old 08-19-2008
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idk im just talkin shizat

im partial to a 14 bolt.. there's no way our trucks should break either
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Old 08-19-2008
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Ah... I see I see. lol

I still stand at Front 44 and Rear 60... FW FTW!
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Old 08-19-2008
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i'll agree there. FW or go home
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Old 08-19-2008
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Unless you get the EBD44 with Disc front... and an expo rear 31-spline... That's pretty close... Something I'd run if it wasn't over $1.3k for those axles alone...
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Old 08-19-2008
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500-1200 for a HP Kingpin D60..
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Old 08-19-2008
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Not runnin that... that would be a front thing... If I ran a 60 up front for like 53's... I'd be a HPKPD60... I'll only be running 40's at max... D44 is good enough!... Might even try to find a HPD60..
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Old 08-19-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99ranger4x4 View Post

and ARBs FTW!


I like the e-lockers a little more than the ARB. Thats what im gonna put in my new axle.

The e-lockers will not suddenly unlock if the wiring is torn off, an ARB will if it loses pressure as soon as any binding is relieved. If an e-locker's motor gets damaged or fails you can remove it and manually lock it.

/thread hijack
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