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Old 09-04-2011
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Superlift Install Difficulty?

How hard it is to install really? I was going to just take it to the shop and let them install it for $600+ but I was just reading it and realized that in all honesty its not a very complicated lift.. it seems very "do-able" if you know what your doing.

the only thing that even concerned me when reading it was all the seals and stuff that they said had to be removed with a certain tool or you would have to replace them.. well minor researching on autozone tells me that I can replace all of those seals even if I do break them for rather cheap. Basically if you had a nice socket set, general mechanics tools, and a torsion bar puller (planning on renting from either auto zone or my local truck shop), and a dad who has rebuilt a '64 corvette from the ground up and been doing vehicle repairs for 50 some odd years now on various vehicles he has owned, i should be good to go right?

Anything big I'm missing?
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Old 09-04-2011
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It's not difficult at all... I did my own over a few nights after work. You don't have any seals to remove - that's only on the older trucks with different hubs.

You don't need the torsion bar tool either... I did mine without it. If I recall correctly the most "special" tool I needed was a socket big enough to remove the big nuts on the end of the CV axles to pull them out of the hub assemblies... which I had in my toolbox anyways from doing a front bearing on my Mustang.
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Old 09-04-2011
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It's not difficult at all... I did my own over a few nights after work. You don't have any seals to remove - that's only on the older trucks with different hubs.

You don't need the torsion bar tool either... I did mine without it. If I recall correctly the most "special" tool I needed was a socket big enough to remove the big nuts on the end of the CV axles to pull them out of the hub assemblies... which I had in my toolbox anyways from doing a front bearing on my Mustang.
dam... thats cool as ****... saving $600+ on installation is gonna be badass and it should be fun to install.. with this in mind and the kit as a whole only costing me $1600 shipped from 4wheel parts plus $100 for new keys and probably $100 for various tools and installation stuff I might need I will probably be doing this if I had to guess.

Just for ***** and giggles how much of a difference was it before and after while sitting in the truck? does it feel like your just a little higher, 4" exactly higher, or ALOT higher?
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Old 09-04-2011
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+1 on not needing the torsion bar puller, a large C clamp works fine
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Old 09-04-2011
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Originally Posted by 2007BlackFX4 View Post
dam... thats cool as ****... saving $600+ on installation is gonna be badass and it should be fun to install.. with this in mind and the kit as a whole only costing me $1600 shipped from 4wheel parts plus $100 for new keys and probably $100 for various tools and installation stuff I might need I will probably be doing this if I had to guess.

Just for ***** and giggles how much of a difference was it before and after while sitting in the truck? does it feel like your just a little higher, 4" exactly higher, or ALOT higher?
You can definitely feel a difference when inside the truck. I'd say it feels a little taller than it actually is but hard to say!
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Old 09-04-2011
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+1 on not needing the torsion bar puller, a large C clamp works fine
I wouldn't even use a C-clamp. Support the lower c/a with a floor jack... then unbolt the upper c/a from the knuckle, the shock, the sway bar link and hub assembly. Once all that is removed just let the floor jack down and you can remove the bolts/keys/bars with no other tools! This is a MUCH safer way to do it! All those parts are going to have to be removed anyways!
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Old 09-04-2011
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I wouldn't even use a C-clamp. Support the lower c/a with a floor jack... then unbolt the upper c/a from the knuckle, the shock, the sway bar link and hub assembly. Once all that is removed just let the floor jack down and you can remove the bolts/keys/bars with no other tools! This is a MUCH safer way to do it! All those parts are going to have to be removed anyways!
Damn that sounds genius... is that what you did?
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Old 09-04-2011
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Damn that sounds genius... is that what you did?
Yes and it worked just fine! I did the same thing in reverse to put it back together.
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Old 09-04-2011
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Make sure you count the threads on your T-bar bolts and mark the way the t-bars go into the control arms and keys as well as which bar goes on which side. It'll make it much easier when putting everything back together!
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Old 09-04-2011
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Yes and it worked just fine! I did the same thing in reverse to put it back together.
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Make sure you count the threads on your T-bar bolts and mark the way the t-bars go into the control arms and keys as well as which bar goes on which side. It'll make it much easier when putting everything back together!
awesome man. i really appreciate all the help.
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Old 09-04-2011
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No worries... anything else just ask here or PM me! I put mine on two years ago but my memory is pretty good! lol
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Old 09-04-2011
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No worries... anything else just ask here or PM me! I put mine on two years ago but my memory is pretty good! lol
haha your gonna be my go-to-guy for this whole adventure... once christmas time comes around you might get flooded with PM's and such but my plan is to get everything as perfect as possible before I even take the first bolt out so that I can have the cleanest most problem free install possible. constructed a word doc right now that includes everything i need to know and what not. ALOT of what you have been saying is on that word doc lol
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Old 09-04-2011
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it is a good time to replace your balljoints and such while you have everything apart if everything is still original
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Old 09-04-2011
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it is a good time to replace your balljoints and such while you have everything apart if everything is still original
I know I already planned on replacing the ball joints and any seals/bearings I run across that need replacing. Anything besides that I should replace while under there? Truck has 90k miles on it so its time to replace as much stuff as possible...

p.s. - how many ball joints are there? i'm sure i could find this out when i get under there but i want to go ahead and order all the new ball joints before i get under there. which ones do i need to get?
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Old 09-05-2011
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two lowers and 2 uppers which you will have to buy the complete upper control arm. I would check tie rod ends & the axle seals where the cv joint goes into the axle. I replaced both sides cause they where leaking.

I believe the axle nut is 32mm BTW. Not everyone has one of those laying around
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Old 09-05-2011
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you planning on getting the superlift driveshaft too?
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Old 09-05-2011
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As said, if you have the tools, it's not difficult at all.
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Old 09-07-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FULLSCALE View Post
I wouldn't even use a C-clamp. Support the lower c/a with a floor jack... then unbolt the upper c/a from the knuckle, the shock, the sway bar link and hub assembly. Once all that is removed just let the floor jack down and you can remove the bolts/keys/bars with no other tools! This is a MUCH safer way to do it! All those parts are going to have to be removed anyways!
well somebody was thinking ahead when they did theres haha, i did my tbar drop brackets last.
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