How hard it is to install really? I was going to just take it to the shop and let them install it for $600+ but I was just reading it and realized that in all honesty its not a very complicated lift.. it seems very "do-able" if you know what your doing.

the only thing that even concerned me when reading it was all the seals and stuff that they said had to be removed with a certain tool or you would have to replace them.. well minor researching on autozone tells me that I can replace all of those seals even if I do break them for rather cheap. Basically if you had a nice socket set, general mechanics tools, and a torsion bar puller (planning on renting from either auto zone or my local truck shop), and a dad who has rebuilt a '64 corvette from the ground up and been doing vehicle repairs for 50 some odd years now on various vehicles he has owned, i should be good to go right?

Anything big I'm missing?

 

It's not difficult at all... I did my own over a few nights after work. You don't have any seals to remove - that's only on the older trucks with different hubs.

You don't need the torsion bar tool either... I did mine without it. If I recall correctly the most "special" tool I needed was a socket big enough to remove the big nuts on the end of the CV axles to pull them out of the hub assemblies... which I had in my toolbox anyways from doing a front bearing on my Mustang.

 

dam... thats cool as ****... saving $600+ on installation is gonna be badass and it should be fun to install.. with this in mind and the kit as a whole only costing me $1600 shipped from 4wheel parts plus $100 for new keys and probably $100 for various tools and installation stuff I might need I will probably be doing this if I had to guess.

Just for ***** and giggles how much of a difference was it before and after while sitting in the truck? does it feel like your just a little higher, 4" exactly higher, or ALOT higher?

 

+1 on not needing the torsion bar puller, a large C clamp works fine

 

You can definitely feel a difference when inside the truck. I'd say it feels a little taller than it actually is but hard to say!

 

I wouldn't even use a C-clamp. Support the lower c/a with a floor jack... then unbolt the upper c/a from the knuckle, the shock, the sway bar link and hub assembly. Once all that is removed just let the floor jack down and you can remove the bolts/keys/bars with no other tools! This is a MUCH safer way to do it! All those parts are going to have to be removed anyways!

 

Damn that sounds genius... is that what you did?

 

Yes and it worked just fine! I did the same thing in reverse to put it back together.

 

Make sure you count the threads on your T-bar bolts and mark the way the t-bars go into the control arms and keys as well as which bar goes on which side. It'll make it much easier when putting everything back together!

 

awesome man. i really appreciate all the help.

 

No worries... anything else just ask here or PM me! I put mine on two years ago but my memory is pretty good! lol

 

haha your gonna be my go-to-guy for this whole adventure... once christmas time comes around you might get flooded with PM's and such but my plan is to get everything as perfect as possible before I even take the first bolt out so that I can have the cleanest most problem free install possible. constructed a word doc right now that includes everything i need to know and what not. ALOT of what you have been saying is on that word doc lol

 

it is a good time to replace your balljoints and such while you have everything apart if everything is still original

 

I know I already planned on replacing the ball joints and any seals/bearings I run across that need replacing. Anything besides that I should replace while under there? Truck has 90k miles on it so its time to replace as much stuff as possible...

p.s. - how many ball joints are there? i'm sure i could find this out when i get under there but i want to go ahead and order all the new ball joints before i get under there. which ones do i need to get?

 

two lowers and 2 uppers which you will have to buy the complete upper control arm. I would check tie rod ends & the axle seals where the cv joint goes into the axle. I replaced both sides cause they where leaking.

I believe the axle nut is 32mm BTW. Not everyone has one of those laying around

 

you planning on getting the superlift driveshaft too?

 

As said, if you have the tools, it's not difficult at all.

 

well somebody was thinking ahead when they did theres haha, i did my tbar drop brackets last.